Louisville is the center of the Bourbon universe. Its Whiskey Row was once known as the Wall Street of Bourbon because most Kentucky distilleries had business offices in Louisville, Kentucky’s largest city and business center. Today Whiskey Row is making a comeback, and there are more distilleries in Derby City than there have been in the last 100 years. 

 After a severe depression in the downtown area that almost cost the city its historic Whiskey Row, Louisville is finally roaring back. The once deserted streets are bustling with activity every day now thanks to strong efforts to revitalize tourism. No matter the day or time, there’s always something going on right on Main Street.

But just because there are more than a dozen distilleries and tasting rooms (and even more whiskey bars) within the city limits doesn’t mean you can just show up and figure it out as you go. Doing a long weekend in Louisville the right way takes a little planning ahead, particularly when it comes to visiting distilleries. But don’t worry, if the distillery (or bar or restaurant) you’re coming to see is fully booked, you’ll still have plenty of other options.

Insider Tips

• The Kentucky Bourbon Trail has an official Visitor Center in Louisville at the Frazier History Museum. There, you can find expert help to guide you through your options for distillery tours and tasting rooms, if you don’t already know exactly where you’re headed.
• However, not all distilleries and brands are part of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, so be sure to look beyond the Trail to understand all of your options.
• If you’ll be using Louisville as a home base for visiting major distilleries outside the city, two stops per day is plenty–the distilleries are spaced pretty far apart. If you’re planning to visit distilleries mostly within the city, four to five stops a day (plus food and drinks and shopping) is possible.
• Most distillery tours book up 3-6 months in advance. So plan your trip as early as you can, and stay flexible–there’s almost always an opening somewhere. Most of the downtown Louisville visitor experiences have multiple options including walk-in tastings.

Downtown Whiskey Bars You Shouldn’t Miss

• Doc Crow’s: Smokehouse, raw bar, and whiskey powerhouse (complete with basement ghosts) right in the middle of the most historic section of Whiskey Row.
• Merle’s Whiskey Kitchen: Southern and soul food with numerous whiskey-world accolades, because who doesn’t like tacos with their Bourbon?
• Justins’ House of Bourbon: Peruse the shelves or sample vintage and rare whiskeys (ask for seating in the speakeasy).
• The Last Refuge: Bob Dylan’s high church of Bourbon, which houses one of the most impressive whiskey collections in the world.
• Meta: Louisville’s best and most enduring craft cocktail bar, made famous for serving Pappy Jell-O shots a decade ago.

A Perfect Whiskey Row Weekend Itinerary

Friday

10:30 a.m. Take a tour at Angel’s Envy Distillery,  a beautiful distilling operation that spans one square block which has been set up to showcase the Vendome copper column still on the Main Street side of the building. (Note: I have been paid for conducting staff training for this company in the past.)

12 p.m. For lunch, head to Troll Pub Under the Bridge, which shares a haunted basement space with Doc Crow’s upstairs. Larger groups will enjoy dining in the secret room behind the bookcase.

2:30 p.m. Head down to the very end of Whiskey Row for a tour of Kentucky Peerless Distilling Company. One of the largest distilleries in Kentucky before Prohibition, Peerless was revived by the founder’s grandson and great-grandson. It’s also one of just a few distilleries making sweet mash whiskey (as opposed to the more standard sour mash).

5 p.m. Check out Buzzard’s Roost on Whiskey Row, a non-distiller producer that specializes in various wood finishing techniques in partnership with the Independent Stave Company.

6 p.m. Enjoy dinner at Monk’s Road Boiler House, the Louisville branch of Log Still Distillery in remote Gethsemane, Kentucky

Saturday

9 a.m. Start with espresso and breakfast sandwiches at Blackbeard Espresso.

10 a.m. Head to the Frazier History Museum to learn the history of Kentucky Bourbon. This museum has a comprehensive exhibit on Bourbon, ranging from the limestone filtered water to the farming practices to the final product. The Bourbon room at the end makes a great photo op.

11 a.m. Have lunch at Proof on Main in 21C–try the Derby City lunch special.

12:30 p.m. Visit Green River for a cocktail in the speakeasy or at the horseshoe-shaped bar while taking in the historic Green River advertisements and ephemera.

1 p.m. Stop by Art Eatables on Main Street for a chocolate and whiskey pairing. Pick up some Bourbon truffles that are made with various cocoa varieties to pair perfectly with each type of whiskey, from Ancient Age to Yellowstone.

2 p.m. Full disclosure: Evan Williams is my fifth great-grand-uncle, and I work with the brand to train staff. Nonetheless, most Louisvillians would agree that you're missing one of the city's great attractions if you don't take a tour of the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience to learn about the history of Louisville, the river’s role in shaping the early distilling industry, and civic leader Evan Williams. 

3:15 p.m. Stop by the Barrel on Main for another great photo op. This sidewalk sculpture at the corner of Main Street and Fourth Street is a favorite among tourists and locals alike.

3:30 p.m. Take a tour of the Old Forester Distillery, the only distillery tour that also features a fully functioning cooperage–something that most whiskey geeks don’t typically get to see. You can even press the button to char the barrel.

5 p.m. Have drinks and dinner at Repeal Oak Fired Steakhouse, located inside the whiskey-themed Hotel Distil–one of the best restaurants on Main Street that features an oak-fired grill.

7 p.m. Walk back to Michter’s Fort Nelson to enjoy a cocktail at the bar while checking out the distillery below through the open mezzanine. 

Sunday

10 a.m. Enjoy brunch at local favorite Wild Eggs on South Floyd Street–the biscuits and gravy and the cinnamon rolls are the way to go.

12 p.m. Take a car out to the Stitzel-Weller Distillery in Shively, just south of downtown. This is the distillery that Pappy Van Winkle and the Stitzel brothers built after Prohibition, opening it on Derby Day in 1935. Stick around after the tour to visit the Garden & Gun Club for elevated shareable bar snacks and cocktails, or sit on the lawn near the spring house where Pappy Van Winkle used to throw spectacular Kentucky Derby parties.

3 p.m. Stop by Neat Bottle Bar in the Highlands neighborhood for a pour of vintage whiskey, like a 1992 Johnny Drum or a 1964 Anderson Club Bourbon.

5 p.m. Head to dinner at The Brown Hotel to try a Louisville original, the Hot Brown–an open face turkey sandwich with bacon and tomato smothered in Mornay sauce. The Hot Brown was originally invented at The Brown as a hangover cure, and you haven’t really visited Louisville until you've had one!