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The legend weighs in on Burgundy, Beaujolais—and a couple of other regions that might surprise you.
The NWR Editors · Aug 22, 2024
Fifty years ago, a teenaged New Yorker named Daniel Johnnes went to France for the first time. Once there, as he’s put it with typical understatement, “I just saw something I liked.” So began one of the great and most influential American careers in wine, and a résumé that’s damn near impossible to fit into a paragraph: a somm who built legendary wine programs for the likes of Montrachet and Daniel; his fruitful and long-running partnership with chef Daniel Boulud; importer at Daniel Johnnes Selections; founder of three major wine festivals—La Paulée (focusing on Burgundy wines), La Tablée (for Rhône wines), and La Fête du Champagne (focusing on—well, guess); founder of the wine community and consultancy Pressoir; recipient of major honors from France—one could go on, and on and on. The New Wine Review caught up with him shortly after he enjoyed yet another legendary bottle (read on for the details) and asked him a few questions.
1. My gateway wine experience was...
In 1983, I had the good fortune to be invited to Burgundy for the first time. The moment that I descended into the cellar of Georges Mugneret in the village of Vosne-Romanée, my life was forever changed. I can still relive the sensations of the cool, humid cellar, the aromas of white mushrooms and fermented grapes, the dim light, the near total silence. There was something spiritual about it. I have been reliving it and enjoying it for the past 40 years.
2. An ideal pairing is...
Grilled pork sausage and chilled Fleurie. This might sound pedestrian, but what’s better than delicious simplicity? The charred aromas of the grill pair with, and beautifully counter, the floral red fruit aromas of the Fleurie. On the palate, I love how the sweet fruitiness of Fleurie smooths the salty and spicy notes of the sausage. There is something primal about this pairing that’s foolproof. I’d go with heritage pork sweet sausage, not spicy)—and a 2022 Justin Dutraive “La Madone” Fleurie.
3. My favorite wine list—that is not my own or my company’s—is...
Villa Más, a seaside restaurant in the Costa Brava region of Spain. A fantastic selection of small-producer Spanish wines, and a world-class range of great Burgundies at still affordable prices.
4. Underrated wine or region?
There is still a negative impression of Beaujolais from the Beaujolais Nouveau days. Beaujolais is a very serious wine. There are many different styles, ranging from quaffable light wines to those with aging potential. The overarching quality that draws me to it is how high it scores on my pleasure and deliciousness scale. And it’s easy to pair with many types of cuisine.
5. The last wine I drank was...
From a magnum of 1971 Romanée-Saint-Vivant from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. I’m not kidding. Truly glorious!!
6. When I’m not drinking wine, I’m drinking...
Water.
7. At my final meal, I’m drinking...
What a terrible thought. But why not go out in style? It would have to be a 1955 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny—my birth year. Or, if that’s not available, a 1990 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru “Cros Parantoux”.
8. What’s the best wine that no one seems to want?
If it’s a great wine, there is always someone who wants it.
9. What wine (or region) should people be collecting right now?
I don’t know if people should be collecting these, but they should be drinking: Champagne, Champagne, Champagne, white wines from the Loire Valley—mainly the Chenin Blanc appellations—whites from Sicily’s Mount Etna, and German and Alsace Riesling. For reds, Burgundy from the Côtes de Nuits-Villages, the Hautes Côtes, and Beaujolais and Piedmont. (Barolo and Barbaresco still produce some of the most soulful wines in the world.)
For those looking for serious wines to lay down, Bordeaux may offer the best value in fine wine today. And if price is no object, nothing is better than a great Montrachet or Musigny.
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