As spring gets into gear and the sunshine slowly starts to spread its gentle warmth across the Northern Hemisphere, it’s perhaps inevitable that attentions turn toward rosé wine. And the rosé revolution of the last decade, in which serious rosé is closing in on winning the kind of respect once only accorded to the best red and white wines of the world, has been nothing short of remarkable. 

But all along, there have been bastions where pink wines were always considered serious wine. Perhaps none more so than a small, southern corner of the Rhône Valley.

Along the right bank of the Rhône river lies Tavel, a charming village that’s one of the most well-remembered wine regions by wine students for its unusual distinction: it only produces rosé wine under its AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée), which was established in 1936. A little less than 900 hectares are planted. To the west lies limestone, where many old vineyards produce wines of depth and freshness. Around the village directly are the original, rocky, sandy soils, where the majority of production lies, and to the east are the smooth, round galet stones of Châteauneuf-du-Pape fame, as you head towards Avignon.

The main distinction of Tavel rosé, however, is its deep color and substantial presence on the palate. It’s often said that Tavel is the fourth wine—sitting somewhere in between rosé and red. Given that it shares a similar medley of grape varieties as neighboring Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the same warm, Mediterranean climate, it’s no wonder that the wines here are something of a mouthful. 

This is more than just a happy accident. The salmon-pink wines of Provence are typically pressed in whole bunches, with minimal skin contact and produced at very low temperatures in order to retain freshness and minimize oxidation. Traditionally, Tavel usually undergoes a lengthy, cool maceration process whereby the skins are broken, the grapes are chilled, and the wine is allowed to macerate with the juice for up to 72 hours before fermentation begins. 

Extended time spent on the skins, plus an occasional dose of press wine, makes for a powerful style of wine that often exceeds 14 percent ABV. The wines are often aged in older barrels and exposed to oxidative winemaking procedures far more akin to red wine production. The results are glorious. And most importantly, in an increasingly homogeneous world: different.

Sadly, many producers in Tavel often lost their way over the last 90 years. In the past, Tavel was almost certainly more of a light red wine than a rosé. The style has evolved to be something more akin to a modern pink wine. In some cases, wines have evolved too far in this direction, and share a kinship with many of the more generic pink wines of the world. 

The expansion of Tavel’s historical boundaries and size in the 1960s made for a rollercoaster of changes, not least a focus on producing more profitable, red Côtes du Rhône wines from the newer vineyards and losing a focus on what made the region so established in the first place. The better producers continued their journey, but lost visibility and the wines became a local affair, only occasionally discovered by curious travelers and wine lovers passing through.

As is so often the case, it took a single spark to reignite the flame. In 2002, a beekeeper who had always sold his grapes to a local cooperative decided to concentrate on producing his own wines instead, from old vineyards on the original rocky soils of Tavel. 

This was Eric Pfifferling, whose incredible portfolio of wines at Domaine de l’Anglore has made him a legend not only in Tavel, but in the natural wine world as well. His seven hectares of vines are managed by hand, and entirely without chemicals. The wines are managed at a very low level of intervention in the winery: no yeast, added enzymes, or sulfur is used. They marry the soul of Tavel, in its opulent glory, to a natural freshness and verve that is hard to find in such warm regions. Unsurprisingly, the wines are now sold almost exclusively on allocation and the prices have increased dramatically since they first burst onto the scene in the early 2000s.

So famous did the wines become that, in many drinker’s eyes, they became synonymous with the region. Yet many of Tavel’s older producers are still making the same deep, soulful wines they were decades ago, and the extra light shone onto the region is finally unearthing some of its very best. 

Gaël Petit’s family history in Tavel traces back to the 16th century. His great-grandfather was a founding member of the original AOC in 1936. “The cellar is full of old foudres and the smell of the past,” Bernat Voraviu, the head sommelier of Alkimia in Barcelona, Spain, and an importer of the wine, tells me. “This is old-school Tavel, like it always was.” 

It’s hard to argue while tasting the wine. La Combe des Rieu is exactly how I imagine Tavel once tasted; deep, fluid, soulful and so richly textured you can almost feel the kiss of the sun. Yet it's not overdone in any way. It’s simply a wine that is true to itself, and all the better for it.

“Domaine l’Anglore did wonderful things for Tavel, but it’s important to know that [the region] is so much more than one producer,” says Bernat. “Some of the original greats are still here producing wine like this, and more and more producers are looking back to these older, more intuitive ways of working.” 

Château de Trinquevedel is another such producer. It was first established in 1936 as one of the original châteaux of the newly minted appellation, and now spans 32 hectares of old vines across various soils. Hand harvesting is de rigueur here, and much emphasis is placed on preserving the indigenous yeasts which are essential in showcasing the wild florality of Tavel. 

In a world where everyone and everything is competing in the marketplace of attention, there is no greater find than integrity, honesty, and understated beauty. Tavel may be a small region, but being overlooked for the last 20 years has arguably done its best producers a favor. They now emerge into a world of wine that is looking for exactly what they're producing.

Tavel Producers and Wines Worth Searching For

Domaine de l’Anglore Tavel ($98)

The benchmark wine from Domaine de l’Anglore and undoubtedly the most famous Tavel wine in the world. Bright, perfumed, and lifted. Gorgeous strawberry, pomegranate, and rose petals on the nose, and so delicately chalky and vibrant on the palate. A special rosé. Believe the hype.

Gaël Petit La Combe des Rieu ($40)

La Combe des Rieu is exactly how I imagine Tavel must have tasted in the 1930s; deep, fluid, and soulful. The texture here screams of warm climates, but the palate is remarkably fresh and layered. Fruits of the forest, a touch of bramble, and earthy spices, all carried by broad, persistent acidity.

Château de Trinquevedel Les Vignes d'Eugène ($15)

A watermelon-pink, complex, and delicately savory wine from 80-year-old vines of Grenache, Syrah, and Clairette. Rhubarb and berries, garrigue and rosemary; it’s enough to make you wish you sat in the warm sunshine with nothing more than a glass of this, some homemade bread, and a bowl of freshly made aioli.

Domaine de la Mordorée La Reine des Bois ($40)

A relatively unknown gem from deep in the heart of Tavel, the so-called “Queen of the Woods” cuvée is produced from the oldest vines of Grenache, Syrah, Clairette, and Cinsaut. Ripe cherry, orange rind, hints of vanilla, and crème brûlée. Tangy yet intense, with an almost salty twist to the finish. Delicious.

Château de Manissy Cuvée des Lys ($14)

As classically Tavel as it gets; bold, deep, and weighty. Ripe strawberries, watermelons, and delicate spices on the nose, but the beauty is all in the texture and the subtle weight on the palate. Superbly balanced.