For hardcore sherry fans like me, last week’s Feria En Rama in New York was like paradise—more than 40 producers’ wines were poured, and many winemakers flew in from Spain to attend. I tasted dozens of finos, manzanillas, amontillados, and palo cortados, along with the new wave of unfortified—and mostly dry—Jerez wines. There was lovely, thinly carved jamón. There were sherry cocktails. There was flamenco. It was a magical day.

Yet one panel, a “Sherry Roundtable,” felt like group therapy. Especially when the roundtable turned to the biggest question, voiced by event organizer Nick Africano: How do we get more people to fall in love with sherry?

“Unfortunately, I have no answers,” said panelist Paul Grieco, who for years has handed out free pours of fino sherry to customers at his well-known wine bar, Terroir. “I have many more examples of guests being reluctant.”

Even back in the home of Jerez, Sherry is a hard sell. “If everyone who says they ‘love sherry’ actually drank sherry, we wouldn’t have a problem. But people don’t drink it,” said Rocío Benito, a Jerez-based sommelier who owns the popular wine bar Albariza En Las Venas. “But we cannot force people to drink sherry. If someone wants a white wine, and I give her a manzanilla, she’s going to hate me, my bar—and also manzanilla.”

The microphone was then passed to the audience, who one after another told doleful stories of how difficult it was to sell sherry. One wine shop manager said she faced “a challenge of how to get sherry into people’s mouths,” and didn’t know whether to shelve sherry with the Spanish wines or by itself. A beverage manager wondered whether sherry should have its own column on a wine list, or stealthily be slipped in with the white wines. Sommeliers and servers told stories of how they’d tried to diplomatically steer guests toward fino or oloroso, with mixed results. One told of how her establishment served a glass of sherry with a single Reese’s peanut butter cup, in hopes that the familiarity of the childhood candy might allay a guest’s fears. Results, again, seemed mixed.

After hearing a number of these gloomy responses, I feared the microphone would get passed to me, and I would have to give my own confessional: “Hi, my name is Jason, and I am a hopeless sherry romantic. For years I’ve written articles about sherry that have mostly fallen on deaf ears.”

But the microphone never got to me, because Benito grabbed it. She said the most important thing of the afternoon, declaring that unfortified wine in Jerez—vino de pasto—“is 100 percent the future of the region. It has to be.”

It’s a sentiment I’ve heard on several trips to Jerez over the past few years: vinos de pasto will be the answer to the current sherry crisis. These unfortified new-wave wines have already become popular among wine geeks in Spain. The term covers a wide range of winemaking techniques, some made completely by traditional biological aging under flor—and some made with a little bit of flor, produced more like a still table wine.

As of 2022, vinos de pasto were permitted by Jerez’s Consejo Regulador to be bottled within the appellation. The official status of vinos de pasto was part of a larger bucket of new regulations that happened in Jerez two years ago, including allowing six new grape varieties beyond Palomino, as well as widening the production area beyond the traditional Sherry Triangle.

These changes were in response to the sad state of the sherry market, which has been in decline since the 1980s. Vineyard land for sherry has cratered from about 70,000 acres to just 15,000. According to some reports, more than 40 percent of the fino sherry in Spain is consumed solely during various spring and summer festivals in Andalucia, mostly in rebujitos, a mixed drink made of cheap fino and lemon-lime soda. Many suggest that the main industry of Jerez now is in seasoning sherry barrels for the whiskey industry. It’s said that Macallan now controls nearly half the cooperage in the region.

So what is the way forward for Jerez? As with other legacy wine regions in crisis, many believe it’s about thinking smaller, and being more focused on terroir—something that’s rarely talked about in Jerez. For decades, the focus in Sherry has been about the barrels, the solera system, and classifications based on age. I had visited the region a half dozen times over a decade before anyone ever took me to a vineyard. That is changing.

“What does sherry mean?” asked Willy Pérez of Luis Pérez, in another panel at Feria En Rama, entitled “The Art of Viticulture in Albariza.” Pérez answered his own question: “Every generation has to define what sherry is. We are just one generation, and we have the heritage of many previous generations.”

Pérez and his fellow winemaker Ramiro Ibáñez (whose self-titled label was formerly called Cota 45), focused on Jerez’s unique, chalky albariza soil and the variations between coastal and inland terroir. By 1771, the various top vineyards in Jerez had been documented and classified, long before Bordeaux. People in Jerez already know top sites like Miraflores, Carrascal, and Macharnudo—the latter was among the most expensive vineyard land in 19th century Europe, when sherry was one of the most important wines in the world. At some point in the 20th century, according to Ibáñez, “people started saying, ‘Oh, the soil and vineyards weren’t important.’” 

Similarly, Jerez is now nearly a monoculture of the Palomino grape. But in the early 20th century, Palomino only accounted for about a third of the region’s vine plantings. Back then, more than 40 white varieties and more than 30 red varieties thrived in Jerez. Ibáñez has been instrumental in bringing back varieties such as Perruno and Uva Rey. But even Palomino—which most formal wine education terms a “neutral grape”—is very expressive of terroir if grown the right way.

“You can’t deny history,” Pérez said. “Somehow, we forgot all this and started blending everything. It all became ‘older is better.’” But a group of producers, Territorio Albariza, is committed to rediscovering that history. Perhaps the most important historical fact: before the industrialization of the mid-20th century,  wines in Jerez were not always fortified.

Like those in Territorio Albariza, many of these new-wave producers in Jerez believe unfortified wine—whether aged under flor like traditional fino or not—is the best way to express terroir. We’re also starting to see more attention paid to terroir, with place names and top vineyard sites (called pagos in Jerez) such as Macharnudo or Miraflores listed on labels.

Along with wines from Pérez and Ibáñez, I’ve been drawn to producers such as Bodega de Forlong, Muchada-Léclapart, Meridiano Perdido, Primitivo Collantes, and Agrícola Calcárea. (I’ve also written about my admiration for the still wines of Raúl Moreno.)

Yet while vinos de pasto may be the future, there are still plenty of exciting traditional sherries to be found. I was very happy to revisit favorites like El Maestro Sierra, Barbadillo, Bodegas Tradición, and Lustau—as well as newer labels such as Bodegas del Río and Diatomists. One of my recent favorites is the exciting collaboration between Equipo Navazos and PM Spirits, barrel selections that feel both modern and traditional at the same time.

Even though there’s still a sherry crisis, it’s an exciting time in Jerez. If that panel at Feria En Rama felt a bit like group therapy, I would say that most sherry fans left feeling extremely positive—perhaps even feeling like sherry is in the midst of a great breakthrough. The future in Jerez looks very bright indeed.

New-Wave Jerez

2021 Luis Pérez "La Escribana" Macharnudo ($39)

Vino de pasto from one of Jerez’s top vineyards, Macharnudo. Unfortified, but this spent several months aging under flor. An intense experience of texture and minerality, with swirling layers of chalk and salt, balanced by fresh citrus. This is an excellent introduction to new-wave Jerez.

2023 Ramiro Ibáñez "Ube" Miraflores ($36)

From 80-plus-year-old vines in Sanlúcar’s top pago, Miraflores, this vino de pasto has three months of biological aging and five months of oxidative aging. Super bright and juicy, with aromas of citrus and brioche, zesty and salty on the palate with a long finish. Note: Ramiro Ibáñez recently changed his label name from Cota 45, which you can still find.

Bodegas del Río "Solera Playa" Manzanilla ($26)

For years, the del Río family worked as an almacenista—a bodega that supplies wine to the larger sherry houses—until 2022, when they decided to bottle under their own label. This new-to-me manzanilla blew me away. It’s the essence of coastal Sanlúcar. Fresh and pure, with aromas of bright citrus, sea spray, and seaweed, and a precise, linear palate that’s a balance of orchard fruit and brine. 

Diatomists Single Pago Miraflores Manzanilla ($23, 375 ml)

Great example of new-wave manzanilla, from Sanlúcar’s top vineyard, aged five years. There’s serious tension here; it’s a manzanilla that drinks like a white wine, with yeasty, saline notes alongside fruitier aromas and flavors, great texture, and a nice finish. 

2022 Meridiano Perdido "Viña La Mendoza - Pago Cerro Pelado" ($28)

From organic 60-year-old vines, fermented in French oak and aged under flor for one year in old fino barrels, this vino de pasto mixes tastes of new and old style. Subtle aromas of dried fruits and flowers, and a nuttiness that carries onto the palate. Structured and elegant with a long finish.

2022 Muchada-Léclapart Lumière ($65)

A partnership between Alejandro Muchada and David Léclapart, the famed Champagne producer, which focuses on biodynamic still wines. This bottling, from 80-year-old Palomino vines in Miraflores pago, is the first Demeter-certified wine in Jerez, which is then aged 11 months in French oak. Exquisite, dense, and luxurious, this is Jerez by way of Burgundy, showcasing the potential of Palomino in still wines.

2023 Bodega de Forlong 80/20 ($27)

Welcome to natty Jerez! With its whimsical labels and natural-leaning winemaking, Bodega de Forlong is pushing the boundaries of the region. Forlong makes wines under flor (playfully named La Fleur) but this one is bottled outside the appellation, as Tierra de Cádiz. 100 percent Palomino, aged on Pedro Ximénez skins in amphora, and rested on the lees. Expressive and structured with notes of white flowers, honey, melon, and orchard fruit, and a tannic finish. Perfect for orange wine lovers. 

2022 Raúl Moreno La Femme d’Argent ($41)

I just wrote about pioneering winemaker Raúl Moreno. His clarete—Spain’s classic, skin-contact blend of red and white wines—is a great example of the sort of innovative wines happening in Jerez right now. This unfortified vino de pasto is a curveball blend of Palomino and whole-cluster Syrah aged under flor. It has the nuttiness of sherry (cashews? pistachio?) along with the herbal and spice character of Syrah. Balances bright red fruit and black olive, with an underlying saline note and a crisp finish.

2022 Agrícola Calcárea Porfía Blanco (N/A)

A fascinating wine from an exciting new producer in Sanlúcar, which has just begun being imported into the U.S. This white is a blend of several very obscure grapes: Cañocazo, Mantúo de Pilas, Mantúo Castellano, Beba, Indiana, Listán del Condado, Jaen Blanca, and Vijiriega (a show of hands for anyone who knows even one of these varieties). Bright, floral, and zesty, full of stone fruit, citrus, saline, and a serious mineral finish. Contact the importer for availability.

2016 Cota 45 "Agostado Cortado" ($75)

This is the first new-wave Jerez wine I tasted, several years ago at Asador Etxebarri (yes, that is called a flex), and I was immediately in love. This is made by Ramiro Ibáñez, who bottled his wines as Bodegas Cota 45 until very recently—you should look for older vintages of Cota 45 in the market. It showcases not Palomino, but two of the region’s lesser known grape varieties, Perruno and Uva Rey. It’s simply a gorgeous oxidative wine—if you a love Jura wines, you will love this.

Traditional Jerez

Barbadillo Solear Manzanilla ($19)

Super classic, benchmark manzanilla. Pale in color. Bright lemon, chamomile, and seaspray on the nose, and dry, nutty, and briny on the palate, with a long salty finish. Aged six years under a veil of flor. Great value, and a great introduction to dry sherry.

Valdespino Inocente Fino ($16, 375 mL)

Another classic, a benchmark fino from Jerez’s top vineyard Macharnudo. Aromas of salted nuts, buttered toast, and hay, and a palate that’s by turns fruity, herbal, and briny. This has been one of my go-to, everyday finos for a long time.

Bodegas Tradición Fino ($39)

One of my favorite traditional finos from Jerez, and one of the oldest, given its 10 years of age under flor. Golden in color, with aromas of almond, brioche, dried herb, and on the palate layers of herb, salt, and a hint of dried fruit. Seamless, and pushing the envelope of what a fino can be.

Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla ($18, 500 mL)

Another classic manzanilla, and another good value. Intense saltiness—it feels at first like a fresh sip of the ocean. Dry, tangy, and rich texture. Makes you want to grab plates of olives, almonds, jamón.

2023 Lustau Fino de El Puerto 3 En Rama ($26, 500 mL)

Aged five years under flor. Earthy, and tangy, with aromas of sea spray, melon, and wet stone. In the mouth, it’s intense and nervy, with an attractive rainwater texture, and notes of citrus and brine, leading to a long finish.

Lustau Almacenista González Obregón Amontillado del Puerto ($32, 500 mL)

Lustau has always featured the almacenistas it works with, including this amontillado from casks aged at José Luis González Obregón’s bodegas in El Puerto de Santa María. Nut brown in color and nutty on the nose, with complex flavors of tangerine, soy sauce, brine, great acidity, and a long finish. One of my favorite traditional amontillados.

El Maestro Sierra Amontillado 12 Year ($36, 375 mL)

El Maestro Sierra has some of the oldest barrel stocks in Jerez. This 12-year-old is the platonic ideal of an amontillado from Jerez. Big, expressive notes of hazelnut, macadamia, honey, sea salt, that’s breezy, fresh, and long.

PM Spirits Project Amontillado ($85)

On the lighter side of amontillado, and likely more for a true sherry fan than a newbie. Super nutty, with lots of almond, marzipan, and macadamia notes, balanced by great acidity and freshness. A blend of casks, selected by Nicolas Palazzi of PM Spirits and Eduardo Ojeda of Equipos Navazos. Fortified and aged under flor for 8 to 10 years.

PM Spirits Project Palo Cortado ($99)

Very subtle and complex, with aromas of spiced pear and candied orange, surprisingly fresh on the palate, citrusy and spicy, with a long dark and peppery finish. A blend of casks, with an average of 15 years aging. Fortified under flor for several years, then a decade or more longer after the flor dissipated.