Michelin stars, ten-cent noodles, shopping malls that gleam so bright, you might be able to see them from space—welcome to Hong Kong. Now rebounded from the pandemic and resultant tourism restrictions, the mega metropolis is in the midst of a drinking and dining renaissance. And, in between the gustatory recon, there’s some spectacular art to be seen.

While there is no shortage of opulent options in the lodging department, you’d be hard pressed to find a better place than Rosewood Hong Kong, in the city’s Kowloon district. A glossy skyscraper with panoramic views of Victoria Harbor—best enjoyed from the terrace of the Manor Club on the 40th floor, sundowner drink in hand—it contains not one, or two, but 13 bars and restaurants, several with Michelin and World’s 50 Best recognition. (The hotel itself clocked in at No. 2 on 50 Best’s inaugural ranking of Asia hotels last year.)

A recent trip to Hong Kong uncovered a trove of delicacies worth a transcontinental flight. We also consulted locals with proven palates to find out the best wine lists around town. All of the following check the box for 10 out of 10, would highly recommend: 

Highlights

Grand Majestic Sichuan

If you, like us, seek to deplane and set your mouth on fire, head straight to Grand Majestic Sichuan. Located inside the Landmark shopping mall in Hong Kong’s central business district, this clubby restaurant with crimson booths turns out pitch-perfect renditions of dishes from a southwestern province of China that go hard on the Scoville scale. Here, dandan noodles get the tableside Caesar treatment, with a tuxedo-clad waiter spicing and saucing them to your liking. The mapo dofu, studded with morsels of Angus beef and Grand Majestic’s namesake peppercorns, justifies crossing an ocean; the pork wontons in chili oil underline that there are some things you (at least, we) can’t replicate at home. Not a fan of spice? Several dishes on the menu bring no heat at all, like the prawns with cashews and fried rice with preserved cabbage. What we drank: a non-vintage Louis Brochet Héritage Brut.

Chaat

Indians make up a significant portion of Hong Kong’s non-Chinese population, and at Chaat, food from the subcontinent reigns supreme. Owing to its Michelin star, a table here is notoriously hard to get, but if you stay at Rosewood Hong Kong, which houses the restaurant, you can test the pull of the hotel concierge and (fingers crossed) come out on top. Chaat’s “Old Delhi” butter chicken will transport you from the amber-lit dining room to the thronged streets of India’s capital city; the Malabar fish curry will send you down the backwaters of Kerala with a sultry, soothing breeze at your back. What we drank: the Jeera Ar Saunf, a cumin- and fennel-flecked margarita that goes down perilously easy. 

Sham Shui Po

In the morning, power walkers and tai chi enthusiasts own the Kowloon waterfront, getting in their ambulations before window shoppers and river cruise goers pack the promenade. Logos owned by multinational conglomerates shine in the shop windows, but jump in a cab and 10 minutes later, you’ll find yourself in the workaday neighborhood of Sham Shui Po, where, at Hop Yik Tai, a plate of pillowy rice cakes drenched in a rich and nutty sesame sauce will set you back around one U.S. dollar. Should you fancy something savory, duck into Sun Heung Yuen on Kweilin Street, where the corned beef and egg sandwich has earned the joint food world-renown without the attendant price tag. What we drank: cold coffee with condensed milk at Sun Heung Yuen.  

M+

Opened in 2021, M+, Kowloon’s premier art museum, spotlights the work of 20th and 21st century Asian artists, with a taut permanent collection and intriguing exhibitions. Dark and deliciously edgy: Old People’s Home, by Sun Yuan and Peng Yu, which consists of 13 life-like sculptures of “familiar politicians, admirals, generals, bishops, and dictators. Portrayed as frail seniors, they sit dozing off and drooling in electric wheelchairs. They roll on a slow collision course, running into each other like bumper cars.” More uplifting: a wing dedicated to the compositions of Ay-O, a Japanese artist who adopted the rainbow motif in the hope of spreading “hope and positive energy.” What we drank: nothing. Even the consumption of water is prohibited inside the galleries. You can carry a bottle, just don’t swig from it.

BluHouse

An Italian emporium on the South China Sea? It’s an unlikely proposition but one that BluHouse wholeheartedly fulfills, with a deli-style counter, crescent-shaped bar, and light-filled eatery that looks out onto Victoria Harbor. BluHouse also encompasses a fancier dining room with a 500-bottle wine list, but the more casual space lends itself to tearing into a blistered, bubbling pepperoni pizza so authentic, it might have been airdropped in from Naples. What we drank: four Salty Negronis, convinced that we would never meet our Platonic ideal of a Negroni again. Thus far, the belief has held.

Your Shortlist of Great Wine Lists

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Hong Kong. “An exceptionally long wine list with more than 3,500 labels and a variety of rare offerings. The glass wine cellar that extends from the front door to the dining space showcases some of their spectacular bottles, including a 1959 Henri Jayer Richebourg and an 1834 Barbeito Malvasia Madeira.” — Lotus Leung, cultural ambassador, Rosewood Hong Kong.

Estro. “With more than 1,000 labels from around the world—old world, new world, you name it—and a staff of passionate, top-notch sommeliers, you will find a bottle that speaks to you. My husband and I recently went and cannot wait to return.” — Jonathan Frolich, managing director, Carlyle & Co.

Zau Mei Wine Bar and Terroir. “I can’t pick just one. Zau Mei Wine Bar stands out for its curated collection of wines from around the world, infused with a touch of local Cantonese characteristics. Terroir, on the other hand, offers a wide range of biodynamic, organic, and natural wines from France, which pair perfectly with their classic French plates.” — Julien Peros, area director of wine, Rosewood Hong Kong.

What Insiders Say

Breakfast

Frolich: Fuel Espresso in The Landmark. “The best coffee in the city.”

Leung: Central Restaurant in Sham Shui Po. “Low key, delicious dim sum and Chinese tea.”

Lunch

Frolich: Louise. “You must order the roasted Hong Kong yellow chicken. After just one bite, you’ll know why.”

Leung: CVIEW Restaurant. “Not only does it offer a stunning panoramic view of Victoria Harbour, it also has a delightful menu that celebrates the essence of Chinese cuisine, drawing inspiration from the flavors of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai.”

Peros: Ging Sun Ho King of Bun. “It’s a Shanghainese restaurant known for dishes like pan-fried pork soup buns and xiaolongbao [Shanghai soup dumplings]. Their pan-fried pork soup buns are incredibly delicious and comforting. There are multiple locations, and they’re all excellent.”

Dinner

Leung: Ryota Kappou Modern. “It’s a prestigious one-Michelin-star restaurant with a modern Japanese dining experience.”

Peros: L'Envol. “An exceptional restaurant that specializes in elegantly crafted French cuisine. Never fails to impress me.”

Drinks

Frolich: Bar Leone. “The founder, Lorenzo Antinori, has done a remarkable job of creating an intimate destination that serves some of the best cocktails and snacks in the city. They do a great martini and Vesper, and the olives are in a league of their own.”

Leung: Melody in Sai Ying Pun. “It’s the ideal spot for a nightcap and great live music.”