When discussing the wines of Alto Piemonte, the subsection of Italy’s Piedmont region that’s north of the famous Langhe, many people reach for the word “renaissance.” But it’s almost impossible not to. In the late 1960s and early 1970s Alto Piemonte was reborn, with DOC status granted to its individual appellations and a major initiative to replant its abandoned vineyards. It meant that Alto Piemonte finally emerged from its own Dark Age, during which 40,000 acres of vines were neglected and destroyed. A chance, at last, to restore glory to a region whose wines–in particular its aromatic Nebbiolos–were beloved by everyone from the Romans to Thomas Jefferson, long before Barolo and Barbaresco became what they are today.

The initial efforts to redevelop the vineyards, which began after the region gained DOC status in 1967, came from the handful of estates that had held on through the region’s hard times: Travaglini, Antoniolo, and Nervi (now Nervi-Conterno) in the commune of Gattinara; Cantalupo in Ghemme; Tenute Sella in Lessona. That these estates are now internationally-recognized names in Italian wine might suggest that Alto Piemonte’s renaissance long ago concluded. But, just as Voltaire once wrote that “it is not more surprising to be born twice than once,” Alto Piemonte was ripe for a second renaissance. This one began in the 1990s. A distinct and not entirely linear transformation from the first, this new phase speaks to today’s breakout wines from Alto Piemonte, and hints at the region’s potential to become, once again, shorthand for some of the most sought-after wines of the world. “The story of Alto Piemonte today is the transition from rusticity to elegance,” says William Bernstein, a New York City-based sales representative for Artisanal Cellars and an independent consultant on Italian wine

It’s a period characterized by new winemakers, some of whom came from elsewhere. They include Swiss-born Christoph Künzli, who took over Antonio Cerri’s Le Piane estate following the winemaker’s passing in 1997, and who is now making some of the Boca appellation’s most definitive wines. Dieter Heuskel, who’s also Swiss, and Peter Napoli, a winemaker from Alto Adige, first purchased a vineyard in Bramaterra in 2004 and expanded to eventually found the Le Pianelle estate. Paolo de Marchi, born in Alto Piemonte, was better known for his family’s legendary Isole e Olena estate in Tuscany; he found his way back to Lessona in 1999 to eventually create Proprietà Sperino, where he produces some of the region’s most acclaimed single-vineyard Nebbiolos. 

This new crop of talent also had the good fortune—perverse as this may sound— of landing during the era of climate change. Cristiano Garella, a partner at both Le Pianelle and Colombera & Garella and a consultant on over 20 estates in the area, says the 1997 and 1998 vintages were “the true first vintages where the alcohol in Nebbiolo in Alto Piemonte was higher than 13%.” A revelation for a region that, due to its proximity to Italian Alps, historically struggled to consistently ripen its grapes. The new conditions also meant that winemakers could work with natural malolactic fermentation to soften Alto Piemonte’s characteristic high acidity. Which was, paradoxically, less common in the 1970s and ‘80s because, according to Garella, the pH in the wines was too low. “Obviously,” he says, “now we are living a different kind of period.”

The more elegant character in the wines of Alto Piemonte is also a reflection of the winemaking choices, with the new producers favoring classically-made wines that represent a sophisticated and cerebral take on the region. Single-varietal expressions of Nebbiolo (locally known as “Spanna”), Vespolina and Croatina and single-vineyard wines within the appellations all create opportunities to connect the wines to a diverse range of terroir. But some of these practices run afoul to the blending requirements baked into the appellations. Bramaterra, Boca, Fara, and Sizzano all mandate that Nebbiolo be blended with other varietals, usually Vespolina and Croatina, or in the case of Boca, Uva Rara. This means that some estates are obligated to label their 100% Nebbiolo with more generic appellations, such as “Coste della Sesia” (referring more broadly to the area to the west of the Sesia river, which can include Gattinara, Bramaterra and Lessona) or “Colline Novaresi” (to the east, which can include Ghemme, Boca, Fara and Sizzano).

Winemakers like Garella, both a peer and a disciple to Alto Piemonte’s new guard, express skepticism of some of the blending logic that was imposed during Alto Piemonte’s rebirth in the ‘60’s and ‘70’s. “I’m not a big fan of putting Croatina in the Nebbiolo. From my point of view, Vespolina is very similar, genetically speaking, to Nebbiolo.” When he does blend, the different varieties are vinified separately and added together during, or even after, the aging process. But he sees his future within Alto Piemonte as one that focuses primarily on Nebbiolo, expressed in a way that reflects the spectrum of what Alto Piemonte has to offer: “different appellations, different soils, different slopes.” 

And the differences are very much present in various Alto Piemonte’s smattering of appellations. Gattinara and Boca sit on opposite sides of the Sesia River, and both boast powerful wines influenced by higher-elevation vineyards and volcanic soils. (Alto Piemonte was the site of a now-extinct super-volcano that erupted 300 million years ago.) But Gattinara has a slightly warmer climate that promotes structured, red-fruited wines often likened to those of Barolo, while Boca’s wines are darker and cooler; the Queen of Spades to the King of Hearts. Further west is the appellation of Lessona, where the well-drained, sandy soils tend to impart more refined flavors, good acidity, and definition. To the east, Ghemme’s wines are generally known for their ethereal prettiness, thanks in part to their cooler climate, but the appellation’s varied soil types provide opportunities for the wines to further distinguish themselves; Ioppa’s single-vineyard ‘Santa Fé’ wine from a particularly clay-rich sub-area is renowned for its power and concentration. 

Nestled between Gattinara and Lessona, Bramaterra has elements of both appellations–its wines are more structured than those of Lessona, but generally less intense than those of Gattinara. To the south of Ghemme are Fara and Sizzano, the appellations with the smallest volume of plantings in the Alto Piemonte consortium. Accordingly the wines can be hard to find in the U.S., for now–but Barbaresco’s Paitin family recently bought a majority stake in the Bianchi winery in Sizzano, perhaps foreshadowing further interest and investment from Langhe. (That’s happened elsewhere in Alto Piemonte, too: the Conterno family in Barolo purchased the Nervi estate in Gattinara in 2018.)

Then there’s Carema, the satellite appellation that’s administratively part of Alto Piemonte but geographically closer to Valle d’Aosta and the Italian Alps. The terrain is treacherously steep, while the vines are grown on pergola-like structures to weather the Alpine winds and gain maximum exposure to the sunlight. At their best, the resulting wines are gorgeously perfumed mountain Nebbiolos that are still grounded in structure and depth. While Carema is currently part of a separate Canavese wine consortium, Alto Piemonte advocates like Garella hope Carema will join them officially in the future.

Yet for all the talk of geography, any understanding of the wines of Alto Piemonte comes back to the individuals making them, and how their wines reflect the opportunities and challenges of a once-abandoned wine region. A wine labeled as Costa della Sesia could be an easy-drinking blend from a bigger estate, or an idiosyncratic 100% Nebbiolo from an ambitious new operation. “Yes, we’re talking about appellations,” says Michael Dolinski, Wine Director of Portale restaurant in New York City’s Flatiron District, where he maintains a separate Alto Piemonte page for his wine list. “But we’re talking about people, too. And the people behind them are as much the story as the small appellations that they’re hoping to resuscitate.” With all the innovation and potential in Alto Piemonte today, one would imagine we’ll only get a greater sense of what the region can offer in the years to come – and with that, more producers, more stories, and more new beginnings. 

ALTO PIEMONTE WINES TO KNOW

2019 Aziendo Franchino Gattinara ($50)

Mauro Franchino founded his namesake winery back in 1967, just before Alto Piemonte’s first revival, He soon garnered a reputation as a local maverick, even though his wines weren’t as internationally known as Gattinara’s big three estates (Nervi, Travaglini, Antoniolo). That’s starting to change, and with Franchino’s young nephew Alberto Raviciotti now at the helm, the estate is bringing new energy and focus to a very old-school style. This Gattinara is serious and structured, with bright red fruit —cherry, cranberry—and grippy tannins.

2017 Ioppa Balsina Ghemme ($54)

Ioppa is one of Garella’s consulting clients, and its family has shifted to organic farming and controlling their yields, with special attention paid to their single-vineyard bottlings. Per the regulations, the Ghemme “Balsina” is an 85/15 blend of Nebbiolo and Vespolina, one with high acidity that shows off the freshness that Ghemme wines can achieve. Crushed berries, rose petals, and a pinch of clove on the nose give way to a smooth and springy palate, one that bears a touch of salinity. As with much serious Nebbiolo, a long decanting is highly recommended. 

2016 Le Pianelle Bramaterra ($60)

In accordance with Bramaterra’s rules, this is a Nebbiolo-based blend with some Croatina and Vespolina. While Nebbiolo still shines here, the blend helps tame some of the grape’s headiness to make for a more approachable wine that’s still bold, robust, and definitely ageable. Lively and juicy, with prominent notes of raspberry and orange peel, and an initial whiff of red pepper that soon dissipates. 

2020 Chiussuma Carema ($74)

Carema is a tiny appellation quite literally in the foothills of the Italian Alps, geographically closer to Valle d’Aosta but administratively part of Alto Piemonte. The wines of Ferrando are arguably the most famous here, but since 2016 Matteo Ravera has been making a name for himself with his old-vine mountain Nebbiolo. This is supremely elegant, boasting a silky texture and a beautiful interplay of floral and concentrated fruit flavors. 

2017 Le Piane Boca ($76)

If the thought of volcanic soils conjures images of darkness and drama, Le Piane’s Boca will not disappoint. The nose is all black fruits (blackberries, black cherries) and dark flowers (violets), while the palate is more umami, with a mineral component coursing all the way through in a way that almost feels effervescent. 85 percent Nebbiolo and 15 percent Vespolina; decant for as long as you can. 

2017 Proprietà Sperino Lessona ($91)

The wines of Lessona are known for their elegance thanks to the higher-altitude vineyards and mineral-rich soils. Proprietà Sperino’s expression delivers on such sophistication, with deeper, brooding flavors of earth and woodland berries that feel–dare we say it–Burgundian. Open a couple of hours before serving if you can.