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27 bourbons, including some real stunners, tasted and reviewed
Susannah Skiver Barton · Jul 12, 2023
Bourbon fans, strap in for a slew of reviews featuring everything from barrel-proof beasts to extra-mature marvels. Below you’ll find:
For more reviews of bourbon and American whiskey, head over to our recent Tasting Brief. And if you're more into rye, we've got you covered there too.
Happy drinking, y’all.
The nose is thick with cooked dark cherries, blackberry jam, cola syrup, caramelized bananas, vanilla extract, and oily coconut—almost like a Piña Colada in its rich sweetness. Chewy on the palate, with pleasant tannic astringency, it has flavors of leathery oak, dark fruit, high cacao-content dark chocolate, coconut milk latte, burnt caramel, and vanilla bean. Lengthy but not overlong finish that continues the rancio notes of the palate without veering into bitterness. A deftly proofed whiskey, perfectly matched with its maturity.
Prime numbers are uncommon age statements; the presence of one here underscores this bourbon’s singular excellence. Deep notes of polished oak and leather on the nose are lifted by pralines, grape soda, candied rose petals and gardenias. The mouth-filling palate goes big on herbal and polished oak, roasted nuts, spiced coffee cake—and coffee bean—and dark chocolate-covered cherries, culminating in a balanced finish of Andes mints, black tea, pepper, and unflagging oak.
Smells like a warm autumn day in the countryside, dusty with hay and fragrant curing tobacco, with tea leaf, cola spices, paprika, maple syrup, and oily cashews and peanuts. The chewy palate is rich but not heavy, perfectly proofed to allow mature barrel notes to shine: dark fruit and dark chocolate, roasted spices, coffee bean, tobacco, raisins, dried figs. More dark, dried fruit, roasted nuts, white pepper, and coffee bean on the medium-long finish. Takes water well, leading to a silkier mouthfeel and more integrated flavors.
Mature aromas of horehound, cola spices, leather, dried mint, and weathered barn boards, rounded out with apple butter and dense plum jam. Full-flavored palate, but lean: oak-driven, with unsweetened chocolate, bitter roasted nuts, black pepper, dried mint, cinnamon, and allspice; water brings out blackberry jam and dried cranberry. Persistent pepper and cinnamon on the finish, mingled with baking chocolate and semi-bitter oak.
Expressive and intense on the nose, with raspberry, dark chocolate, vanilla, toasted hazelnut, a bit of raisin, and big oak; water brightens and freshens the fruitiness. Mouth-filling and chewy, the flavors remain powerful: raisins, dark fruit, leather, dark chocolate, and coffee, with more dark fruit and chocolate, and lingering rancio, on the lengthy finish. Full-bodied long past the final swallow.
Mature and proofed for sipping, with a nose that encompasses candied dried blueberries, cherry cordial, blackberry jam, cola, spiced pecans, dusty cinnamon, old leather armchair and bookbindings, and earthy dried clay. Silky and unctuous, sliding down the throat like thick Italian hot chocolate, the palate is generously spiced with cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, and allspice; cacao nibs, coffee bean, and dark fruit spritzed with orange peel add to the richness, and give way to a chocolaty, spiced finish. Avoid water.
Maturity is evident on the nose, with aromas of dried blueberries, sarsaparilla, boysenberry syrup, iced tea, and peanuts in Coke. Dark fruit—blueberries, raspberry jam, blackberry cobbler filling—rich cola spices, and dark chocolate-covered mints on the palate; water brings out wintergreen, white pepper, and candied violet, all of which persist through the finish, with quickly fading dark fruit and chocolate. Pleasing aromas and flavors, but a disappointingly thin texture holds this bourbon back from greatness.
A deep, rich nose: oily roasted peanuts, slipped into a cold glass Coke bottle, plus vanilla bean, cherry preserves, dark chocolate, root beer spices, and coffee beans in a burlap sack. The palate is a mouth-filling bite of ganache-covered dark chocolate torte, paired with espresso, and deepened by dark fruits, spices, and orange peel. More dark chocolate, deep vanilla, and coffee bean on the lengthy finish. It remains textured and complex, no matter how much water you add. One more supporting example of Elijah Craig Barrel Proof's consistent excellence.
Angel’s Envy is all about the finishing cask—in this case, port, turned up to 11 at barrel proof. Crushed and slightly fermented raspberries, strawberries, and grapes on the nose, which is vinously sweet and a touch tart. More of the same on the palate: raspberry coulis filling in a ganache-covered chocolate cake, with nose-tingling baking spices. Water transforms the mouthfeel from full and chewy to full and silky, and brings out a rancio note that emerges fully on the lengthy, dessert-like finish. A pure pleasure to drink—slowly.
Proving that wheated bourbon needn’t be restrained, the full-flavor experience starts with a rich nose of sweet tea, blackberry jam, vanilla bean, brown sugar-cinnamon cake topping, aromatic oak, and oily peanuts in Coke. Chewy and muscular in texture, the palate is surprisingly spiced, boasting licorice, mint, spruce tips, and black tea, balanced by sweet dark fruit, savory roasted nuts, and leather. Dark chocolate and cooked cherry mingle with sweet mint on the lengthy finish.
Smells like breakfast! Cinnamon-spiced strawberries and raspberries top a bowl of toasted oats and creamy vanilla-honey nut clusters cereal, with a pleasant toasted wood aroma. Baking spices, dried orange peel, Goobers, vanilla syrup, and robust oak all play well on the big-bodied palate, and continue into the finish, which emphasizes oak further. The best batch of Booker’s in a while.
A compelling and generous nose of rich vanilla and cherry, spiced mangoes, fleshy oranges, candy apples, and candied almonds gives way to a densely layered palate with cooked apple, pear, and cherry flavors, mingled with milk and dark chocolates, and injections of toasted oak that takes on a pleasing bitterness when water is added. The finish is spiced and sweet, medium in length.
Always barrel proof and kicky, this batch of Booker’s is bucking the saddle. The grain-led nose packs in raw almonds, honey-flavored Teddy Grahams, and spiced tea with dried orange peel, while the hot, energetic palate has ample oak and spice, honey and burnt-sugar sweetness, and a touch of citrus. Oak and spice turn bitter on the peppery finish.
Heaven Hill pulled out all the stops for this whiskey, which is two-thirds 13-year-old bourbon that spent four weeks in a second new charred oak barrel before being blended with one-third 15-year-old bourbon. It is deeply, thoroughly commanding: the kind of bourbon that takes up lodging from the first sip. An aromatic nose of dark, jammy fruit, dried rose petal potpourri, milk chocolate, sugared nuts, iced tea, rich oak, and a touch of earthy artichoke give way to chewy, mouth-filling flavors of dark chocolate, roasted nuts, dried ginger and mint, polished oak, rose oil, and dark fruit at the turn. Water lengthens and deepens the flavors, transforming them not so that they change, but that they’re made more themselves. Lengthy finish of tobacco leaf, roasted nuts, polished oak, dark fruits, and lingering peppery-dark chocolate. A standout even among previous Parker's Heritage releases.
A generous nose offers new aromas with each sniff: first cinnamon pecans and cardamom-spiced almonds, then toasted oak and grain, a rich crust of vanilla sugar atop blueberry-studded granola; and finally dried apricots and peach rings. There’s a lot happening on the palate too: milk chocolate, stone fruit, vanilla, and a whole cabinet of baking spices, spread atop a base of toasted oak, grain, and nuts. Heavy watering brings out coffee which, paired with the spiced, grainy sweetness, gives the impression of a cup of joe with coffee cake. Sweet oak and nuts on the finish.
Clean lines and structure throughout this blend of bourbons from Kentucky, Indiana, and Tennessee. The nose is oily and grainy, the inside of a silo, with a touch of Cherry Coke. Simple and spare but mature flavors on the palate: semi-sweet chocolate, coffee bean, grain, and lightly charred oak. Water adds dimension and teases out cedar oil, balsam, and herbal tea. The medium-long finish continues a balanced barrel-and-spirit character with sweet toasted grain, medium-toast oak, milk chocolate, and tobacco.
Herbal and spice aromas lead the nose: orange pekoe iced tea, fresh mint leaves, cloves, cherry syrup, and root beer spices, with fragrant forest notes of leaves and bark after water is added. Bewilderingly fresh on the palate, which is minty and spice-forward with cloves, black pepper, and allspice; the proof and barrel character are spot on, giving plenty to chew on without too much tannin. A mild finish of Andes mints and gentle oak.
The first release from blender Dixon Dedman since he departed Kentucky Owl, this blend of Kentucky straight bourbons is finished in new charred oak. It gives the impression of younger bourbon deftly blended with much older stock: orange peel, cedar chest, mocha, and strawberry candy meet old oak and hints of rancio on the nose. The palate is tannic and chewy with toasted oak, peanuts in the shell, full grain, and orange peel, balanced by mature notes of tobacco, cedar, dried mint, and light-roast coffee. The youth-maturity tug of war continues on the lengthy finish.
Distilled at M.B. Roland and blended by Jackie Zykan, formerly of Old Forester, this bourbon wears its craft hallmark on its sleeve, evident in unusual notes of spiced plum preserves, lebkuchen, and savory anise. There are more familiar friends too—sassafras, molasses, and raspberry jam on the nose, and rich dark chocolate, coffee bean, and barrel char on the big-bodied palate. Zykan’s adept handling brings everything together with remarkable balance, though with water and time in the glass, barrel char and dark chocolate dominate.
A shy nose of iced cherry-vanilla scones, lemon zest, light brown sugar, and pistachios, with shavings of milk chocolate. Dry and spiced on the palate, the oak is prominent but not overbearing, balanced by dark fruit, Goobers, cinnamon, honey, lemon, and cherry bark bitters. Generous polished oak and white pepper on the finish.
Former Bulleit blender Eboni Major, one of bourbon’s rising stars, lent her expertise to a distillery in her hometown of Birmingham, Alabama, to create this decidedly non-traditional bourbon. It starts with a nose of perfumy spices and citrus: lemon, mandarin orange, lime leaf. Hints of mango and grape, sprinkled with rose petals, overlay a gauzey base. The palate is zingy with lemon peel and upheld by strong notes of toasted nuts, milk chocolate, and a sweet smokiness, like jerky. More toasted nuts, and cloying oak, on the finish.
The second brand release in a whiskey venture launched by Coors, of brewing notoriety, this blend of two bourbons has perfumey soft florals, Lipton tea bag, and light oak and spice on the nose. The palate drinks hot and tannic, with broad flavors of allspice, semi-sweet chocolate, oak, and indistinct sweet fruit, leading into a short, hot finish dominated by wood sugars.
Sumptuous from first whiff, with blackberry, blueberry, Italian plum, Concord grape, gooey caramel, praline, candied pistachios, vanilla, and warm spices. The rich, lush palate balances baking spices and pepper with mint, licorice, pine, candied and roasted nuts, vanilla bean, dark caramel, and drizzled dark chocolate—flavors that carry through to the lovely, lingering finish. A truly decadent whiskey, borderline rococo in its furbelows and foofaraws.
Complex aromas on the nose: granola with toasted pecans and dried orange peel, dark berries, leathery vanilla, cola spices, and linseed oil rubbed into antique wood; water lightens the aromas and brings out a sweet note of cooked plantains. Chewy and full-bodied on the palate, but more lean than round: lithe cigar wrapper, dry roasted walnuts, and black pepper twine atop bitter-leaning oak. The finish is fairly simple, with a peppery heat.
Light and reticent on the nose, with vanilla, tea leaf, praline, candied orange peel and, with water, Cel-Ray soda. The palate buzzes with a bouquet of nose-tingling spices: dried ginger, cardamom, anise, and caraway, with vanilla and dried coconut for balancing sweetness. Oak and sweet vanilla on the medium-long finish. It’s not clear what the rosé cask is doing for the whiskey, but this is pretty darn drinkable.
Grain-forward and blunt on the nose, with pencil shavings, lemon balm, green banana, dried apricot, and wood spice, and showing similar youthful character on the palate: cracked corn, cinnamon Red Hots, dry oak, tea leaf, and Spanish peanuts. Plenty more oak, wood spice, and grain on the finish. Evidence that even a very young bourbon can be ready to drink.
Innocuous aromas of lemon and orange peel, baking spices, sweet oak and vanilla. Consistent on the palate: milk chocolate, baking spice, iced tea, vanilla, and oak. And more of the same on the medium finish. A straight-down-the-middle bourbon that offers nothing more than necessary.
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