Savoie’s history is as rugged as its mountains, where snow-capped peaks soar into the sky, their majesty dwarfing human concerns. These dramatic heights cradle wine communes such as Apremont and Chignin, creating stunning vineyards, alpine meadows, and glacial streams that cut through the land like veins of ice. But for most of the 20th century, wine here was consumed by locals, sold in ski chalets, or poured in rustic taverns alongside dishes like fondue and raclette. This humble reputation persisted, long overshadowed by the neighboring, more glamorous Jura or the larger-scale production of the Rhône Valley. Savoie wines were often seen as rustic, even austere. 

Yet its geological tapestry is unmatched: limestone from ancient seas, moraines from glacial retreats, and fossil-rich Leithakalk formations. This varied terrain gives rise to an equally diverse array of indigenous grapes: Jacquère, Altesse, Mondeuse, and the nearly extinct Gringet, Douce Noir, and more. These varieties offer a glimpse into a past unmarred by international trends. They embody the essence of the Alps.

The Trailblazer

To understand the modern face of Savoie’s wine, it helps to look back to the visionary work of people like Michel Grisard. Starting in 1971 at his family winery, Grisard was not just another winemaker; he was a monument in the world of Savoie viticulture. He’s the reason that many of the local varieties still exist—like the region’s signature red grape Mondeuse. In 1982 he purchased Prieuré Saint Christophe. His decision in 1994 to convert his six-hectare estate to biodynamics marked the beginning of a revolution, and established the region as a haven for terroir-driven wines. Previously, Savoie was known for hastily produced, utility-focused wines aimed at fleeting ski season demand, often reflecting an international style over regional character.

Grisard’s commitment to preserving the purity of the land through organic and biodynamic practices began to change that narrative. By vinifying his grapes without the use of chemical interventions, Grisard created wines that reflected the unique terroirs of Savoie. His Mondeuse reds, in particular, stood apart for their elegance and nuance, a stark contrast to the overly extracted, heavyweight styles that formerly dominated. These were wines of finesse, showcasing balance and a profound sense of place.

His influence extended beyond his estate, inspiring a new generation of winemakers who would take up his mantle. Among them are the Giachino brothers, who took over Grisard’s estate in 2015. They were committed to maintaining the legacy of a man whose vision had made a lasting impact on the Savoie wine scene. The wines that bear the Grisard name today still echo his philosophy: a devotion to the land, a respect for the environment, and a belief that wine should be an authentic reflection of its place of origin.

New Faces

I approached Savoie wines as a skeptic when I visited the region recently. My past experiences had left me indifferent; I, too, dismissed them as little more than simple whites for an après-ski crowd. I’d come to visit my friend Roland Benedetti. Roland, a native of Savoie, unknowingly grew up surrounded by winemaking icons of the region—they were friends of his late father, Livio Benedetti, a famous local sculptor. Roland now lives in the U.S., where he champions Alpine wines through his import company, Living Wine, though he still spends time in the Savoie.

The first crack in my skepticism came at L’Aitonnement, the tiny domain of Maxime Dancoine in Aiton. Aiton is perched at the gateway to the Maurienne Valley, where steep, sun-drenched terraces overlook the Isère River. As I walked through his vineyards, I was struck by the steepness and energy of the place. Jagged slopes made the landscape feel harsh and unforgiving. The mountains loomed above, their imposing presence a constant companion, making it clear that the land might—might—permit you to farm it, but only if you truly earn it. 

Maxime has devoted himself to local varieties and rediscovering forgotten ones like Douce Noir, Blanc de Maurienne, Joubertin Noir, Mondeuse Grise and Mondeuse Blanc. “This was almost extinct,” Maxime said, as he poured me some of his Douce Noir from a pipette. The wine carried a lively acidity that made it almost electric. It felt alive, a red that could only come from here.

From Aiton, we took the road to Chignin, which wound past steep vineyards and picturesque chalets, each turn revealing vistas more breathtaking than the last. In Apremont, I visited Axel Domont, a rising star in the region, and a former Tour de France cyclist who turned to wine after a terrible cycling accident ended his career. Roland had to leave and left me alone with Axel who doesn't speak English. Yet his passion transcended language. Thanks to Google Translate, I understood how deeply he reveres the limestone-rich terroirs of Chignin.

Axel, once an outsider, found inspiration from natural wine pioneers like Jean-Yves Péron and Corentin Houillon. With support from Nicolas Ferrand at Domaine des Côte Rousses, who provided production space and supplies, Axel began to make wine. He sources fruit from rented vines and neighbors, all organically or biodynamically farmed.

In his tasting room, we mostly communicated through the language of wine in the glass. His Jacquère, called “Kilometre 0,” was crystalline, a reflection of the pure alpine air, with minerality that mirrored the glacial rocks beneath the vines. He also shared his “Rencontres,” made from Mondeuse, a grape he called “Savoie’s red soul”—if I understood him correctly. Deeply colored and aromatic, it offered layers of wild berries, violets, and a distinct spiciness. (Axel vinifies with stems.)

At dinner that night, Roland and I opened a bottle from Louis Magnin to pair with a simple chicken dinner. It was his 2017 Rousette de Savoie, and I savored every sip. “He’s one of the old-school guys who really knows how to make great wine,” Roland said. I nodded in agreement, impressed by the wine’s balance and depth.

The next day we traveled to Ayze in Haute-Savoie, home to one of the region’s rarest grapes: Gringet. This variety, long confused with Savagnin, thrives in Ayze’s cooler, wetter climate, where the towering Mont Blanc massif casts its shadow. We visited Vincent Ruiz, who recently took over Domaine Belluard after Dominique Belluard, a pioneer in Savoie viticulture and arguably its most world-famous winemaker, took his own life in 2021. 

Belluard had spent decades championing Gringet, crafting sparkling and still wines that put Ayze on the map. After his untimely death, his wife asked friends, like Jean-François Ganevat from Jura, to vinify the wines from their vineyard, until Vincent and his partners took over and renamed the winery Domaine du Gringet. 

He greeted us warmly, his demeanor grounded despite the weight of his undertaking. In the cellar, we tasted from every concrete egg and tank—a sensory revelation and one of the most impressive tastings I’ve experienced. Each wine radiated elegance, yet carried a tension and complexity that rivaled the best white wines in the world. Common threads emerged: slight reduction, crisp apple, alpine herbs, and a salinity reminiscent of snowmelt rushing through the region’s streams.

A final affirmation of the excellence of Savoie’s new wave happened while visiting Camille and Matthieu Apffel, a dynamic young couple redefining the region’s winemaking narrative. Their wines, which I’ve long admired for their exceptional value, consistently stand out as some of the most compelling expressions of the area. Nestled in the hills near Seyssel, their domaine embodies the cutting edge of Savoie’s evolving wine scene. Camille and Mathieu bring a balance of creativity and meticulous craftsmanship to their work, producing wines that are deeply rooted in authenticity.

Their Altesse was a revelation: textured, aromatic, and brimming with notes of herbs, honey, and citrus zest. Mathieu explained that Altesse, also known as Roussette, thrives in Seyssel’s silty soils, where it develops the floral complexity and creamy texture that make it one of Savoie’s hidden gems.

A Changing Climate, A Changing Reputation

Later that evening, Roland elaborated on Savoie’s growing appeal. “The modern palate appreciates verticality—wines that are light yet complex, with good acidity. That’s Savoie’s strength,” he said. The region’s cool climate, once seen as a challenge, now serves as a safeguard against the effects of global warming that are slamming other regions.

Yet the region’s success isn’t just about climate—it’s about identity. The new generation of winemakers is as focused on preserving Savoie’s heritage as they are on innovating. Savoie’s vintners aren’t just environmentally conscious farmers experimenting with natural winemaking. They display perseverance and grit. Cultivating steep, unforgiving slopes with obscure grape varieties is a challenge. Selling those wines to the world takes equal parts determination and artistry.

What struck me most about Savoie was the sense of place. The Alps don’t just define the region’s terroir, but its people. Winemakers here are grounded, resilient, and profoundly connected to the land. Their wines reflect this connection: honest, unpretentious, and deeply expressive of the alpine environment. Like the Alps themselves, they leave you humbled and eager for more.

Savoie Wine Recommendations

2022 Camille & Mathieu Apffel Avant la Tempête ($30)

The Apffels craft some of the best wine values anywhere. This stands out with its dynamic balance of floral and citrus notes, paired with a soft creaminess from its time on lees. The wine's structured acidity gives it energy, while a delicate herbal finish hints at its alpine roots.

2022 Axel Domont Kilometre 0 ($35)

Axel Domont's natural expression of Jacquère shines with its crystalline purity, offering fresh green apple, lemon zest, and a touch of alpine herbs. The wine's precision and mineral-driven character reflect the region's unique terroir, while a persistent, saline finish adds depth and complexity.

2015 Domaine Louis Magnin Arbin Mondeuse ($35)

This delivers a bold yet elegant profile with ripe dark fruit, subtle spice, and a touch of violet. The wine is structured and balanced, with a fine tannic grip and a complex, layered finish that reflects what Savoie does best—a combination of power and grace.

2022 Damien Bastian Ça boit Libre Mon Blanc ($39)

This reveals a layered bouquet of crisp white fruit, honeysuckle, and wet stone. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with an underlying minerality and a zesty finish, making it a quintessential expression of the Savoie region's cool climate. Pair with cheese for a hedonistic experience.

2020 Jean-Yves Péron Côtillon des Dames ($54)

This Altesse and Jacquère blend is essentially an orange wine, which sees up to three weeks on the skins. It enchants with its expressive bouquet of poached peach, herbs, and a subtle touch of earthiness. The wine’s bright acidity and mineral backbone provide a refreshing contrast to its dusty tannins, making it elegant and substantial.

2020 Domaine Belluard Monsieur Gringet ($55)

A wine of remarkable depth and complexity, with aromas of citrus zest, alpine flowers, and a distinct mineral edge. The palate is clean and precise, with vibrant acidity that lifts the wine’s floral and herbal notes, culminating in a lingering, refreshing finish.

2021 Domaine Partagé Gilles Berlioz Les Filles ($65)

A stunning expression of Chignin-Bergeron, with aromas of ripe nectarine, honey, and white flowers. The palate is textured and rich, yet balanced by crisp acidity, with a long, mouthwatering finish that highlights the wine’s minerality and the cool alpine influence.

2022 Domaine L'Aitonnement Solar ($89)

Maxime Dancoine's Solar is an intriguing Altesse showing vibrant acidity and rich texture, with aromas of citrus, lemongrass, and a touch of spice. The wine's lively energy is matched by a savory depth.

2014 Domaine Prieuré Saint Christophe Tradition Mondeuse ($395)

This rare bird bursts with the vivid freshness of alpine herbs and forest berries, balanced by a refined minerality that speaks to its rocky terroir. Subtle and elegant, with melting tannins, while a delicate yet persistent finish leaves a lasting impression of purity and elegance.