By now, we’re all familiar with the narrative that Lambrusco is the comeback kid. The market dominance of cheap, sickly sweet frizzante reds in the 1970s and 1980s in the U.S.—led by massive brands like Riunite—is largely to blame for Lambrusco’s formerly shitty rep. (Riunite exported so much Lambrusco that it was once the top-selling imported wine in the U.S., and—amazingly—it is still Italy’s largest wine producer by revenue.)

Today, Lambrusco is firmly past the “cheap and cheerful” days of Riunite on ice, and is now beloved for its bone-dry, crowd-pleasing red froth that pairs perfectly with pizza and meaty, saucy pastas. But it’s even moving beyond simply “dry and refreshing.” A growing cadre of artisanal producers are crafting sparkling wines of every hue with real complexity by returning to traditional practices. They’re producing wines from some of the oldest grapes native to Italy, which they’re farming organically and biodynamically. In the cellar, they’re using indigenous yeasts and making Lambrusco with both the traditional method and metodo ancestrale—which is the traditional method in Emilia-Romagna.

But these low-alcohol Lambruscos that harken back to their pre-industrial roots still offer that chilled fresh fruit and palate-cleansing acidity that make them a dream-pairing with food. All the recommendations below are dry, with lip-smacking sapidity, and range from light and lithesome to rich and full-bodied. They run the gamut from golden yellow to inky purple, and can be paired with anything from spring salads to savory barbecue. And they can all be found for $25 or less, making Lambrusco a wine with one of the best pleasure-to-price ratios out there. 

It’s Tuesday night. It’s getting hot. You don’t feel like turning on the oven, and you want something cold and red. So order a pizza, kick back, and pop open one of these delicious wines.

Six Delicious ‘bruscos to Savor

2022 Podere Cipolla (Denny Bini) Ponente 270 Lambrusco di Modena ($25)

Denny Bini has produced fizz from local varieties in Emilia-Romagna since 2007. His Ponente 270 cuvée is a blend of Lambrusco varieties—mostly thick-skinned Grasparossa and 10 percent Malbo Gentile, another grape native to the region. The fruit is organically farmed on clay, sand, and gravel soils. The wine undergoes secondary fermentation in bottle via the O.G. ancestral method. No disgorgement or filtration. A deep reddish brown in the glass that calls to mind Homer’s wine-dark sea. Meat and olives on the nose, with aromas of damson plum, dried cherries, violets, a handful of black earth, and a side of toast. This is a deep cut to pair with some cold cuts: its brooding fruit, brisk acidity, and ripe tannins make it a match for meat. 

NV Fangareggi Biancospino Lambrusco Bianco dell’Emilia ($22)

Though the family has grown Lambrusco grapes since the 1800s, Vitivinicola Fangareggi was founded in 2005 by Giuseppe Fangareggi, and since 2013 his son, Matteo, has run the farm with his mother and uncle. Biancospino (Italian for hawthorn) is a white Lambrusco, made from 85 percent Lambrusco di Sorbara that’s gently pressed, vinified sans skin contact, and blended with 10 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 5 percent Chardonnay. It’s a bright yellow gold in the glass, with a pronounced nose of bruised apple, ginger, fresh-cut hay, and chamomile. Pear, grapefruit, and lemon flavors ride the soaring acidity. A dry, lingering finish. A fantastic wine to enjoy with summer salads or seafood. 

2022 Cantina Paltrinieri Radice Lambrusco di Sorbara ($25)

Since its founding in 1926, Cantina Paltrinieri has been family-run for four generations. And since 1998, Alberto Paltrinieri, the current proprietor, has focused on producing wines from Lambrusco di Sorbara (a variety that’s light in color and body, with floral aromatics). Radice is made entirely from Sorbara, grown on 15 hectares of sandy, silty soil located between two rivers in Modena. This rosé Lambrusco is gently pressed and refermented in bottle with indigenous yeasts, and sealed under crown cap. As it sees no disgorgement or filtration, expect a fine sediment in the bottle. It’s a pretty peachy-pink, with aromas and flavors of strawberries, watermelon rind, white cherries, pink grapefruit, and hibiscus. A hint of salinity lingers on the finish. Even if you’re already a dyed-in-the-wool Lambrusco fan, the Radice cuvée will impress you with what this lighter style can achieve.

NV Lini 910 Labrusca Lambrusco Rosso ($19)

Founded in 1910 by Oreste Lini, Lini 910 is still family-owned, now run by the fourth generation. Under winemaker Fabio Lini, the winery uses both tank and traditional methods to produce their Lambrusco. The Labrusca bottling is 85 percent Salamino (the most widely planted Lambrusco variety) and 15 percent Ancellotta, a blending grape permitted in Lambrusco blends. Deep purple—almost black—in the glass. The nose carries a touch of bacon, with soft, dark fruit on the palate: black cherry, blueberry cobbler, and stewed blackberries, with a line of minerality weaving in and out. Ripe tannins give this Lambrusco the structure to pair with the heartiest of dishes.

NV Fangareggi Puro! Lambrusco dell’Emilia ($21)

This is the Lambrusco rosso from the Vitivinicola Fangareggi range. As the name implies, this wine is 100 percent Lambrusco Salamino—a variety that sits somewhere between the acidity and aromatics of Sorbara and the tannic structure of Grasparossa—grown on sandy soils. The grapes are hand harvested, pressed, and undergo cold maceration on the skins for 48 hours, producing a dark purple wine. A pleasant meaty funk, bramble, and freshly poured Dr. Pepper on the nose. On the palate, red plum, sour cherries, and rhubarb with mouthwatering acidity. Great with a meal, but also a joy to sip on its own on a warm evening.

2022 Folicello Il Rosato Emilia ($22)

Antonella and Marco Folicello have run their farm and winery in Castelfranco, in the heart of Emilia-Romagna, since the 1980s. The hand harvested grapes used for this rosato are certified organic Lambrusco di Sorbara and Salamino. The wine is made with the ancestral method: refermented in bottle, no disgorgement or filtration. Vibrant pink in the glass, with aromas and flavors of pomegranate, cranberry, cherry Popsicle, mint, and dried thyme. Light-bodied and bright, with juicy fruit on the palate underscored by a linear acidity. Plays nicely with any kind of fish, chicken, or pork.

Bonus Lambrusco Cocktail: Fickt Nicht Mit Dem Raketemensch

A recipe with a fun tongue-twister of a name, courtesy of NWR’s Senior Correspondent Jason Wilson:

Now here’s a post-modern cocktail that’s truly unique. Bourbon, walnut liqueur, strawberry jam, and bitters? Plus a balsamic gastrique?! Topped with Lambrusco?! 

Trust me: Just make it and taste it. The German name comes from a line in Thomas Pynchon’s Gravity’s Rainbow, translated as “Don’t fuck with the rocketman.” Yeah, there’s a lot going on here. It’s a recipe from one of my all-time favorite bartenders, Phoebe Esmon.

• 2 ounces bourbon
• ½ ounce walnut liqueur, preferably Nux Alpina
• ½ ounce balsamic gastrique (see below)
• 1 barspoon strawberry jam
• 2 dashes Angostura bitters
• Ice cubes
• Lambrusco
• Long orange peel

Fill a shaker with ice. Add bourbon, walnut liqueur, gastrique, preserves, and bitters. Shake well, then strain into ice-filled collins glass. Top with Lambrusco. Garnish with orange peel.

To make balsamic gastrique: In a small saucepan, dissolve ½ cup sugar in 2 tablespoons of water. Pour in ½ cup balsamic vinegar and simmer until slightly reduced. Let cool before using.