Barbaresco should be more popular among American wine drinkers than it is. Why it’s not is a matter of numerous factors, including decades of gatekeeping, as I detailed in yesterday’s commentary. Barolo, of course, still remains the most prestigious region for Nebbiolo, and the common wisdom is that you must wait years for these top wines to be ready to drink. But here’s something the gatekeepers have been slow to tell you: Things in Italy’s Piedmont region—particularly the climate—are changing.

The common wisdom on Barbaresco has always been that it’s more “approachable,” with more “finesse” and “elegance,” yet with less “power” and “ageability” than Barolo. Barbaresco has always had less aura around it than Barolo. Consequently, it’s also generally less expensive.

Given how the climate is changing our old definitions of Barolo—and given its current prices—wine buyers would do well to take a deeper look at Barbaresco. If you love Nebbiolo, do yourself a favor. While most top Barolo sells well north of $100 (with certain single-vineyard bottlings cracking $200) you can still find great Barbaresco for $40 to $80. Even top crus in Barbaresco can still be found below $100.

Obviously, Barbaresco is not a secret. Collectors have long embraced the likes of Angelo Gaja and Bruno Giacosa. Recent price jumps for Roagna suggest that collectors are zeroing in on that producer now, too. But as I wrote previously for NWR, the roster of excellent Barbaresco producers is much longer, including Sottimano, Cascina delle Rose, Adriano Marco e Vittorio, Lodali, Bruno Rocca, Ca’ del Baio, Orlando Abrigo, and others. And many top producers known for Barolo, such Oddero or Massolino, also make excellent Barbaresco.

In Barbaresco, the villages and top crus are less familiar than in Barolo. Neive, Treiso, and Barbaresco are the main villages of the region. Meanwhile, Barbaresco’s crus (the so-called Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive or MGA) were only officially recognized in 2007. As in Barolo, the cru system is somewhat overwhelming: more than 60 vineyard sites can appear on a label. Still, certain prestige crus in Barbaresco are worth looking out for, such as Currà, Basarin, Rio Sordo, Rabajà, Gallina, Pajoré, Pajè (which Roagna owns), and Secondine (the last made famous by Gaja).

As far as vintages, there was a fine string of harvests from 2019 to 2021, with 2021 widely considered one of the best vintages in recent years. “If I can sign up now to have every year like 2021, I will do it right now,” says Riccardo Sobrino of Cascina della Rose.

While we’re beginning to see 2021 Barbaresco trickle into the U.S., consider this tasting report, an appetizer (based on current availability) while we wait for more of the 2021 vintage to find its way to retailers.

A Baker’s Dozen From Barbaresco

2020 Cascina delle Rose Tre Stelle ($80)

Single-vineyard bottling from this 5.5 hectare organic estate. Delicate, floral nose of violet, rose, and fresh cherries, and a palate of juicy red berry balanced by herbal, savory notes and subtle tannins. If you want to get ahead of the game, pre-order the 2021.

2020 Cascina delle Rose Rio Sordo ($85)

The wine from this top cru is complex, rich, and velvety. Svelte, and a little rounder than Tre Stelle, with deeper, darker fruit, asphalt, and an undercurrent of dried Mediterranean herbs. Taste this head to head with a Barolo of the same vintage at twice the price and let me know how it goes.

2020 Sottimano Basarin ($80)

Sottimano has been organic since 2004 and this—from Basarin, a top vineyard site—is elegant and expansive with a core of crushed flowers and herbs, with deep cherry and truffle notes, and a long, serious dark mineral finish. I tasted both 2020 and 2021, and my notes here are for 2020 simply since that’s what’s available in the U.S. But let me say: Be ready for the 2021; it’s outstanding.

2021 Sottimano Pajoré ($85)

From 50- to 70-year-old vines and aged 24 months in large French oak barrels. More intense and full-bodied than Basarin, with aromas of violet, baking spice, and forest floor and flavors of raspberry, cherry, mint with an undercurrent of tobacco and salt. Barolo bros, don’t worry, this is macho enough for you. I’ve even found it at a retailer for around $75, which is an absolute steal.

2020 Lodali Lorens ($70)

Walter Lodali is a name to know, and his wines are beginning to make some noise. This big-boy bruiser is aged for 24 months in large Austrian oak and another year in bottle. Deep fruit, dark minerality, and serious tannins, but still lithe and full of vibrant energy. 

2020 Lodali Rocche dei 7 Fratelli ($45)

Complex, elegant, approachable, and super drinkable, I would put Lodali’s entry-level Barbaresco up against many classic Barolos at double the price. Amazing value.

2021 Bruno Rocca Barbaresco ($55)

Bruno Rocca’s prices are creeping up over $150 for its top crus, such as Currà and Rabajà. But this entry-level Barbaresco is a great way to experience the excellent 2021 vintage at a third of that price. A bit more oaky in style, with soft tannins, bright red fruit, and a long dry finish.

2019 Orlando Abrigo Meruzzano ($40)

Bright, charming, and opulent with classic aromas of rose, cherry, and tar, along with notes of blood orange and crushed stone on the palate. 

2018 Adriano Marco e Vittorio Basarin ($36)

I’m very excited about the wines of Adriano. I tasted a mini vertical of the estates Basarin bottlings—2017, 2018, and 2020. All three are terrific, but I found myself drawn to 2018, which was considered to be a difficult vintage in Piedmont by many. Intense and dense, with super floral aromas of rose and violet, and a burst of cherries and berries on the palate, with complex tannins and dark minerality at the core, and a long finish.

2021 Massolino Barbaresco ($60)

A fine Barbaresco from one of Barolo’s largest producers. Aged 18 months in Slavonian oak barrels. Complex and full of crushed flowers, mint, spice, and red berries. “I have no difficulties in saying there are top Barbaresco that are as good as the top Barolo,” says Franco Massolino. Believe him.

2021 Poderi Oddero Gallina ($65)

Gorgeous Barbaresco from one of Barolo’s classic producers. Aromas and flavors of violet, spice, kirsch, blood orange, and pipe smoke, with dark tannins and big acidity.

2019 Carlo Giacosa Ovello ($45)

This is another Giacosa (Carlo), not that other Giacosa (Bruno). However, this Giacosa is a third of the other’s price, and punches above its weight, with notes of violet, baking spice, wild berries, tobacco, chewy tannins, and a long finish.

2022 Rosanna Sandri "Botero" Langhe Nebbiolo ($36)

An up-and-coming Barbaresco producer whose wines are tough to find in the U.S. at the moment. But check out this Langhe Nebbiolo with only six months aging in large barrels for a pure, fresh, delicious expression of the future of Piedmont.