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Sea spray mingles with scents of warm doughnuts in this legendarily beautiful city
Christy Canterbury MW · Jan 29, 2024
Vancouver has long been an unusually harmonious combination of the urban and natural worlds. Just up the Sea-to-Sky Highway sit the powdery slopes of Whistler and the rock-climbing haven of Squamish. To the northeast sits British Columbia's world-class wine region. “Van” isn’t just about its proximity to natural (or agricultural) wonders, though: it’s one of North America’s most vibrant, cosmopolitan, and downright friendly cities.
What better way to know a great city from the inside than to ask some of its most knowledgeable purveyors of drinks? I spoke with Barbara Philip MW, Category Manager for BC Liquor Stores (and the first Canadian woman to become a Master of Wine), Robert Stelmachuk, Wine Director at the beautiful Mott 32, and Justin Tisdall, owner of Juke Fried Chicken and cocktail haven The Chickadee Room, to get their tips on the best way to see the jewel of Canada’s Pacific coast.
Tisdall: "Start your day at Revolver in Gastown. Pick up some bread or pastries at Livia Sweets. Or go to brunch at Medina Café for baba ghanoush and merguez. (Locals would never stand in line for brunch, but every tourist seems to want to.)"
Philip: "Check out the very happening Hastings Sunrise neighborhood in East Van. There are great flat whites at Doe, and their pain au chocolat and matcha cream cheese muffin are excellent. Or, have brunch at Red Wagon Café. I recommend the Fried Chicken Sandwich or Super Trucker, which piles on eggs, pancakes, home fries, toast, pork belly and pulled pork!"
Stelmachuk: "Go outdoors on a good day. Take an early morning hike on the North Shore on the Quarry Rock Trail. You literally take off from someone's driveway. This trail is great because it's only one hour round trip, and has a good view at the end. Then you've earned a reward in Deep Cove at Honey Doughnuts and Goodies." [Tisdall recommends the maple flavor.]
Tidall: "Get in some adventure. There’s the huge Capilano Suspension Bridge. Or climb the Grouse Grind Trail. It only takes an hour and you get great views—all of Vancouver, even Washington State on a good day—and all kinds of activities are up there, along with a bar and restaurant. They usually have good local, small-batch brews, like House of Funk, Superflux, Steel & Oak. Then take the cable car down."
Stelmachuk: "It's nice to walk by the seawall [the city’s waterfront path]. But it's busy. The UBC Endowment Lands are less crowded, and good for strolling."
Philip: "Don't miss snacks at Dachi! They have a constantly changing menu, depending on what's fresh and interesting. You can take away all of their natural wines from their bottle shop, too."
Stelmachuk: "Meander down to Granville Island. Lots of food kiosks and local breweries. There's Osake, a sake brewery, too. You can taste and watch them make it right in front of you."
Tisdall: "On Granville, don't miss Oyama. They're the specialty cured meats guys. Everything is high end. Plus, there's Lee's Donuts, the city’s first artisanal doughnut shop. Everyone trains at Lee's before they open their own place. Go for the glazed cake doughnuts. Kids also love the birthday cake doughnut."
Philip: "Browse Public Myth for locally-made workout clothes—it is Vancouver, after all. Then head to the Museum of Anthropology at UBC. It's excellent. They're doing some seismic upgrades now, but they offer guided tours on specific days called ‘MOA Unmasked’. When the museum re-opens fully, go see the collections that focus on the works and history of BC's indigenous peoples."
Tisdall: "Get in some retail therapy on Robson Street. Reigning Champ is a young Vancouver brand with high-end athletic attire. Too many of my clothes come from them."
Stelmachuk: "The original flagship store of the Hill family that started (Vancouver-based) Aritzia is Hill's of Kerrisdale. It's a nice mix of an old boutique store with modern flair. Jewelry, clothing, tchotchkes, candles, socks—great little spot. Go to Mountain Equipment Company—we'd say "MEC"—in Olympic Village for anything hiking, camping, kayaking, biking. After you're done at MEC, head to Faculty Brewing. They've got a kick-ass turmeric ale with ginger."
Tisdall: "The Pacific comes in at the seawall. Tons to see. Maybe ballroom dancing on the beach or some live music. Or go to the big saltwater swimming pool at Kits Beach—especially with kids—if you're here in August."
Stelmachuk: "If you're staying in for dinner, zip off to Steveston. You can buy fish and uni right from the boats that just came in. Get some ocean breeze into your lungs, too. Then do some wine shopping. Marquis Wine Cellars has a super helpful staff with a really eclectic selection. They bring in different wines and spirits that you can't find elsewhere. It's not just BC wines."
Tisdall: "Hit the Botanist Bar at the Fairmont Pacific Rim—best cocktail bar in Vancouver and one of the best in Canada, too."
Stelmachuk: "Do happy hour somewhere between 3-6 pm. Lots of good ones. I was just at a new place called The Watson—really thoughtful cocktails and a great room."
Philip: “To experience BC Wines, Stem has the best curated list, but The Belgard Kitchen always keeps an interesting selection, too.”
Stelmachuk: “Provence Marinaside in Yaletown has a good BC list.” [And the wine bar has 125 wines available by the glass.]
Tisdall: "My money is on Published on Main. Gus—the chef—makes incredible food. Lots of one-or-two biter snacks—like the potato agnolotti with house-made kielbasa. And their cocktails are always good. There’s also Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie. My wife and I always go there. It's a really unique room with excellent service. Go for pork bao buns, fried rice, some of their pork belly. Their cocktail menu is constantly changing—there’s always a discovery."
Stelmachuk: "So many places that aren't on the mainstream path! Go for hot pot somewhere, like Haidilao or The Dolar Shop. ¿Cómo? Taperia is an excellent little Spanish spot with delicious food—the canned tuna, the patatas bravas. Wash it all down with their great sherries. And a few doors down is Zarak. It's Afghan—braised meats, braised eggplant, really creative cocktails."
Stelmachuk: “Well, Vancouver does sleep.”
Tisdall: "It's the one thing that I do wish Vancouver would do—go out late. There is Calabash, which is Caribbean. Downstairs a DJ spins reggae and there's dancing. Good drinks, too. There's also The Kiefer Bar in Chinatown.
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