Search Unicorn
What to Drink

The Case for Low-Proof Whiskey

It may not be cool—and you might not want to admit it—but there’s still plenty to enjoy at 80 proof.

Susannah Skiver Barton · Aug 23, 2024

The Case for Low-Proof Whiskey

There’s stronger whiskey, and more of it, now than ever before. Based on my whiskey spreadsheet, which I use to keep track of everything I taste, more new releases than not are proofed at 50 percent ABV or above—and the proportion is even greater for American whiskey. Many distillers are trying to stand out by bulking up, and offering whiskey that could double as hand sanitizer.

There are many excellent arguments for high-proof whiskey! And I’m not here to refute them. I love a good barrel-proof bourbon, often on a giant rock. Or a chewy-thick, cask-strength, sherried scotch. But I would like to make a case for the opposite end of the proof scale: those gentle, soft, featherweight whiskies that many advanced drinkers now bypass entirely. It’s easy to dunk on them, but hear me out: they still deserve a spot in the pantheon.

Low-proof whiskey is sessionable. At least insofar as whiskey can be sessionable. It’s a lot harder to stretch your evening by a drink or two when you’re pouring something that’s 60 percent ABV. An extra sip could be all it takes to move the needle from festive to excessive. Lower-proof pours allow for a greater margin of error—and more time to decide when you’ve reached your saturation point.

It blends seamlessly into Highballs and other refreshing cocktails. This point dovetails with the one above: long drinks are meant to be low-strength, ideal for lazy afternoons or long, slow evenings of drinking. When you’re mixing whiskey with club soda, ginger ale, or Coke—and by the way, it’s okay to do that—it’s very unlikely that you’ll notice a huge difference in flavor from proof to proof. So take it easy and use the 40 percent ABV stuff here.

Low proof is more accessible for new whiskey drinkers. Someone once told me that whiskey shouldn’t hurt, and I quite agree! But for many folks interested in exploring it, the burn of the alcohol—three or four times the level of wine—presents a hurdle to overcome. Even if you happen to be fine with a fiery tingle, offering newcomers a low-proof pour to start—and plenty of water and ice on the side, for them to experiment with—is a hospitable welcome to the world of whiskey. Let them work their way up from there.

Some whiskey tastes better at low proof, because it’s designed that way. I’ve heard people argue that distillers (or, more likely, their corporate overlords) are trying to water down the whiskey to save a buck. But there are whiskies that are purpose-made to be proofed at the minimum threshold. Many scotches—especially blends, Irish whiskies, and most Japanese whiskies—are designed for ideal balance at 40 or 43 percent ABV. They’d taste a little bolder if bumped up a bit, but that doesn’t mean they lack something as-is.

Low-Proof Whiskies That Put Flavor First

Compass Box Artist Blend, 43% ($39)

My personal go-to for house scotch. This blend (formerly known as Great King Street) does it all: cocktails, Highballs, neat pours, on the rocks. Like all blends, the exact recipe changes from time to time, but it always features waxy Clynelish matured in first-fill bourbon casks, plus fragrant-fresh Linkwood and pastry-sweet grain whisky. And it’s reliably a good deal.

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt, 43% ($85)

A blend of malt whiskies from Nikka’s two distilleries, and named for company founder and the father of Japanese whisky, Masataka Taketsuru. It’s layered and complex, melding Yoichi’s soft peat with tropical fruit and citrus notes from Miyagikyo. And unlike many other Japanese malt whiskies, it’s easy to find and fairly priced.

Bushmills 16-Year-Old, 40% ($150)

Even though it’s gotten a little spendy, I’d put this Irish single malt up against any from Scotland. Its texture is soft and velvety, but it’s also delightfully juicy with red fruit thanks to a finish in port pipes. One of those whiskies that punches above its weight. At your local Irish pub, it’s a much more satisfying option than Jameson.

Get on the list

Sign up for the free newsletter thousands of the most intelligent collectors, sommeliers and wine lovers read every week