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25 top-notch whiskies showcase the blooming style’s diversity
Susannah Skiver Barton · Aug 01, 2023
Bourbon buffs! Scotch supporters! Step right up and try some American single malt, a whiskey that’s ripe for exploration and enjoyment.
Just thirty years after the first American single malt, or ASM, was made by Steve McCarthy at Clear Creek Distillery in Oregon, the nascent style has blossomed into a full-blown category, led primarily by small, independent distillers across the nation. Their output volumes and limited distribution keep ASM fairly niche, but the recent entry of two of the nation’s biggest whiskey names—Jack Daniel’s and Jim Beam—may just blow the category wide open.
Below are 25 reviews of American single malt whiskies (and one vatted malt), from OG distilleries that have been in the game for decades to four noteworthy newcomers to several beefy bottlings at (or near) cask strength.
Within this tasting, you’ll find several examples of a prevailing trend in ASM—whiskies that highlight local ingredients. Among these:
A brief detour for peat-heads: Solum is one of just a handful of American single malts that are made with American peat (the United States, not known as a peat haven, actually has millions of acres of peatland). Nearly all of these ASMs use peat to add flavor during the barley malting process, resulting in smokiness that should be vaguely familiar to drinkers of Islay malt. But Brother Justus imparts its Minnesota-sourced peat in a totally unique way, through infusion. It results in a whiskey that’s utterly distinct and rewarding—as the best examples of American single malt should be.
Happy drinking, friends!
A new annual release, this whiskey comes from Westward's 21-barrel solera, meaning each future edition will taste a little different. For 2023, the whiskey shows a well-matured, complex character that gets better the longer it sits in the glass. It starts with soft but enticing aromas of cinnamon-grilled pineapple, mango sprinkled with allspice, cloves, and kumquats, all overlaid with perfumy jasmine. More tropical fruit mingles with tingling ginger, white pepper, cardamom, clove, and cacao on the pillowy-textured palate, before curving into dark-roast coffee, cacao nibs, and barrel char. There's persistent spice and oak on the finish, as richer fruit flavors drift off on a warm air current. Self-confident and sophisticated; the kind of American single malt that wouldn't have been possible three or five years ago, but hopefully serves as a harbinger for the entire category.
On the nose: guava juice, kiwis, jackfruit and ataulfo mango, sprinkled with light spice and edged with nutty grain. But the palate isn't quite as much of a juice fest, as slightly bitter oak and dark chocolate-covered walnuts counteract tropical fruit flavors with a pleasing dryness. Both elements come together in the medium finish, as savory oak joins hands with dark chocolate-dipped pineapple.
Fermentation-forward aromas of red candy apple, guava hard candies and watermelon Jolly Ranchers sit atop a gentle base of dusty grain and light spice. On the palate, spirit meets its match in barrel; it's a tug of war between candy apple and Tajín-dipped mango, and spiced, slightly toasty oak. The peppery-spiced finish settles on baking chocolate, roasted nuts, and persistent oak.
St. George has been making American single malt longer than almost anyone else, and the expertise of master distiller Lance Winters and his second-in-command, Dave Smith, shows in this special release. Fragrant strawberries, raspberries, and hop-like tropical notes find a balancing force in nutty malt and assertive oak on both nose and palate. Semi-sweet chocolate, candied orange peel, and fresh lemon and grapefruit peel build additional complexity, with a finish that's sweet and citrus-forward.
A bright and tropical nose, like Mosaic hops, edged with Pine-Sol and undergirded by toasty malt and fresh linen; with time and a touch of water, delicate floral notes take the lead. The palate is bright with citrus, tropical fruit, pine resin, and pink peppercorn, bringing in pleasantly bitter oak at the turn and into the piquant, lemon-soap finish.
A finish in casks that previously held coffee gives this whiskey exactly what it promises: aromas and flavors of coffee beans and other roasty goodness, like dried chiles, barrel char, and cacao nibs. Beneath the barrel, the spirit has a bright tropical character, with grilled pineapple and guava, lime leaf, and lemon and grapefruit peel; fresh pine emerges at the turn and carries through to the finish, alongside citrus oil and ashed tobacco.
An initial maturation in new charred oak gives this American single malt—the first from Tennessee whiskey juggernaut Jack Daniel's—familiar notes of iced tea, blackberries and cola, but the finish in oloroso sherry layers on flavors that are less common in American whiskey: molasses, Raisinets, and the distinct rancio of a Jerez bodega. The overall effect is seamless, each element so well-integrated that no individual part stands out, and it's bound together in a velvety texture that's as soft and inviting as a cozy duvet.
The first American single malt from bourbon behemoth Jim Beam comes out swinging. Bright kiwi, satsuma, pomelo, and honeydew aromas waft over dusty earth and grain. The palate is equally fruity with kiwi, kumquat, watermelon, and freeze-dried strawberry, sprinkled with sweet herbs; water turns it drier and oakier, giving entry to wood spice and pulling tannins. More melon and herbal notes on the dry finish. A strong debut for this new style from master distiller Freddie Noe.
Earthy and fruity on the nose, with cooked apples and pears, guava, mango, cooked grain, Brazil nuts, leather and decaying autumn leaves. Water brings out tobacco, which also shows up in force on the palate, alongside cayenne pepper and fruit in the backseat. More savory tobacco and bitter oak on the medium-short finish. Made at an unnamed East Coast distillery and finished with a proprietary process developed by Next Century Spirits.
A gawky, grain-led nose, with Popsicle stick, cinnamon candy, granola bar, and pancake batter, leads into a rough-hewn palate. There's enough barrel notes to temper some of the more raw-boned flavors with Hot Tamale and Mexican chocolate spices, but the overall effect is still one of immaturity, lacking the polish that additional time in barrel should bring.
Though its recipe changes from year to year, Garryana almost always features a juicy cinnamon note, often accompanied by berries, that comes from partial maturation in its namesake Pacific Northwest oak. The 2022 release shows off cinnamon and red berries with aplomb, starting on the nose, which blooms with perfumy orange blossom, peony and tuberose when water is added. Roasted red apples, semi-sweet chocolate, and lemon peel join the cinnamon-berry of the full-bodied palate, and give way to a rounded finish of sweet cinnamon and chocolate, with slightly charred oak.
Sweet smoked meat, vanilla-scented pineapple, banana pudding and confectioners sugar on the nose, with a delicate floral top note that gets stronger when water is added, evolving into apple blossom and fresh spearmint. Pineapple juice, vanilla, jasmine tea, fresh apricots, and sweet-mineral smoke pervade the palate, with softly fading apple blossom and smoked vanilla on the finish. Delicate in flavor but plush in texture: a pleasing juxtaposition.
Del Bac's signature sweet mesquite meets PX sherry, resulting in a jammy mélange of blackberries, raspberries, blackcurrants, and dried maple syrup, plus leather and chalky minerality on the nose. The palate's densely packed flavors strike a balance between dried and cooked dark fruits and bright citrus oils, also roping in dried rose petals, leathery oak, and very dark chocolate. Cigar wrapper, more leathery oak, and sprinkled dried flower petals on the long finish
As delicate and pretty as a shaft of spring sunshine: dried rose petal, apricot, white grape juice, and scented talcum powder aromas give way to a floral-led palate with chamomile and jasmine, candied rose petal, dried apricot and milk chocolate. Water sends up a burst of cinnamon and pulls in more prominent oak, especially on the finish, which remains structured but delicate: bird's bones of dry and toasty oak, chalky minerality and milk chocolate.
Dry and grain-forward in the best way, with sweet mesquite smoke, hay, salted caramel, candied pecans and Teddy Grahams on the nose. Dry toasted oak laced with sweet, chalky smoke leads the palate, with sea salt caramel, milk chocolate and pops of fruit also in play. The finish is soft and a bit wispy, with chile-laced milk chocolate, tobacco shavings and wafting smoke to the very end.
A well-paced and structured whiskey that brings to mind nothing so much as Whoppers, malty and covered in sweet milk chocolate. But there's more to it, of course: spiced cashews, lemon wedge in iced tea, sweet ripe papaya, and mature oak aromas, and flavors of burnt sugar, lemon oil, barrel char, and muffin batter, with vivid spice character when water is added. It finishes grainy and nutty, with bitter barrel notes and a generous milk chocolate drizzle.
Indie bottler Lost Lantern mostly trades in single casks, but this is a "single distillery blend"—a mix of barrels sourced from Balcones Distillery in Waco, Texas. It starts with a deeply tropical nose, juicy mango, pineapple, guava, passionfruit and jackfruit dripping onto a base of toasted grain. Those notes continue on the big-bodied palate, a cornucopia of tropical fruit that's heavily spiced with ginger, cinnamon, clove, and black pepper. The fruit turns grilled and roasted on the lengthy finish, edged with barrel char and continued spice. Outstanding.
This blend of barrels from Whiskey Del Bac in Tucson could easily rely on sweet smoke and high proof to carry the day, but instead presents a unique, interesting personality that manifests in strong floral character, starting with rose hip, hibiscus, dried flowers and muscadine grape on the nose. More dried flowers and sweet smoke on the mouth-filling palate; water tamps down on heat while adding a spritz of lemon to flavors of roasted meat, peppery spice, dried clay and ash. Savory-sweet smoke and milk chocolate on the medium-long finish.
Though barrel proof, this mesquite-smoked single malt from Santa Fe Spirits is dangerously easy to sip neat. Bakery meets bonfire on the nose: caramel-drizzled vanilla sugar cookies, sprinkled with smoked salt. The spiced, sweet palate mingles smoked vanilla bean with cinnamon, lemon curd-topped shortbread with flaky salt caramels, and balanced, dry oak throughout. A finish of oak, vanilla and smoke that takes its time fading away.
A mingling of multiple barrels from Tucson's Whiskey Del Bac, the distillery's signature mesquite smoke is in full force with plenty of embers and char, but balanced with confectionary aromas of powdered donut and toasted marshmallow, with orange blossom when water is added. On the palate, the generous, billowing smoke injects savory balance onto flavors of lemon and orange jelly candies; both elements show up on the finish, which isn't complex but is full, balancing lemon curd, sweet oak and ashy smoke.
Dominated by candied fruit notes, this could be a divisive whiskey—but it works. Banana Runts, candied mango, and canary melon aromas meet tart counterpoints in sour cherry and green apple candies, tamarind and SweetTarts. The same thing happens on the palate, where unripe mango, banana, bubble gum and blue raspberry encounter the welcome balance of the barrel's dry oak and gentle tannins. Melon and tart fruit candies on the sweet, medium-long finish.
Know up front: This whiskey is all about the cask. If you love sweet, syrupy sherry finishes, you're in for a treat, starting with a nose chock-full of raisins, caramel, Fig Newtons, and maple syrup. The palate is chewy and full but not heavy, packed with raisins, dried figs, dates, dark chocolate, hazelnuts, and integrated spice; a little water opens the door to sharper spice, along with a welcome licorice edge. It's back to super-sweetness for the finish—Sugar Babies, caramel, and milk chocolate. This heavily sherried style will please many drinkers, but leaves this one thirsting for more spirit character.
Made by master distiller Marko Karakasevic at Charbay Distillery, this American single malt boasts an unusual profile that highlights the variety potential of the category. The nose is umami-forward, with clay, cooked mushrooms, and roasted meat, balanced by tropical fruit, cherry pie filling, dark chocolate, and rich caramel sauce; the same umami-fruit juxtaposition continues on the palate, full of stewed plums and dark chocolate, and the meaty heft of hearty stroganoff, enlivened by a squeeze of orange. There's a touch of cloying sweetness on the finish, but it's balanced by the barrel and ongoing earthiness.
A true one-of-a-kind whiskey, this single malt has been "cold peated" using the distillery's proprietary infusion process. Oh, and the peat is from Minnesota—another first. It presents on the nose with baking and wood spices, roasted apples, red berries, and a fragrant, sweet woodsy note; water brings out fresh banana and pineapple. Cinnamon-spiced black tea, spiced oak, Mexican chocolate, roasted walnuts, and woodsy smoke and char on the palate, which is silky in texture; water adds black pepper. Bold oak and roasted nuts on the medium-length finish.
Westland's first whiskey made with Oregon peat shows a deft handling of smoke that's tinged with vanilla and almost floral in its perfuminess, encompassing delicate notes of cashew, green banana, panna cotta, and chalk that start on the nose and continue into the palate. There are also flavors of roasted cinnamon and richer vanilla and cashew when water is added. Rounded and velvety on the finish, with vanilla custard, milk chocolate, lingering cinnamon heat and sweet smoke throughout. Well-structured and balanced, with a unique character that sets a new bar for American peated whiskey.
Blending single malt whiskies from six distilleries, this well-balanced "vatting" starts with aromas of white grape juice, cooked pineapple, honey, earthy grain, roasted spiced nuts, and a faint, slowly drifting sweet smoke. Semi-sweet chocolate, leather, and tobacco lead the palate, with top notes of honey, cinnamon, nutmeg, and dried ginger adding dimension. Dark chocolate Raisinets, cinnamon bark, tobacco and smoky oak on the medium-long finish.
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