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The world’s leading whiskey makers dish on the dream bottles they can’t find.
Susannah Skiver Barton · Oct 11, 2024
There’s probably a whiskey that’s eluded you. A dream bottle you haven’t been able to track down or taste. Every whiskey drinker has a unicorn. Even, surprisingly, some of the world’s leading master distillers and blenders.
We asked whiskey makers from Kentucky, Scotland, Ireland, and beyond what bottle they most want to try. Some named whiskies from demolished distilleries; others, limited editions that have long since sold out. One distiller who’s been in the industry for decades still hasn’t been able to get his hands on Pappy Van Winkle! Somehow, that’s kind of comforting.
Unicorn Bottle: Old Prentice, distilled between 1911 and 1917
That is some of the first bourbon produced at the current Four Roses plant. I enjoy the flavors of pre-Prohibition whiskeys, and to try some from that era produced at our distillery would be especially interesting to me.
Unicorn Bottle: Coleraine 34-Year-Old
Growing up on the North Coast [of Ireland], I went to school in Coleraine and knew of the distillery that once was a major part of the town. I have lived in Coleraine since 2000 with my husband so have a connection to the town. This whiskey was distilled in 1959 and bottled in 1993, with only 400 bottles being produced. The distillery closed its doors in 1972, a few years before I was born.
Unicorn Bottle: Yamazaki 50-Year-Old
While this product is extremely rare and coveted by collectors across the globe, that is not the reason I would choose it as the product I would most like to taste. I have had the privilege of meeting Seiichi Koshimizu, chief blender emeritus of Suntory, and what I learned was the clear passion he has for the maturation process, the respect he has for the details, and the patient understanding he has of the complex influence the oak will have on the final product. He recognizes the gentle care it takes to achieve long term aging and the delicate hand it takes for blending beautiful whiskies.
This whiskey was aged for 50 years in mizunara oak, requiring a thoughtful, skillful approach to maturing, which is what piques my curiosity to see how Koshimizu-san was able to create a legacy release that will stand the test of time. Having tasted other whiskies made with Koshimizu-san’s artistry tells me that this opportunity would be one of the most memorable experiences in my whisky journey.
Unicorn Bottle: Glenmavis
I am always curious about how whisky has changed over the decades. While we can taste some of the extra-aged stocks in our Glenfiddich and Balvenie warehouses, or those released by other companies, it is fascinating to try very old bottles where the whisky hasn’t aged in a cask for all that time, but instead comes from a bygone era. When I look at the old whisky map, there were a lot of distilleries in the central belt of Scotland where I live, and they’re mostly gone now. I would love to have tasted whisky from some of them—for example, the Glenmavis Distillery. This one was pretty much on the site of where I play golf with my daughter!
Unicorn Bottle: Compass Box Tobias & The Angel
It’s a blend of Caol Ila and Clynelish. Older stocks of these were blended together and it’s apparently a wonderful marriage of peat and fruit—a marriage that can be difficult to make harmonious, in my experience. I’m all about the precision and art of the blend; at J.J. Corry we strive to bring that to the fore in Irish whiskey. It’s always about discovering parcels that may be good on their own but bringing them together makes them great, and Compass Box are the best in the biz at that. I’ve heard folks rave about this blended malt bottling but have never managed to even be in the same room as it. I’ll keep chasing.
Unicorn Bottle: Knappogue Castle 1951
It was distilled at the Tullamore Distillery in Ireland in 1951 and bottled in 1987 at 36 years old. I've heard good things about it, but it's one of the rarest Irish unicorns that might still be out there!
Unicorn Bottle: Lochside
I was fortunate to have a friend share a bottle from the shuttered scotch distillery Lochside. It was a dram I will never forget: so soft and understated, fruity in just the right ways, and had a great texture. Since they are no longer producing, it is something I look for often when traveling, hoping to find some random bottle tucked away somewhere.
Unicorn Bottle: Bowmore 1998 Fèis Ìle
The 1998 Bowmore Fèis Ìle bottling was my lightbulb moment on how peat can elevate, rather than dominate, a whisky. I’d like to revisit it to see if I still feel the same way. (Snow falling in Islay may have created some bias!)
Unicorn Bottle: Pappy Van Winkle
I have yet to try any of the range of Pappy Van Winkle. There is usually so much buzz around when a bottle is being opened at a whiskey event with long queues at the stand to taste. I really want to see what the whole excitement is about.
Is it the rarity or the taste? That’s the big question for me that I have yet to answer.
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