“Organic” is a simple enough concept. It means that the cucumbers in your salad or the bananas in your smoothie were farmed without the use of certain pesticides, herbicides, fertilizers, and their ilk. For wine, organic certification may set a maximum sulfite level or require that no sulfur can be added. Regulation in the United States typically sets conditions for yeast and storage, as well as the grapes themselves. That’s why you might see “made from organic grapes” on a label, but not an actual certification.

The considerations for organic whiskey—which is usually certified on an annual basis through a process that relies primarily on inspections and record-keeping—can be a bit more involved. Farming grain organically is straightforward. But unlike grapes that get pressed just after harvest, grain has to be stored and, sometimes, malted—steps that add extra work into the organic certification process for a whiskey, since storage and malting facilities also have to be inspected and verified.

Various certifying bodies have different rules. Some require just the grain to be organic, while others put strictures on yeast. The Biodynamic Association, which certifies Nc’nean single malt scotch, dictates that yeast be non-GMO. But Alex Buck, founder of Warfield Distillery in Ketchum, Idaho, says that finding an organic whiskey yeast is nearly impossible. (The USDA, which provides the organic certification for Warfield’s spirits, allows distilleries to use conventional yeast as long as they can show, via emails to suppliers, that there is no commercial organic yeast available.)  

The barrel is typically not considered an ingredient in whiskey, so in most cases, certifying bodies don’t require that it be organic too, though at Nc’nean, the casks are rinsed before being filled. But Benromach Distillery, certified by the Soil Association, takes the extra step and matures its Organic single malt in organic new oak casks.

Overall, making organic whiskey is an expensive proposition. Buck notes that the cost per pound of organic malt is double that of conventional grain. There’s the cost of certification itself, which can be thousands of dollars. And there are costs that come with all the extra documentation and—in facilities that also make non-organic products—cleaning. Warfield makes beer as well, which is not certified organic. When they switch over to producing organic spirits, Buck has to first run organic grains through the grain augur and mill and then discard them, just to ensure the integrity of the products.

But for organic whiskey makers, the effort and expense are worth it. Organic farming has noted environmental benefits. Laboratory analysis shows that organically farmed grain has lower levels of various unwanted chemicals than its conventional counterpart. In many cases, organic options come from outside the commodity grain system. The varieties might not be heirloom, but they’re non-GMO and often show markedly different flavor compared to conventional grain.

And some distillers, like Nc’nean, claim all of this impacts the final flavor of the whiskey. Others, like Buck, admit that “it’s hard to say.” Organic or not, making great whiskey is paramount to every distiller. But the benefits of going organic, especially for drinkers looking to lower their own consumption impact, make it a worthwhile pursuit at any cost.

Seven Superb Organic Whiskies from Scotland, Ireland, and the United States

Nc’nean ($90)

Not only organic, but carbon-neutral, Nc’nean is located on a wild peninsula extending into the North Atlantic. The distillery is B Corp-certified and fully sustainable—a first for Scotland. Single malt is distilled from Scottish barley and matured in ex-bourbon, Oloroso sherry, and STR (shaved, toasted, recharred) wine casks. It’s a compact, flavorful whisky that emphasizes lemon, toasted nuts, and a pleasing edge of savory oak.

Bruichladdich Organic Barley 2012 ($88)

Most of Bruichladdich’s whisky is made with conventional grain, but this one, aged for 10 years, uses organic barley farmed in Inverness. This single malt is vintage-dated because, given the vagaries of agriculture and the small scale of organic barley farming, a bad harvest could mean the distillery has to skip a year. Like all Bruichladdich matured in ex-bourbon casks, it’s bright and slightly saline, with plenty of citrus and vanilla.

Benromach Organic 2011 ($55)

The first scotch to be certified organic (in 2006), and one of the best examples of a single malt matured in new oak. Unlike other Benromach whiskies, this one is unpeated, the better to allow the barley full expression of its malty, biscuity nature. At nine years old, it’s got pep in its step but shows sufficient maturity and a character that’s utterly distinct—a hallmark of this small, totally-hands-on distillery.

Waterford Gaia ($80)

This Irish distillery, dedicated to single malt made from all Ireland-grown barley, was founded by the man who led Bruichladdich’s revival, Mark Reynier. He emphasized organic and biodynamic grains whenever possible, which allowed Waterford to craft this “cuvée” of whiskies, made from liquid of different ages and grain origins. It’s an intriguing single malt, sweet and dessert-like with heaps of milk chocolate, sugared nuts, and jammy plum. And if you’re into collecting, it’s likely to appreciate, as Waterford closed after going into receivership last year.

Hidden Barn Organic Wheated Bourbon ($86)

Jackie Zykan, formerly of Old Forester and one of the best blenders in the United States, is one part of the team that creates Hidden Barn. The brand primarily uses whiskey from Neeley Family Distillery, which is certified organic. But in this case, the bourbon was initially made at Journeyman in Michigan before being moved to Neeley for its final maturation period. It’s six years old and barrel proof at 53.1% ABV.

Bainbridge Yama ($576)

Made just a short ferry ride from Seattle on Bainbridge Island, this whiskey is distilled from Alba and Full Pint barley grown organically on Washington farms. It’s aged for at least five years in Japanese mizunara oak casks, the only American whiskey to hold that distinction. And despite being 100-percent barley, the whiskey is not a single malt, because the grain isn’t malted before fermentation and distillation. It all adds up to a unique flavor and character, with mizunara’s hallmark sandalwood and incense wafting thickly through a body of toasted coconut and spice.

Warfield Organic American Whiskey ($90)

The Idaho distillery uses organic specialty malts—in this case, pale and crystal malts—for its flagship whiskey, aged in used bourbon barrels. The flavor is malt-forward and sweet, with vanilla and coconut notes mingling with baking spices. Warfield is also a brewery, and its expertise in fermentation shows in the whisky’s clean, clear structure.