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Tasting Brief: Rye and American Whiskey

37 reviews of new bottles from distillers and blenders both big and small

Susannah Skiver Barton · Nov 21, 2023

Tasting Brief: Rye and American Whiskey

Ready for rye and a host of unique American whiskies? Step up to this tasting brief, which features 37 reviews of new bottles from distillers and blenders, big and small. 

Here you'll find:

  • A half-dozen ryes at the top of the heap, including the 2023 Parker's Heritage Edition, the latest Michter's 10-year-old, and a highly unique koji-process whiskey from FEW Spirits
  • Four rock-solid straight ryes, including a new brand from sommelier and winemaker André Mack
  • Six bottled-in-bond whiskies, featuring some outstanding newcomers from Jack Daniel's

But wait — there's more! We also review several blends that incorporate rye, bourbon, and other whiskey styles to create totally one-of-a-kind flavor profiles. 

Similarly unique are a handful of whiskies that feature special mashbills, such as a stunning four-grain whiskey, two ryes made with the heirloom Abruzzi strain, and a climate change-friendly whiskey distilled from Kernza wheatgrass, of all things. 

We also review four barrel-finished whiskies featuring tequila, aspen, cabernet sauvignon, and heavily toasted casks.

Rounding things out are a trio of American single malts and a focus on Old Potrero. Made at the San Francisco distillery formerly known as Anchor, Old Potrero features a malted rye mashbill that stands out among American craft whiskies. Its flagship bottling and array of single casks are well worth a taste.

Happy drinking!

High-Quality Rye

Parker's Heritage Collection Cask Strength Kentucky Straight Rye (17th Edition)

Ten years old and densely crammed with flavor: water generously to unpack it all. On the nose, there's spiced, dark Mexican chocolate, roasted nuts, Concord grape jelly, leather, bundled herbs, and brightening aromas of lemon, orange, and grapefruit peel. Chewy and full on the palate, though it turns velvety-plush with sufficient water; citrus oil floats on a rolling tide of dark chocolate, roasted baking spices, dark herbs, roasted nuts, and polished oak. The finish is long, with rich oak, peppery spice, dark chocolate, and a flash of grapefruit oil.

Tumblin' Dice 7-Year-Old Single Barrel Straight Rye (#87)

Mature aromas and flavors throughout: grape jelly, dried cherries, brown sugar, dark chocolate, leather, dried herbs, and dusty baking spices on the nose give way to a brawny palate of dark chocolate, dried and jammy dark fruit, leather, black tea, dried herbs, and herbal oak. Wisps of licorice flutter through bundles of herbs as tea leaf and uninterrupted oak play out a deeply rewarding, lengthy finish.

Jack Daniel's Single Barrel Barrel Proof Rye (#23-01924)

A combination of three of the distillery's ten recipes, aged 12 to 25 years. The nose is thick with spiced oak, oily grain, orange peel, iced tea, sugared pecans, and pralines, leading into a chewy palate of spiced red fruit, vanilla extract, dark chocolate, polished oak, maple syrup, and a streak of mint oil. Water shows off more of the maturity with bitter, leathery flavors. Naturally, the finish is quite lengthy, and has a persistent fullness of spice and oak.

Michter's 10-Year-Old Kentucky Straight Rye (2023 Release)

The nose opens with dusty baking spices, dried orange peel, leather armchair, cola syrup, veins of dark chocolate, and crushed almonds, then takes on fresh herb and blueberry aromas with a few drops of water. Initially sweet on the palate, rich baking and cola spices, vanilla, toasted pecans, and chewy orange peel ultimately turn dry, as oak creeps into the peppery, roasted-nut finish. Complexity builds the longer it sits, so feel free to linger.

FEW Cereal Killer Straight Rye

Made with rye and wheat that were saccharified by koji, this is a highly unique whiskey with a cornucopia of interesting flavors and character. The nose has grilled pineapple and peach, barrel char, dried chiles, dried mint, muscadine grapes, and, with water, lilacs and dried rose petals. On the palate, it's sweet, floral, and slightly foxy—muscadines again—with candied rose petal, freeze-dried strawberry, dried mint, sweet cinnamon, and barrel char; there's a dense amount of flavor packed in here. The finish is full, with black pepper, mint, charred oak, roasted nuts, and cinnamon.

Orphan Barrel Scarlet Shade 14-Year-Old Straight Rye

Mature, complex aromas of Cherry Coke, blackberry jam, roasted caraway seeds, cedar oil, tingling baking spice, oily nuts, and leathery rancio. All this is echoed on the palate, which is compact and dense, with flavors stacked and woven: dark berries, dark chocolate, well-integrated baking spice, leathery oak, and a hint of licorice. Dry and peppery on the medium-length finish, with cedar oil, dry oak, and tobacco shavings.

Straightforward Straight Rye

Rebel 100 Straight Rye

Roasted spices, grilled fruit, butterscotch, shoe rubber, and barrel char open the nose, with water bringing out dark herbs: tarragon, mint, and dill. The palate has good complexity, with elegant spice atop sturdy, nutty oak, milk chocolate, and dried herbs. Medium length on the finish, with nutty oak, dried herbs, and tea leaf. A solid, well-rounded rye that's best neat.

Woody Creek Colorado Straight 100% Rye

Sparely constructed but with clear definition and strong character. The nose is pretty and delicate, chalky with a fresh green apple sweetness, hints of dried flowers, apricot, and peach. Chalky minerality is pervasive throughout the palate's spice and fruit flavors: cinnamon apples, dried peaches, chamomile, and cashews, with zesty peppercorns and nuts emerging after water is added. Pink peppercorns, dry oak, unsweetened chocolate, and persistent chalkiness on the medium-long finish.

Ezra Brooks 99 Straight Rye

The nose is like new sneakers treading on a carpet of fresh pine needles: slightly rubbery and quite evergreen. There's also juniper, aniseed, a touch of blueberry, and drips of root beer syrup. Chewy, with velvety tannins on the palate, and flavors of spruce tips, coffee bean, oak, unsweetened chocolate, and minerals; water ups the woodsy bitterness but a tempering herbal sweetness remains. Soft and evergreen on the medium-short finish.

Rye & Sons 2022 Straight Rye

The first whiskey from sommelier and winemaker André Mack starts with a trail mix nose: granola, dried banana, chocolate chips, and green oak, dashed with pineapple juice. Sturdy oak mingles with vivid cinnamon and sautéed bananas on the palate, with semi-sweet chocolate at the turn into a short, spiced finish. Beware adding water, which makes it all fall apart.

Bottled-In-Bond Beauties

Jack Daniel's Bonded Rye

An outstanding offering from the Jack Daniel's bottled-in-bond series. Berry jam, leather, dark chocolate, iced tea, maple syrup, and roasted baking spices on the nose, with dark oak and roasted grain lurking in the background. Spiced and nutty on the palate, oak-forward, with milk chocolate and savory notes of leather and herbal iced tea. A lengthy, velvety finish of leathery polished oak and roasted nuts.

Jack Daniel's Triple Mash Bottled-in-Bond

A bottled-in-bond blend of three different mashbills: 60% rye, and 20% each of Jack's core Tennessee whiskey and its new single malt. It's an unorthodox move for this traditional distiller that pays off handsomely, as enticing soft aromas and flavors seem to lure the unsuspecting drinker to a deep and dense well of flavor. Dried orange and lemon, spiced milk chocolate, brown sugar, cola syrup, and a cascade of dried flower petals on the nose give way to palate notes of gingerbread covered in semi-sweet chocolate, roasted nuts, cola fruits, candied orange peel and ginger, and bitter oak. Leather, dark oak, and bittersweet chocolate on the drawn-out finish.

Hunting Creek Bottled-in-Bond Straight Rye

North Carolina's Southern Distilling Company supplies numerous brands, but this is its first own-label release, showcasing the sweeter side of rye. It starts with a mature nose with spiced apple cider, pecans, milk chocolate, brown sugar coffee cake, sun-warmed oak, and the barest touch of leather and tobacco. The palate is sweetly peanutty with oak and apple, gentle spices, milk chocolate, and coffee cake with brown sugar crumble topping; water adds cooked dark berries and brings out some drying tannins. Goobers and a warm oak hug on the soft, rounded finish.

Rossville Union 6-Year-Old Bottled-in-Bond

High malt content—49%—gives this rye an unusually nutty, pastry case character: peanuts, almond butter, and crushed almond pie crust filled with fresh berries on the nose, along with dusty cinnamon, dried herbs, and oak shavings. The medium-bodied palate at first reads as overly grainy, with green banana and nutty oak, but water helps it cohere and brings out balancing milk chocolate, herbs, and spices. The medium finish is dry and nutty, hot with cinnamon, and sprinkled with milk chocolate shavings.

Jack Daniel's Bonded

If Old No. 7 doesn't do it for you at 80 proof, you might try this version with 25% more alcohol; it's a rich and striking take on familiar Jack flavors. Dark jammy fruits, cherry syrup, cola, leather, peanuts, and baking and root beer spices on the nose, which brightens with water. The oily-textured palate exudes dark chocolate, mature oak, roasted nuts, and plenty of spice, with coffee bean and leather at the turn into a medium-short finish. Well-structured and balanced, it has just enough complexity to be interesting, but not enough to be exceptional.

TX Whiskey Experimental Series Bottled-in-Bond Straight Rye

Fruity, sweet aromas of orange sherbet with sweet mint syrup, blueberry compote, and cherry pie filling give way to an herbaceous, zesty palate—rather a surprise, but a fun one. There's fruit here too—oranges, berries—generous oak, and a chalky-herbal quality that gives welcome balance. Lively, peppery mint, oak, and nutty chocolate cap the medium-long finish.

Blended Whiskies

Bluebird Distilling Days Straight American Whiskey

A blend of 90% 6-year-old bourbon with 10% 7-year-old wheat whiskey. The nose is oak-forward with roasted apple, nuts, and baking spices, alongside Lipton tea bag and light brown sugar. Robust oak and warm spices lead the palate, layering apples and raspberries on semi-sweet chocolate, roasted nuts, and chewy, leathery tannins. The finish is pleasantly full and medium-long, blending semi-sweet chocolate with warm, well-integrated oak.

Barrell Rye (Batch 004)

A blend of ryes from Canada, Kentucky, Indiana, and Tennessee, this has a bright and zesty character on both nose and palate, energetic with lemon, kiwi, fresh pine, and mint. There's also balancing flavors of oak, milk chocolate, and raisins. The finish is fairly short, with oak, chocolate, and persistent citrus notes.

Harlem Standard Straight American Whiskey

Blending light whiskey with rye and bourbon, it's the former that assumes prominence via simple sweetness throughout the nose and palate. Aromas of vanilla and toasted coconut shavings, fragrant oak, light caramel, and candied almonds—with water adding a welcome sprinkle of chopped tarragon and sage—give way to a creamy, sweet, well-structured palate. Vanilla, light caramel, and coconut custard lead, while water pushes out jutting, angular oak. Simple, a touch hot, and dominated by sweet oak on the medium finish.

Little Book Chapter 7: In Retrospect

A unique blend of seven bourbon, rye, and malt whiskies—a component from each of the previous chapters of Little Book along with a seventh unique whiskey. The nose is full and generous with baking spices, sweet tea, almond-covered frozen banana, and vanilla pudding. Despite the proof, it's easy to sip, flavored with clove-studded orange, iced tea, spiced and nutty oak, cherry cola syrup, chocolate chips, and a whisper of dried herbs. The oak-led finish is herbal, nutty, and fairly short, though orange peel lingers.

Brother's Bond American Blended Rye

The nose is light, floral, and fruity, with orange blossom, sweet jasmine, vanilla frosting, and hints of bubblegum and cherry hard candy. Sweet oak, slicked with grape and cherry preserves, milk chocolate, orange peel, peanuts, and warm, indistinct spice on the palate. The medium finish encompasses a similar mix: milk chocolate, nutty grain, sweet oak, and peppery spice. A competent rye, but nothing special.

Three Chord Bourbon & Corn Whiskey Finished in Honey and Toasted Barrels (Batch 0001)

A blend of two bourbons and a corn whiskey, finished first in toasted new oak and then in honey-seasoned barrels. The nose starts with cola spices, iced tea, maple syrup, almond, leather, and fragrant oak, initially showing maturity but opening with water to reveal youthful grain notes beneath. Chocolate cake, almond butter, vanilla, and tannic, drying oak lead the palate; again, water reveals struts of maturity holding up rough-hewn oak and nutty raw grain. It finishes long, with peppery chocolate, roasted nuts, and generous sweet oak.

Unique Mashbills

Two Worlds La Victoire Four-Grain American Whiskey (Second Edition)

A four-grain whiskey made with 48% corn, 35% wheat, and nearly equal parts malt and rye, made up of barrels aged 5 to 11 years. The nose starts off sweet and candied, with grape soda, candy apple, and strawberry drops; water adds welcome dimension with walnuts, oak, baking spice, and tea leaf. Surprisingly light-bodied, the palate's flavors are complex and mature, with ample dark fruit, spiced and leathery oak, cola, cherry preserves, orange peel, herbs, and rancio at the turn. Lengthy, leathery, and spiced finish, with generous notes of antique oak.

High Wire Distilling Co. New Southern Revival Rye Finished in Tawny Port Barrels (Batch 4)

An excellent example of the diversity of flavor craft distillers are bringing to rye whiskey, this is made in Charleston, South Carolina from locally grown Wrens Abruzzi rye, and finished for six months in freshly dumped tawny port casks. The nose is dense with spiced plum and raspberry compote, mint, roasted cinnamon, earthy oak, and birch beer, while the lithe, silky-chewy palate highlights dark-roast coffee, cacao nibs, leather, mint oil, and herbs, sprinkled with black pepper. More pepper, mint, eucalyptus, and roasted nuts on the medium-length finish, which fades smoothly and evenly.

High Wire Distilling Co. New Southern Revival Rye (Batch 24)

Made with locally grown Abruzzi rye, which shows off distinct and complex flavors and aromas. On the nose, dark fruit and herbs, generous pine, both fresh boughs and burning dry in a campfire, eucalyptus, rubbery earthiness, tea leaf, and undertones of Concord grape. The layered, sinewy palate is darkly herbal: black licorice, eucalyptus, and burnt sage mix with unsweetened chocolate, heavily roasted nuts, and piney oak. Continued palate notes into the lengthy finish: evergreen oak, roasted mint and other herbs, licorice, and dark chocolate.

Tattersall 3-Year-Old Kernza Perennial Grain Whiskey

One of the first whiskies made from a perennial wheatgrass that's intended as a more sustainable substitute for annual wheat, and aged for three years. Like many young wheat whiskies, it's grain-forward throughout, with silo, spiced tea, milk chocolate, and pancake batter aromas; water and a bit of time bring out a tantalizing matcha note. The palate is simple but interesting, grainy in both flavor and texture, with raw walnuts, semi-sweet chocolate, and a bit of coffee at the turn; again, matcha emerges as it sits in the glass. Continued simplicity on the finish, with oak, Hershey's chocolate, and peppery heat.

Barrel Finishes

291 Small Batch Colorado Rye (Batch 31)

As with most 291 whiskies, there's a lot going on: minty pineapple slices, cinnamon candy, maple syrup-coated candy apple, dried clay, and barrel char on the nose, leading into an herbaceous, sweet, and spiced palate. Mint, red apples, black-pepper cashews, and barrel char that's both sweet with burnt wood sugars and darkly smoky. A mouthwatering and lengthy finish of red candy apple, smoked herbs, and charred wood.

Jack Daniel's Twice Barreled Special Release Heritage Barrel Tennessee Rye

Finished in high-toast, low-char barrels as a follow-up to the Heritage Barrel Tennessee whiskey Jack Daniel's first released back in 2018. That toast character comes on strong, with butterscotch, burnt sugar, snickerdoodles, and caramel apple covered in nuts on the nose; water brings out fresher apple and berry notes, and lots of vanilla. The palate is surprisingly thin in body, with berry, burnt sugar, and burnt wood flavors; here, water pulls herbal notes—mint, eucalyptus, and sage—to the fore. The medium finish has lingering berries and more burnt wood.

Traverse City Whiskey Co. Cab Franc Barrel Finish Straight Rye

Juicy blueberries and raspberries from the finishing cask meet with rye grain's perfumy floral and herbal aromas: violets, rose petals, hibiscus, orange blossom, mint, and chamomile, along with toasty oak, vanilla, nuts, and marzipan. Herbaceous and sweet on the palate, commingling mint and licorice with rose water, milk chocolate, vanilla, and bright mandarin orange. The finish is medium length, peppery and minty, with oak and residual sweetness.

Jack Daniel's Distillery Series Selection 11 Straight Tennessee Whiskey Finished in Añejo Tequila Barrels

The barrel finish gives familiar Jack flavors an amaro-like herb and spice character: cinnamon butter on hushpuppies, cedar shavings, spiced berries, and wormwood on the nose, along with buttered corn and orange slice. Woodsy and herbal on the palate, with more amaro notes, plus dark chocolate, nutty grain, and oak that gets a bit too cloying at the turn. It finishes short and soft, black pepper and herbs continuing to the end.

A Trio of American Single Malts

Wolves Lot 2 American Single Malt

Distilled partly from California ale, which is immediately evident in the citrus-pine character that's reminiscent of hops. On the nose, guava, watermelon candy, and tart chamoy meet with a light balancing oak note. The structured, clean palate is herbal and piney, bright with sliced grapefruit and sweet with candied melon; water brings out a savory oak flavor and light nuttiness. It finishes medium in length, with chocolate-edged oak and persistent grapefruit and herbs.

McCarthy's Oregon Single Malt Whiskey 6-Year-Old Oloroso Cask Finished Oregon Single Malt

Herbal, woodsy peat mingles with vanilla crème brûlée topped with raspberries and sweet nuts on the nose, and there's a similar juxtaposition on the palate as smoke wafts through semi-sweet chocolate, raspberry jam, rich vanilla, almonds, and a spritz of orange peel. Water integrates and elevates the flavors, bringing them into richer balance. The finish is lengthy, with black pepper, sweet nuts, and drawn-out smoke.

Grand Teton Private Stock 7-Year-Old American Single Malt

Aging in ex-bourbon barrels gives this American single malt a pretty, somewhat delicate profile. Golden Delicious apples, lemon squares, sweet shortbread, sprinkling of salt, and vanilla on the lightly nutty, faintly oaked nose. Herbal-toned oak mingles with sweet lemon-laced shortbread, vanilla frosting, almond, and candied coconut on the palate; water draws out more oak and prominent savory herbs: bay leaf and sage. The medium-length finish continues the palate's sweet and herbaceous notes, bringing them to a gentle close.

Focus on Old Potrero

Old Potrero Single Barrel Straight Malted Rye (Barrel #11-14/5)

A bed of zesty pine underpins spiced, cooked plums and blueberries on the nose, along with cinnamon candy, lime peel, dried chilies, and barrel char; water adds vanilla bean and almond, and amps up the cinnamon. Though this takes water well—and plenty of it is recommended—it drinks surprisingly un-hot, textured thanks to the malting of the grain, and rich with barrel char, coffee bean, dark chocolate, plummy dark fruit, sweet cinnamon, and piney freshness. Charred herbs, dark-roast coffee, and piney oak on the lengthy finish.

Old Potrero 6-Year-Old Straight Malted Rye

Malted rye is out of the ordinary even in today's bustling craft whiskey industry; three decades ago, when the first Old Potrero was made, it was a singular anomaly. Thank goodness the tiny San Francisco distillery kept at it, because the modern iteration is a superb expression of refined rye. The generous nose opens with fresh, evergreen aromas of balsam bough, eucalyptus, and sharp garden herbs, then rounds into sugarplum and spiced berry coulis, raisin, and dark chocolate-glazed gingerbread. On the palate, layered spices and herbs recline amidst dark fruit and dark chocolate, pine, and herbal oak. There's plenty more oak on the medium-long finish, balanced by leafy herbs, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, and molé spices. Water not recommended.

Old Potrero Single Barrel Port Cask Finish (Barrel #7-15/9)

A finish in port casks layers berry and cherry flavors, as well as extra tannins, onto what is already an intense, barrel-forward malted rye. Chili powder, root beer, molasses, dark chocolate, barrel char, cherry syrup, and intense guava and kiwi notes lead the nose. Chewy and tannic in the mouth, with flavors of dark chocolate, birch beer, cooked cherries and berries, molasses, Sugar Babies, coffee bean, and integrated herbs—mint, tarragon, and dill, along with traces of pine sap. Burnt oak and coffee bean, sweet molasses, and herbal dark chocolate offer a pleasing juxtaposition on the medium-long finish.

Old Potrero Single Barrel Sherry Cask Finish (Barrel #8-14/7)

Dark and intense on the nose, with chili powder, barrel char, coffee bean, cocoa powder, grilled rosemary and mint, and cooked tropical fruit. The palate remains consistent: grilled mango and jackfruit, grapefruit zest, dark chocolate, studded with dried pineapple, barrel char, sweetened espresso, and black pepper. More of the same—espresso with sugar, cocoa powder—on the medium-long finish. Made from malted rye.

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