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Tasting Brief:  Irish Whiskey

30 single malts, single pot stills, and blends, tasted and reviewed

Susannah Skiver Barton · Sep 26, 2023

Tasting Brief:  Irish Whiskey

There’s much Irish whiskey to explore beyond the boldfaced brands, so start your search here, with a wide-ranging roundup of 30 whiskies from across the Emerald Isle. In this tasting brief you'll find:

  • Entry-level blends with contemporary flavor profiles
  • High-quality single malts that'll have you setting aside the scotch
  • Exemplary single pot still whiskies that are leading the way in reviving this classic style

Above and beyond these three core categories, we break out some of the most exciting trends in Irish whiskey today:

  • Well-executed cask finishes, from mizunara to virgin oak charred over seaweed
  • Peated Irish whiskies, including the full range from a particularly adept blender
  • Whiskies that incorporate rye grain, including an unusual 100% rye

Finally, we’ve got five extremely aged, extremely excellent whiskies—four single malts, and a rare single pot still. They aren't cheap, but wow, are they special.

Enjoy this journey of discovery. Sláinte!

Basic Blends

Lost Irish Whiskey 2022

One of the better basic blends that have emerged from Ireland in recent years. The nose is light, with scents of flowers, lemons, vanilla, shortbread smeared with strawberry jam and sea salt. It's bready and malty on the palate with a nice balance of spice and oak and a light zesting of orange and lemon. Nuttiness at the turn becomes toasted nuts, tobacco and silky oak on the short finish.

Wise Owl Irish Whiskey

The extremely reticent nose offers only faint notes of salinity, pickling spice, pine needle, and coastal blueberry. An oceanic palate mingles notes of light peat and brine with earthy-sharp herbs: juniper, coriander seed, and a touch of licorice. The short finish is herbaceous and piney, rounding out this oddball, but original, whiskey.

Northcross Triple Wood

Matured in a combination of ex-bourbon, new American oak, and oloroso sherry casks, this blend has a stewy nose of cooked apples, sulfury dried fruit, and boiled brassicas, alongside roasted pecans and walnuts. Flavors of long-cooked cereal, roasted nuts, over-boiled tea and spice are found on the somewhat bitter, edgy palate. Angular spice, oak, and over-cooked fruit and nuts on the medium finish.

A Trio of Single Malts

Limavady Single Barrel (#0081)

Though it doesn't sport an age statement, this single malt finished in PX casks flaunts its maturity with a nose dripping in tropical fruit—mango, guava, jackfruit, passion fruit—grapefruit and orange oil, alongside cooked apples and pears on a base of polished oak and well-integrated spice. The panoply of fruits is layered atop custard and semi-sweet chocolate on the palate, sprinkled with toasted nuts and spices, and velvety-thick with leather and oak that persist into the lengthy, spiced, nutty finish.

The Quiet Man 8-Year-Old

An expressive nose of fruit and flowers: nectarine, overripe pear, kiwi, orange blossom, hibiscus, a touch of pineapple and redcurrant jelly. More fruits on the palate—pear, melon, grapefruit— are balanced by leather, nuts, white pepper, ginger and supple oak; water brings the flavors more into focus. The finish is soft and fairly short, except for persistent leathery oak. A prime example of whiskey that can be completely satisfying at the minimum ABV.

Waterford The Cuvée (2022 Release)

An earthy, somewhat vegetal nose of stewed apples, cooked malt, carob chips, raisins, roasted nuts, oak and integrated spice gives way to spiced milk chocolate, raisins, brown sugar, molasses-cooked apples and oak on the creamy-textured palate. Water allows the spices to express themselves more, and layers on some nice tannins. It finishes with roasted nuts, semi-sweet chocolate, apples stewed with cinnamon and lengthy oak.

Select Single Pot Stills

Teeling Single Pot Still

The first pot still whiskey made in Dublin in nearly 50 years comes in strong with a nose of fresh apples and pears, drizzled in light caramel, vanilla, baking spices—especially cinnamon—toasted nuts and oak. The palate is a mouthful of cold-weather dessert delivering cinnamon-baked apples jazzed up with ginger, toasted nuts and lemon curd, with integrated oak and a touch of tobacco at the turn. A satisfying, medium-long finish offers spicy cinnamon balanced by bittersweet oak and nuts.

Gold Spot Single Pot Still

Matured for a minimum of nine years in a combination of bourbon, sherry, port and Bordeaux casks, this single pot still whiskey has a deceptive simplicity, starting with a reticent nose focused on sweet and clean notes of almonds, vanilla and talcum powder. The palate is dry with tannins but sweet in flavor: vanilla, lemon cream, candied almonds and sweet oak. It finishes long, with spiced lemon peel, chocolaty oak and smoked vanilla.

Writers' Tears Single Pot Still (Chapter 10)

Honeyed and fruity on the nose with scents of plum, watermelon juice, candy apple, pear drops and candied grapefruit peel; water brings out peony and tea rose perfume. Palate notes of citrus oil and orchard fruit are tied together with sugarplum spices, ginger, nuts and polished oak, encased in velvet. The finish is soft and serene, delivering gingery cooked apples and fragrant, restrained oak.

Fantastic Finishes

Glendalough 7-Year-Old Mizunara Finished (Batch 001)

Mango, guava, watermelon, and grapefruit give off tart-pickled aromas on the nose; there's also leather, sandalwood, woodsy spice, and generous brown sugar, which lend an affect of maturity without impacting the underlying vivacity. Big fruit and spice flavors—melon, pear, green apple, mango, and sticky-sweet cinnamon and candied ginger—vie for pride of place on the palate, ending up in taut tension. Water darkens the profile a bit, enhancing the spice character, bringing out nuttiness, and roasting the formerly fresh fruit. The medium-length finish is generously spiced with prevailing oak that's kept in check.

Redbreast Kentucky Oak Edition

Redbreast's core single pot still whiskey goes through its typical maturation in ex-bourbon and sherry casks before a finish in new oak casks from Kentucky. Aromas of almond, vanilla, toffee, apricot, plums, and white cake on the nose introduce a spiced and fruity palate. Flavors of redcurrant jam and blackberry cobbler filling are spiced with cinnamon and clove, plus hints of mint tea, old polished oak, and generous dark chocolate. It finishes lengthy and full—a touch hot at this proof—with spiced dark chocolate, rich polished oak and herbal currents that end in cigar wrapper. Water has a flattening effect so add sparingly.

Redbreast PX Edition

Redbreast's usual sherry-forward profile gets a major boost from a finish in PX sherry hogsheads, making it ideal for satisfying a sweet tooth. It's richly spiced and sherried from the first sniff doling out golden raisins, dark chocolate, toasted hazelnuts, orange peel, brown sugar, dried ginger and sweet baking spices on the nose. The sweetness of the PX expresses itself throughout the syrupy body, with notes of raisins, brown sugar, dark chocolate, candied orange peel, and lush gingerbread spices. Notes of dark chocolate-covered raisins and brown sugar touched with leather round out the medium-length finish.

Writers' Tears Double Oak (Chapter 03)

A balanced blend of single malt and single pot still, aged in American and French oak, it offers scents of honey-nut cereal, Teddy Grahams, light spice, crème brûlée and a touch of saddle soap on the nose—with water, lemon and banana cream pie emerge. The full, rounded palate is leathery, nutty and richly spiced, sweet with vanilla and caramel, bright with orange and lemon zest, and creamy in texture. It finishes long and nutty with a touch of tobacco, spices, semi-sweet chocolate, and leather.

Egan's 10-Year-Old Conviction

This single malt and grain blend is aged in XO cognac casks. It has a light, confectionary nose of vanilla, marzipan and flaky cream horn lightly zested with orange. Sweet and light on the palate, with more vanilla, candied orange peel, coconut cream, praline and Jordan almonds; oak takes a stronger stance when water is added. The sweet-light character continues through the medium-short finish. This is simple, but quite pleasant to sip, with plenty of body from the proof and enough depth to avoid being boring.

Currach Atlantic Kombu Seaweed Cask

This triple-distilled single malt's unique finish in new casks charred over kombu seaweed is immediately apparent in the maritime notes on the nose in the form of oyster shell minerality; there's also dried grain, oak shavings, orange blossom, spice cabinet, and delicate smoke, like incense wafting through a cathedral. The palate is sharp, dry and oak-driven—peppery with an edging of smoke that's at first sweet and spiced, then ashy when water is added. It finishes short, with tobacco and salted, roasted nuts.

Smoky Stuff

Teeling Blackpitts 2020

This peated single malt, triple-distilled at Teeling in Dublin, starts with an unusual and delightful combination of aromas: pineapple, guava and watermelon mingled with saline, peat, vanilla and a touch of spice. Creamy in texture, the palate is salty and mineral driven with oyster shell and peat. It's peppery but never hot, and sweetened by vanilla, melon, pineapple, and milk chocolate oak. Medium-long on the finish, with oak more peat, black pepper and salt—a satisfying conclusion.

The Legendary Silkie Midnight

The peatiest of the Silkie lineup boasts clean flavor and excellent structure, it comes out swinging on briny, maritime peat offset by yellow cupcake with vanilla frosting and lemon zest. On the creamy palate, the peat influence is herbal and briny, without ash or char, and hardly any smoke; peppery spice and vanilla sweetness add dimension. Notes of kelp, peat, salt and pepper round out the medium-length finish.

The Legendary Silkie Red

A finish in Rioja and Ribera del Duero casks gives this blend of peated malt and grain whiskies heft and weight, starting with the nose's umami-rich tonkotsu broth, roasted meat, smoked nuts, and cacao nibs. The palate is full-bodied, thick and nourishing, with spiced and smoky flavors: Lapsang Souchong with a sprinkling of cloves, cacao nibs, grilled pork and roasted apples and walnuts. Sweet, meaty smoke mingles with roasted malt and oak on the lengthy finish.

The Legendary Silkie Irish Whiskey

A blend of malt and grain from Sliabh Liag Distillers in Donegal, scented with butterscotch, cooked pears, simmered orange peel, malt, pineapple rings, dates, nuts and mulling spices on the nose. A nice chewy texture on the palate delivers flavors of dark chocolate, hazelnut, fig, cooked orchard fruits, cinnamon, ginger and leather at the turn. More leather and roasted nuts continue on the finish gently fading into spice.

The Legendary Silkie Dark

Peated single malt in the blend is evidenced by the sweet smoke of the nose, which has the salty-umami character of barbecue, along with thick and weighty tones of ripe blackberry and raspberry, dark chocolate, raisins and vanilla extract. Appetizing notes of sweet-charred burnt ends, roasted apple, semi-sweet chocolate chips, and a touch of saltwater are delivered on a chewy and peppery palate. The finish is fairly short but nicely caps things off with apple pipe tobacco and roasted nuts.

Waterford Peated Ballybannon

Waterford Distillery has kicked off a new era with this single malt, made from Irish barley malted with Irish peat—rather than the more common Scottish peat—which lends a heavy, rubber-shoe character to a profile that’s otherwise rich and fruity. Notes of blackcurrant, stewed prune, and canned tropical fruit on the nose give way to raisins in dark chocolate on the palate, with rich oak throughout. A bit youthful in its heat, it takes water well.

Irish Whiskey Bonding Co. Chancer

A blend of five whiskies including peated single malt from Rademon Estate Distillery, which expresses itself as briny seaweed aromas carried on a stiff ocean breeze. There are sweeter notes too: vanilla, light toffee, and apricot. On the palate, smoky-sweet peat edged with char and ash mingles with vanilla bean, sea-salt sprinkles and a generous grind of black pepper; it's spare, austere, but all in alignment. The finish is short and clean, with dry oak, peppery peat and ash. Water not recommended.

Boundary-Pushing Irish Ryes

Shortcross Rye and Malt

Made at Rademon Estate Distillery from malted rye and malted barley, this shows remarkable consistency from start to finish, with or without water. The nose opens with lemon hand soap, roasted almonds and hazelnuts, brown sugar and light raisin aromas, shot through with raspberry purée, leathery and cereal. The oily-textured palate slips all over the tongue, yoking roasted nuts, leather and polished oak with sprightly lemon and orange peel for excellent balance. Lemon oil on roasted hazelnuts and polished leather-and-oak furniture square off the medium finish.

Powers Irish Rye

Made with 100% rye—a first for Ireland. There's honeyed iced tea, spiced with clove and cinnamon and garnished with an orange wedge, on the nose, alongside sweet, fragrant oak. Clove, allspice, and honey balance the palate's dominant oak flavors, joined by unsweetened chocolate and roasted nuts. Water emphasizes juicy citrus, especially orange, on both nose and palate. The finish fades quickly, nutty with continued clove and allspice, and dry oak.

Method and Madness Rye and Malt

Made from 60% rye and 40% malted barley at Midleton's Micro Distillery, this is simple and clean. The nose is pretty and appealing, with cream puff pastry, almond paste, vanilla sugar cookie and a slick of coconut jelly. More of the same can be found on the palate: pastry cream in a fresh-baked puff pastry shell, marzipan, and vanilla; water brings out a pop of lemon and oak. A full, somewhat hot, finish delivers almond, vanilla and sweet oak.

Extra-Aged and Astonishing

Teeling 32-Year-Old Purple Muscat Finish

Like many of the best aged single malts, the nose is led by tropical aromas—guava juice, dried pineapple and kiwi, hibiscus, and demerara sugar—and juxtaposed with mature notes of leather, polished oak, and walnut shells. Top notes of guava, mango, and jackfruit on the stunning palate, which is grounded in roasted nuts, polished oak, and dark chocolate. The lengthy finish continues the flavors of the palate, tropical and rancio notes running in step. A simply astonishing whisky.

Bushmills 30-year-old Rare Cask

Explosively juicy fruit aromas of watermelon, green apple candy, guava, and figs dominate the nose, though there’s a healthy dose of elegant oak and leather as well. The same holds true for the palate, guava, mango, watermelon candy and dried figs crowd a leathery oak base that’s well-seasoned with pepper and allspice. Leather, roasted nuts, polished oak and persistent tropical fruit oil on the lengthy finish. Remarkable balance of spotlighted spirit character with a restrained cask—no trace of the bitterness that bogs down other single malts of this age. Spectacular.

Midleton Very Rare Silent Distillery Collection Chapter Three

This 47-year-old single pot still Irish whisky offers a rare—and magnificent—taste of a style that was once nearly lost. It strikes a delicate balance between antique aromas of cedar cigar box, polished oak furniture and leather, plus rich, ripe Concord grapes, raspberries, blueberries, strawberries and guava. The palate is similarly ripe and tropical, with berries, guava, and jackfruit, tempered by wood spice, dry and polished oak, and integrated nuttiness. Prominent but silky tannins add texture without drying out the mouth. Quite lengthy on the finish; persistent ripe fruit mingles with spiced oak and nuts, with mature polished oak flavors lingering for several minutes. Do not add water as it mutes the vibrancy of the whiskey.

Bushmills 30-Year-Old

Deep rose perfume interlaces with juicy mango, guava, and passion fruit on the nose, while well-integrated spice, hinting at incense, lacquered oak and rich vanilla syrup provide balancing dark character. The palate has a stately bearing but is in no way fragile, retaining supple energy—spices and dry, incense-like oak meld seamlessly with mango, passion fruit, grapefruit peel and dark chocolate. The finish is long, but not over-long, the bitter-edged oak, kept in check by spices and an oily sheen of bright grapefruit, is capped by cigar wrapper, roasted walnuts, and cinnamon. A masterwork of maturity, where barrel notes don't overpower racier spirit character but instead work in perfect harmony.

Bushmills 25-Year-Old

A surprisingly reticent nose that nonetheless reveals the whiskey's elegance and maturity clearly: jammy and cooked dark fruits galore, plus Concord grape juice, green apple candy, and a marshmallow swirl in a dark chocolate bar. More deep, dark, rich fruit can be found on the palate, along with polished oak, antique leather, rose oil, softly warming spice, and hazelnuts. A sparse watering brings out pops of citrus peel that momentarily brighten the paneled-library notes before receding back into the woodwork. The finish is soft and not that long, but continues the palate's dark opulence.

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