No place exemplifies wine country, in the American popular imagination, more than Napa. The verdant vines; the bluebird skies; the jet-black Sprinter vans hurtling bachelors, bachelorettes, and celebrants of all stripes through the valley; the passengers testing their limits, the drivers testing their endurance. Napa welcomes everyone—those at the beginning of their wine journey, those immersed in the thick of it, those who just come for the views. 

Charles Krug established Napa Valley's first commercial winery in 1861. By the turn of the 20th century, there were more than 140 wineries. The region might’ve gone gangbusters from there had the arrival of phylloxera not brought wine production to a screeching halt. And, of course, Prohibition didn’t help, either. When it was repealed in 1933, Napa began growing into the touristic behemoth we know today, with more than 400 wineries and 90 tasting rooms in the valley’s 30-mile span. 

One can only drink so much wine (or so we’ve heard). Hundreds of restaurants and hotels have risen up to serve the hordes of tourists—more than 3.7 million in 2023—who descend on this region every year. While summer is a perennial favorite, late fall, winter, and early spring are sleeper hits—prime times to visit if you hope to wine, dine, and explore with a minimum of crowds and traffic. “In the late fall and winter, winemakers have more time for you,” says Annie Favia of Favia Wines and Erda Tea. “People are generally less busy. It’s a very reflective time in the valley, when we’re pruning and making choices about how we’re going to move forward for the next season. It’s a great time to be here.”

Napa Valley Guide (Beyond Wine)

Lodging

Napa offers no shortage of luxury lodging options, but there’s one that locals bring up time and time again: the Solage Resort and Spa in Calistoga, which is managed by Auberge. “It’s A+ but it doesn’t feel stuffy,” says Eden Foley, the estate director of Realm Cellars. “They have all these details that make you feel like you’re at home, but better—they have cut-fresh flowers in the lobby and when you arrive, you can put together a bouquet for your room.” There’s also a house car available for guests to use gratis, which sometimes is a Mercedes G-Wagon. The spa underwent a recent renovation that makes it all the more appealing after a few days of of wine tasting and indulgent dining.

The Four Seasons planted its flag in Calistoga in 2021; Stanly Ranch, another Auberge property, is a sprawling resort with wellness offerings to rival Equinox. Want a five-star experience that’s not part of the portfolio of a major hotel chain? Check into Meadowood. Renovated and recently reopened following the 2020 Glass Fire, it’s one of the few properties that boasts all the amenities of a multinational luxury conglomerate but remains rooted in Napa. (It’s owned by Bill Harlan.) Meadowood’s suites and cottages are equal parts cozy and modern, with roaring fireplaces and vaulted ceilings that offer sweeping views of the compound’s forested acres and the valley beyond.  

But Napa’s not all resorts. “Francis House is the most darling bed and breakfast,” says Kim Elwell, a co-founder of Halcyon Wines. A stone mansion that dates back to 1886, Calistoga was built around it, and it puts forth the sort of old-world charm that you can’t get at mainstream hotels. “The owners still live there, and they make breakfast for everyone in the morning,” says Elwell. “They’ll ask you how it’s going, they’ll offer tips—that sort of experience.”

Downtown Napa is its own animal, one worth getting to know if you’re keen on walking to bars, restaurants, shops, and tasting rooms. While the Andaz Napa is perfectly acceptable (especially if you’re a Hyatt loyalist), the Archer offers similar accommodations with a more bustling bar scene; it’s also home to a Charlie Palmer steakhouse. The Carneros Resort and Spa offers the resort experience a 10-minute drive from downtown Napa, with a spa, a “wellness barn,” and two swimming pools—one with vineyard views, a bar, and an adults-only policy. While the cottages at Carneros may not be as sumptuous as those at Meadowood, the property offers a complimentary shuttle to and from downtown Napa, so you can soak in peace—literally, some of the cottages have outdoor clawfoot bathtubs—while still being a stone’s throw from the action.

Restaurants

Thomas Keller looms large over this valley, what with his three-Michelin-starred French Laundry and Bouchon Bistro. But with a wine list that's 2,700 bottles deep, most of which hail from the region, it’s hard to think of a restaurant more quintessentially Napa than Press. Founded in 2005 by Leslie Rudd, a former Dean & DeLuca executive turned vintner, the St. Helena stalwart makes edible art out of Napa’s bounty. While the menu changes seasonally, some dishes are local legends, like the carrot "hot dog"—as its name suggests, it’s an entire carrot in a hot dog bun—and the bacon sampler.

Odes to Italy abound, borne out of a robust Italian-American community that dates back to the 1870s. Ciccio occupies a century-old Yountville grocery store. Under the guise of its new owner, Christopher Kostow, chef of the (currently closed) three-Michelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood, it turns out expertly fired pizzas and pastas. “The dining room is cozy, just 12 to 15 tables,” says Elwell. “It’s simple and perfect—exactly what you want after a long day of tasting.” 

A half-mile south is Bottega, a modern Italian restaurant that doles out contemporary riffs on reliable classics, like pasta carbonara with charcoal-activated fettuccine. They have their own version of In-N-Out’s Animal Style: an unadvertised, word-of-mouth Realm menu, which is what Foley and her cohorts would eat and drink if they were there. Food and beverage pairings change seasonally based on conversations between Realm and the restaurant; the current iteration includes Dom Pérignon P2 and cacio e pepe with white truffles from Alba, Italy.

Some occasions call for white tablecloths and tasting menus; others, comfort food. At the Charter Oak in St. Helena, Kostow (of the Restaurant at Meadowood and Ciccio) turns out no-nonsense gustatory pleasures to please every palate—wings, fries, and cheeseburgers, yes, but also gorgeous salads and crudités that could qualify as a work of art. Downtown Napa’s Torc serves a truffled grilled cheese that pairs perfectly with a chalky Cab, and as far as fast food goes, you can’t beat Gott’s Roadside, in Oxbow Public Market.

Speaking of Oxbow Public Market, a cornerstone of downtown Napa: it’s an attraction in and of itself, the ideal place to go when no one can decide what they want to eat (or everyone wants something different), given the 22 vendors under its roof. Kostow has planted his flag here, too—his Loveski deli doles out what is likely the valley’s best matzo ball soup as well as bagels that will satisfy even the most ardent purist. Other Oxbow favorites: the clams at Hog Island Oyster and the English muffins at Model Bakery.

Bars

From pretty much the moment it opened in 2014, Cadet became a favorite hangout for wine industry insiders, drawing winemakers, line cooks, and servers to a charming alleyway of downtown Napa that, if you squint, looks a little like Paris. Ten years on, it remains a hive of activity, with tourists and locals coming together over an eclectic menu of beer and wine (the list goes well beyond Napa). In 2023, the women behind Cadet, Aubrey Bailey and Taylor Domin, opened Chispa, a 1st Street bar that puts agave spirits front and center and muddles them into fantastical cocktails with names like Side Eye and the Cha Cha. If you prefer your margarita with a side of Americana, head down the street to Bounty Hunter, which feels like it was airdropped in from the set of Yellowstone, even though it’s been here since 1994.

Beyond downtown, Goose & Gander lights up St. Helena’s nighttime scene. “They have the best cocktails,” says Favia—like the O.G., an amalgamation of mezcal and sumac, that might pave the way for the zhuzhed up pub food on offer beyond the bar. “It’s decadent,” says Favia, “but there are also healthy options.” 

Other Pursuits

All the consumption might compel you to move, and one of the best places to do so is the Napa Valley Vine Trail, a 47-mile trail that stretches from Vallejo to Calistoga, absent of cars, ideal for walking, running, and biking. (The recently opened eight-mile portion from St. Helena to Calistoga is among the trail’s most scenic stretches.) 

If you’re looking for a good read, head to Napa Bookmine, an independent book store and coffee shop in downtown Napa that frequently hosts author events, or the newly opened (and utterly atmospheric) Wild Plum Books in St. Helena. Other shops worth a stop: Carter and Co and Noma House, both in St. Helena, both specializing in handmade ceramics and home goods. 

My favorite thing to take home (besides wine)? Produce. Specifically, anything plucked from the garden of a local friend (like Favia) or on offer at the downtown Napa farmer’s market on Tuesdays and Saturdays. If you’re unwilling to take a chance on tomatoes (or anything thin-skinned and prone to being crushed) consider the walnuts. Napa walnuts might ruin you for all future walnuts, but that’s all right. You’ll always have a reason to come back.