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Let our comprehensive survey of category-defining bottles help broaden your horizons.
Susannah Skiver Barton · Jan 04, 2024
The first time I tried scotch, I hated it. While I was visiting a friend in Scotland, her dad poured me a glass of Famous Grouse, which tasted hot and harsh to my youthful palate.
A few years later, I found myself living in Edinburgh and decided to give scotch another go. To my delight, I found that I actually quite liked it.
The dram that changed my mind was Balvenie DoubleWood, a 12-year-old single malt with a sherry cask finish. Mellow and sweet, it opened up the entire world of scotch for me, kickstarting a journey that would eventually lead to my role as a whiskey writer and critic.
It was, in other words, my gateway whiskey.
“Gateway” whiskies are, essentially, starter whiskies — the pours or bottles that ignite one’s enjoyment and lead to deeper exploration of a certain type of whiskey (or of whiskey altogether). I first heard the term when I tried that Balvenie, and it's now a common concept among whiskey lovers.
A good gateway whiskey serves as an introduction to a particular style or region. It’s well-made and displays the key virtues and characteristics of its category. It should be available and affordable (at least, relative to other whiskies like it), but not an outlier in terms of price. It should be sufficiently delightful and intriguing that it encourages further exploration within the category, but not so exquisite that its qualities can’t be found among many of its peers. If you enjoy a gateway whiskey, you’re in luck, because behind it stands a whole group of whiskies like it that you’re bound to like, too.
Since my initial foray into single malt scotch, I’ve come to believe there are great gateway bottles for just about every style across the whiskey spectrum. So here’s my list, if you’re looking to branch out and fall in love with the charms of a new whiskey style.
Straight bourbon: Bourbon that’s at least two years old and untampered with is a rich vein to tap. There are three broad styles of bourbon, each of which deserves its own gateway whiskey: standard (heavy corn/light rye), high-rye and wheated.
Beyond the confines of the straight designation lies the wide field of barrel-finished bourbon, where aging in new charred oak is followed by a secondary maturation in another kind of cask — anything from sherry or port to rum, brandy or tequila. Angel’s Envy ($50) is the OG here, melding the ripe red fruit and velvety tannins of ruby port with rich, sweet bourbon into a seamless whole.
Barrel-proof bourbon shouldn't be anyone's first step into whiskey — the high alcohol content will burn a novice palate long before it detects any flavors — but there's likely to come a point when you're ready for it. When you are, look for Stellum ($55), made by the same talented blending team behind Barrell Bourbon; it's balanced and flavorful with expected boldness while avoiding too-tannic, mouth-stripping heat.
The elder cousin to bourbon, straight rye shares many of the same tasting notes but tends to be spicier, more herbal, and sometimes more floral or fresh. Like bourbon, there are a few broad rye styles, including Kentucky-style — usually made with the minimum required amount of rye (51%) — and what we might call Indiana-style, made with the 95% rye recipe that originated with and was popularized by MGP Distillery in Indiana.
For a long time, just two distilleries comprised the Tennessee whiskey category — and, let's face it, only one really counted. That's not the case anymore, as Tennessee whiskies have proliferated over the last 15 years on the back of the craft distilling revolution. But the style is still defined by its two leading producers.
The diverse flavors found in scotch make it difficult to narrow down entry points, but splitting the category into its two main components — blends and single malts — is a good place to start.
In theory, blended scotch can be as varied as a blender's imagination. But in reality, most blends hew to a smooth and mellow profile, with the biggest variance found in smoke level. So here’s a gateway at each end of the smoke spectrum:
Single malt scotch tends to be more diverse in flavor and character than its blended brethren. There are almost endless gateway whiskies here, depending on what direction you want to take.
Cask-finished single malt scotch is a world unto itself, and theoretically endless in its variations, although most finishes occur in just a few cask types.
As with scotch, blended Irish whiskey makes up the bulk of its home country’s production. You’re likely familiar with a little brand called Jameson, which is far and away the bestselling Irish whiskey in the world. But there's a lot more to the category nowadays, as new producers proliferate and turn to contemporary trends, like barrel finishing, for their unique iterations.
Ireland’s signature whiskey style, single pot still, once nearly died out but is enjoying a resurgence. Most brands on the shelf still come from one mega-distillery, Midleton, which kept the flame burning during the dark years. Powers Three Swallow ($48) and Green Spot ($52) both showcase the style's signature creamy body and spicy flavors, derived from unmalted barley.
Irish single malt is made throughout the Emerald Isle, though in far fewer variations than its Scottish counterpart.
Of all whiskey styles, Canadian is most deliberately designed for easy entry, with the majority of modern offerings hitting a light-and-sweet profile many find to be smooth and gentle. If that’s what you’re looking for, you can dive into any number of affordable, ubiquitous mainstream brands such as Crown Royal or Canadian Club.
But if you’re worried about getting bored, especially if your palate is used to more complex pours, there are three excellent gateway whiskies from the Great North that feature a profile representative of the country's more robust styles.
Japan’s whisky industry largely has followed scotch trends, so Japanese blends make up a large proportion of the shelf. Many have traditionally included — and still include — imported whisky from Scotland, Ireland and elsewhere, a tradition that has been shrouded in secrecy but recently began coming to light.
Japanese single malt is the most prized of the country’s whiskies, and usually quite expensive; even the most widely available options, like old standbys Yoichi and Yamazaki, run well over $100. With that in mind, if you decide to wade in, the quality is uniformly high.
A new style has emerged from Japan in the last decade: koji whisky. Made using ancient production techniques, the whisky’s base grain can be rice, barley or a mix of both. It's a highly aromatic style with delicate structure and novel flavors.
There are many gateways to American single malt (ASM), which is, flavor-wise, the most diverse whiskey being made in the U.S. today. Although the average price per bottle tends to be higher than bourbon or rye, the most established distilleries have matured enough that they've actually brought prices down. As the category evolves, certain styles are starting to coalesce.
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