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What to drink with the main event on Thanksgiving.
Nov 05, 2024
Might as well start by admitting it: pairing wines for Thanksgiving, especially if you’re talking about wines for a traditional Thanksgiving spread, is kind of a nightmare. There is the turkey, which almost always veers toward bland, no matter what you do to it. There is the cranberry sauce, which has enough sugar and acidity to murder almost any wine. There is the sweet potato casserole, which—I’m sorry, I just can’t with the sweet potato casserole. Make mashed potatoes or anything else instead. Anyway. You get my drift.
What this holiday is about is gathering with loved ones, and ideally many of them, to spend a day eating. This is what you want to pair wines with. This is not the time to peer meaningfully and thoughtfully into the brooding Mourvèdric depths of a 25-year-old Bandol, or delve into the mysteries of a perfectly aged Barolo. And yeah, both of those wines would be wildly out of place in the context of Thanksgiving fare, but the greater point is this: you want wines that bring joy, and bring it in an immediate way.
Lead with lighter, lifted wines that disappear quickly. The real key is to open those kinds of bottles, while making sure they also have some smarts and layers to them, to reward those who can appreciate it—and to reward you, because Thanksgiving can teeter on a fulcrum of togetherness and stress, and chances are you’ve been cooking for days and are a bundle of exhaustion and frayed nerves. Consider wines that work for this season of fallen leaves and early dusk, while keeping the tenets of Thanksgiving wines in mind.
Also, in our experience, Burgundy always works. Just choose ones that lean more into pure sensual pleasure over intellectual depths. There is always time for thinkier Burgundies. Just not on Thanksgiving.
We carry a torch for Lambrusco at The New Wine Review. It’s a fantastic pairing with rich meals, and Thanksgiving is no exception. Plus, it will please everyone at the table, and it’s a great by-the-case option if you’re hosting a crowd. This bottle is dry, with lots of juicy red fruit, sweet spices, soft tannins, and refreshing acidity to wash down those cheesy casseroles and buttery potatoes. - Sarah Parker Jang
Is it really Thanksgiving without Beaujolais? It's just such a classic pairing. Gamay is fruity, with high acidity and low tannins, and pairs well with anything on the table: roasted poultry and game, cranberry sauce, and even-—maybe even especially—mac and cheese. For this bottle, fourth-generation winemaker Michel Guignier sources his fruit from older vines, which are mostly in the Morgon cru, and hand-sorts the whole bunches. Made with semi-carbonic maceration, it's a savory, fresh, floral, and fun wine, with nothing tutti-frutti about it. And you'll be hard-pressed to find a Beaujolais as delicious as this at the same price point. - SPJ
Schiava (aka Vernatsch or Trollinger) is a red grape grown in Italy’s northernmost Alto Adige region, that makes lighter, dangerously drinkable wines—exactly the type you need to wash down a 3,000-calorie meal. This one, made at a monastery dating to the 12th century, is floral and herbal, with lots of juicy black cherry, plum, and pepper. - Jason Wilson
If you’re looking for something with a full body but plenty of acidity and food-friendly tannins, this Barbera—from a newer estate with old-school, traditional winemaking sensibilities—will fit the bill nicely. The wine sees no oak, so you get beautiful fresh brambly black and blue fruits in the glass, with aromas of spice, dried herbs, and black earth. - SPJ
Pale yellow shot through with green, and a classic Oz Riesling nose of petrol lifted by lime. A delightful mouthful of fruits—ripe peach and apricot with fruit-nerd fave finger lime riding atop, before a lasting and very crunchy finish. Remarkable balance between the fruit and acidity; while this will likely be the lowest-pH wine on the table, its elements keep the acidity in check—this refreshes and doesn’t sting. A good counterpoint to have on the table, this neat head fake of a wine, for those unaccustomed to how much fun good Australian Riesling can be. - Jon Fine
It might be a little off the map, but Listán Negro from the Canary Islands makes light and savory wines—with surprising tannic structures—that work across the Thanksgiving table. Pale in color, peppery, with great freshness and lively acidity, this one also has just enough tannin to keep things structured and elegant. - JW
A totally obscure Piedmontese grape called Slarina for turkey day? Why not, especially when it’s as juicy and savory a red wine as this one. Aged in concrete, bright and fresh, with red berries, mountain herbs, and just enough tannic structure to pair with the dark meat and gravy. - JW
Thanksgiving is a fine time to bust out the orange wines. This one, a blend of 90 percent Trebbiano with a bit of Ansonica and Malvasia from Tuscany, has just a hint of skin contact and a golden color. Intense nose of pear, flowers, and mint, and a crunchy, savory palate with a subtle tannic structure. - JW
Most know Xarel·lo as the main grape of Cava, but this is a still wine made from the same Catalan variety. From a 40-year-old vineyard, and aged half in concrete and half in oak, this is serious Xarel·lo—precise, full of tension, with layers of minerality. Aromas of blossom, cut flowers, and hints of spice, and a core of saltiness leading to a long finish. It’s a perfect white to cut through the rich Thanksgiving ingredients. - JW
This is your Thanksgiving glou-glou. Winemaker Evan Lewandowski makes this carbonic co-ferment primarily from Arneis, Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo, with a bit of Montepulciano, Vermentino, Trebbiano, and Grignolino as well. Juicy black cherry, redcurrant, cranberry, and allspice. Bright and light-bodied, with just-there tannins that make it a joy to drink with food. - SPJ
Sometimes, a Thanksgiving wine is about being versatile. Which is where clarete, a blend of white and red, comes in. This is a blend of 10 Portuguese varieties, co-fermented in concrete and then aged briefly in a large barrel. The result is fresh, crunchy, and playful, with notes of purple flowers, fresh herbs, licorice, and red berry. Definitely best served chilled. - JW
Why limit yourself to Beaujolais on Thanksgiving? We're also huge fans of Oregon iterations of Gamay, and I especially enjoy this one from winemaker and somm Evan Martin. It’s young and fresh, with notes of blackberry, pomegranate, black pepper, violets, and earth, wrapped around ripe, gentle tannins. - SPJ
Amontillado sherry’s concentrated, nutty flavors pair well with both the sweet and savory elements on the holiday table, and a little will take you a long way. This is one of the freshest, most floral amontillados that I’ve tried (as are all of the sherries from this label, a project that works with different winemakers and terroirs across Jerez). One-hundred percent Palomino, aged 12 years. Toasted walnuts, caramel, dried fruit, with just a hint of residual sugar, and a mineral finish. - SPJ
Hear me out: rosé is pitch perfect for Turkey Day. Especially one, like this tasty 50/50 blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre from cooler sites in the Sierra Foothills, that's seen some maceration rather than simple direct press, which gives the wine more concentrated fruit and body. Tread by foot and then macerated for six hours, it's zesty and saline, with notes of strawberry, rhubarb, cranberry, and subtle baking spices. It will work with everything from the bird to the Brussels sprouts. - SPJ
Scents of cranberries, bright cherries, red berries, and the windswept sand that give these wines their name lead you in. The palate brings you to newer depths—an unusually sweet raspberry intermingled with black cherry, and a just-enough grip on the deeply mineral finish. Sneaky, this one. Has depths beyond its first impression, while still being an accessible-to-all crowd pleaser. Equal parts Carignan, Cinsault, and Zinfandel, from vineyards planted more than 100 years ago. A touch more generous and less tart than prior vintages; a bottling you can always count on for Thanksgiving and, well, pretty much anything else. - JF
If you love orange wine’s affinity for food but you’re nervous to serve one to your less-than-adventurous relatives, this will convert them. Made from 100 percent organically farmed Grecanico—a Sicilian cultivar of Soave’s Garganega—it’s fermented on the skins and aged in amphorae for several months. (“Pithos” is a Greek word for amphora.) Full bodied, with honeyed, floral, and nutty aromas, notes of ripe orchard and stone fruits on the palate, and a mineral finish. Nothing hazy or tannic here, just lovely texture with crisp acidity. - SPJ
If you want to level up from light reds to something bigger, this gorgeous Rioja made from 100 percent Mazuelo (aka Carignan) is a great choice. Full of energy, soft and subtle on the palate, with notes of plum, pepper, violet, and a touch of leather, this one is great for the main event of turkey, stuffing, and gravy. - JW
Pairing dilemmas—like the crazy mashup of Thanksgiving—can often be solved by simply serving a big, full-bodied white. This Loire Chenin Blanc is rich, ripe, and luscious, full of orchard fruit, baking spice, and has a long finish. It’s perfect with the meat, the root vegetables, and everything in between. - JW
Stellar and traditional. Scents of damp earth greet you—a real autumnal vibe. Mouthfilling and slightly broody in a seasonally appealing way. Hits classic dark-fruited Burgundy notes—and the related pleasure circuits in your brain—and shows the benefits of five years of bottle age, while being remarkably gently priced for what it delivers. Far better than any domestic Pinot in the same price range that someone else will bring on Thanksgiving, and is off the beaten path enough to surprise the nerds in the audience, too. The biodynamically farmed fruit here comes from Volnay, Pommard, and the Hautes-Côtes; the Volnay-based Roblet family has roots in that village dating back to the 1600s. - JF
Oh yeah. A very friendly bright cherry nose, and a pure shot of cherry juice on the palate, tinged with cranberry, red berries, and some spicy and herbal notes that add tons of dimension. Very refreshing, and works on many levels. Chill it slightly, but do not mistake this for a generic chilled natural red—this is smart, singular, and has tons of character. One-hundred percent Babić, from 80- to 100-year-old bush vines in the coastal Croatian region of Primošten; produced by a newish domaine that’s well worth keeping an eye on. - JF
Forget a prior generation’s notion that German Pinot Noir is too lean, or too light, or too high-toned. This is straight up delicious juice that is true to Pinot while being equally true to German terroir, and a unique expression of the noble grape that we didn’t know we needed. Some spicy and higher-toned Pinot aromatics mingled with forest floor waft up out of the glass. Fruit without weight, acidity without it screaming at you, great subtlety and pleasure throughout. A knockout. A wine that all but requires you stash a glass of before serving it to a group—because it’s that awesome, and because it will disappear very quickly. - JF
Mondeuse doesn't get enough love as a great Thanksgiving red. It makes dark-fruited, savory wines with brisk acidity that will cut through the fattiest of gravies. This cuvée is from a precipitous vineyard in the Savoie—the name translates to "Hill of Death," but maybe keep that fact to yourself at the dinner table—worked by winemaker Nicolas Ferrand. Sour cherry, dried herbs, rose petals. A little smoke, a little sanguine, and lots of black fruit. - SPJ
Darker-toned fruit on the nose, but the palate leans to red and blue berries, and then many other typical shadings of Pinot come through. A very interesting classic Oregon Pinot at midlife, with excellent complexity. Ends with a really satisfying finish of fruit intermingling with soil and mineral notes. Thanksgiving is a pop-and-pour kind of holiday, but this one benefits from being open for around 30 minutes before serving, or consider a quick decant. - JF
Absolute immediacy on the nose, as is typical with this producer’s open and joyful wines. But this one is subtler, saturnine, and more autumnal than his much-beloved Les Plantes aux Bois, which is why it’s here. More mineral than that cuvée, too, with darker Pinot fruit lurking beneath it. A sneakier effort from this excellent new-school producer who’s more or less put Comblanchien on the map—really cool and interesting stuff. And, as with everything Lienhardt touches, loads of pure red Burgundy pleasure lurk within. - JF
A rich, vinous Champagne will complement every bite on your plate. This is a stunning grower Champagne—a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and a splash of Meunier. The blend is composed of roughly 50 percent reserve wine and sees time in neutral barrels, making a round, opulent wine that, in my opinion, is the best you can buy at this price. Lemon, orange blossom, brioche, vanilla bean, baked apple, almond, and oyster shell, with an ultra-fine mousse that lends a gorgeous texture. - SPJ
Delivers all the pleasure and the immediacy this holiday requires while also being an utter showstopper. Ripe pineapple and tropical nose shot thru with refreshing minerality. Generous fruit and a lovely roundness on the palate, minerality, and a refreshing lime-inflected finish to balance it out. Balances the richness of the Alsatian fruit with a tight mineral and juicy apple frame; a rare Riesling that makes its presence known without residual sugar, or tense acidity, or petrol notes, and a bottle that will carry you through the entirety of Thanksgiving, from the cheese board to dessert. Really stunning stuff. La Rogerie co-owner Justine Boxler’s family gave the world Albert Boxler wines. - JF
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