Ever found yourself always going somewhere, or doing something, you didn’t want to as a child because your brother or sister did? If so, you might have something in common with Cabernet Franc. Thanks to a shared family tree and blending “partnership” with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc often finds itself planted out of its comfort zone and grudgingly relegated to a supporting role. But, like the quiet kid at the noisy party, this is not where Cab Franc is likely to shine brightest.

Cabernet Franc likes cool climates. The power and heat of the sun does nothing to bring out its subtle beauty. In North America, the Finger Lakes and the Niagara Peninsula look across the border from each other, and share a deep passion for the grape. Venture to the cooler heights of the Uco Valley in Argentina and you’ll find winemakers such as Alejandro Virgil working his magic at more than 3,500 feet above sea level. And the cooler reaches of California, Oregon, and Chile are proving to be fine terroir for its chiseled, fine-boned nature 

But the spiritual home of Cabernet Franc remains the Loire Valley. The continental climate of northern France is its ideal stomping ground: the grape’s early ripening helps combat the sharp drop offs in temperature as the autumnal weather patterns set in, whilst the bright, refreshing acidity and delicate flavors are never in danger of being ripened away. It’s long been stipulated that grapes are at their very best when grown at the limits of their requirements, and this is a knife-edge that the vignerons of Chinon, Saumur, and Bourgueil have trodden all too many times over the last 30 years. Get it wrong, and you’re faced with the lean, mean, and overtly green character of under-ripe Cabernet Franc. Get it right, however, and you create the most nuanced, delicately chiseled, floral and moreish wines you could possibly want. 

I’m always hesitant to proclaim positive impacts from global warming, but it’s fair to say that certain regions, grapes, and styles have benefited more than others. Since 2015, the spate of successive warm vintages have broadened this knife’s edge—it now resembles, perhaps, a far less perilous garden path, with late spring frosts a far greater concern now than rain and cold temperatures at harvest time. This has coincided with decades of continuous progression in the vineyards, with a particular focus on organic and biodynamic viticulture, and the wineries of the Loire Valley, and the result has been a breeding ground for some of the worlds greatest Cabernet Franc. Like so many regional  success stories, there was a quiet driving force behind this change. In the case of Cabernet Franc, this was the Foucault brothers at Clos Rougeard. 

Back in the Eighties, when Kermit Lynch was raging in his Adventures on the Wine Route of various changes in the French wine scene, including an entire chapter on one unfortunate producer in Sancerre, the vignerons of the Loire were adapting their style to produce a light, bistro-friendly style of Cabernet Franc for their largest local market—Paris. It became common for vignerons in the region to rely on chemical treatments for their vineyards— especially after the destruction of World War II, as a way to get back up to speed. Clos Rougeard carried on regardless with their more traditional style: spending more time in the vineyards and using less destructive methods to manage mildew, rot and other ailments of the vine. Like the Gang of Four masters of Beaujolais, they were generous with their time and philosophy, and many young vignerons, such as Antoine Sanzay, learned their trade in and around their table. This slow, steady and confident approach to quality winemaking eventually paid off and today, the wines are practically unobtainable, and quite expensive for those who find them. 

Today, though, they have real competition for their crown. An entire generation of top wineries appear to have crept up, largely under the radar, and are now popping up in dinners, events, and wine bars across the world—though, of course, many of these producers have, like Clos Rougeard, have simply carried on making wine in the same way they always have. 

Cabernet Franc is grown throughout the Loire Valley but the majority of the most acclaimed wines hail from from three distinct sub-regions: Chinon, Saumur-Champigny, and Bourgueil. Chinon is perhaps the most historically famous of these regions, and certainly the most “classic” in style. Lying just south of the river Loire, in the Touraine district of the valley, Chinon is roughly divided into two; the sandier area near the river, which produces lighter and  fruitier wines, and the limestone and clay soils of the slopes, which are responsible for the more structured wines. Indeed, the most structured Chinon can be positively like a good St. Emilion at times—which is perhaps a tacit admission that Cabernet Franc has a stronger role to play in Bordeaux than might have been let on. Chinon producers Philippe Alliet, Bernard Baudry, Domaine Pallus, and Charles Joguet are all well worth seeking out. (Indeed, Charles Joguet was something of a lightning bolt for Kermit Lynch in the late 1980s; the domaine continues to produce delicious, graphite-tinged Cabernet Francs to this day. 

Bourgueil sits on the north bank of the Loire,  and produces the ripest, most structured Cabernet Franc of the three regions. A good example of this bolder style is Mi-Pente, created by the late, great Jacky Blot; sourced from vineyards at the very centre of the slope—the Loire equivalent, perhaps, of the selection of land for Grand Cru Burgundy. Black cherry, wild herbs, and no shortage of power, albeit in a deliciously packaged 13.5% ABV. Saumur-Champigny is produces lightest and the freshest wines of the three villages, generally speaking, with vineyards planted on an outcrop of limestone south of the river Loire. Naturally this varies with producers, but a quick check of the elegance and natural verve of wines from the likes of Antoine Sanzay, Thierry Germain or Roches Neuves, and Domaine Guiberteau confirm that some generalizations really are built on the truth.

Defining a hierarchy for these wines is harder than ever, though the market has attempted to do just that by driving up the prices of the less available cuvées from Guiberteau, Roches Neuves, and Antoine Sanzay in particular. Some have even reached the quality level of the famed Clos Rougeard—though with any luck, they’ ll never rise to the same price.

This is an excellent time to delve into Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley, as multiple recent high-quality vintages are still readily available. Some people wish they have been to famous sports matches in the past, or that they’d attended historical events. I dearly wish I’d been in that first group who first discovered Clos Rougeard amongst the dreary examples of a much earlier time in the Loire—though I’m also happy to live in 2025, and a time where they have company at the top.

CLASSIC LOIRE CABERNET FRANC

2019 Domaine Pallus Les Pensees de Pallus  ($25)

A young, accessible Chinon produced from a number of older vineyards around the region. Classic and delicious. Bright brambly fruits, wild herbs, pencil lead and a touch of violets. Firm, engaging stuff and a wonderful introduction to Chinon.

2018 Antoine Sanzay La Haye Dampierre ($44)

A savory, intense expression of Saumur-Champigny from one of its most recent superstars in the village of Varrains. Fresh blackberry and raspberry fruits mingle, over the classic leafy character of Cabernet Franc, complemented by hints of toast and a meaty, barnyard aroma. Fresh and firm, with wonderful natural acidity highlighting the fruit and herb flavors on the palate. 

2018 Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-pente  ($45)

From the center slopes of Jacky Blot’s holdings that face the Loire River. Ripe, juicy red fruits; strawberry and cherry, creeping towards a touch of damson, given the heat of this vintage. Slightly cedar-y and spicy, with sticky tannins to remind you this is still a young wine, but the sheer energy and flow of the wine is enough to make you want to finish another bottle on the spot. A superlative wine from one of the region’s greats, and one likely to keep improving for another decade in the bottle. 

2018 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée ($49)

Juicy, ripe, and already drinking so well. Ripe black cherries, sweet tobacco, green pepper and some fairly prominent toasty, woody notes at this age, though they are already merging together nicely with the fruit. Soft, gentle power on the palate, with a tug of chalky tannin to remind you that this wine will be best as 2030 comes into sight. 

2019 Domaine des Roches Neuves Franc de Pied ($55)

Bright red strawberry and raspberry fruit, graphite, pine needles, and violets on the nose; classic and so well defined. Fine, powdery tannins dissipate on the palate, leaving the flavors to be animated by the refreshing acidity. A superb bottling from this top producer in Saumur, from a vineyard mostly composed of younger vines. 

2018 Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie ($75)

One of the largest Cabernet Francs I’ve tasted from the Loire, this hails from a Chinon vineyard first planted in the 1930s. Layers of fresh black fruits; blackberry, damson, and bramble fruits, complemented by the classic notes of green bell pepper, graphite, and black pepper. Remarkably fresh for all its power, this has the making of a wine built for the long haul. 

2018 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Les Arboises  ($79)

Fragrant and inviting; fresh red and dark cherries, bay leaf, cedar, tilled soil and a touch of graphite. That classic, Saumur Champigny crunchiness and bright acidity illuminates the fruit and leafy freshness, lending a savory twist to the finish.

2020 Domaine Bel Air Clos Noveau ($79)

A bit of a special wine from winemaker Pierre Gauthier, created from a walled, one hectare vineyard that he restored over several years. If there was a Bourgeuil to be confused with a top-tier right bank Bordeaux, this would be it. Black cherry and bramble fruits, graphite, dark chocolate and smoke. Masses of powdery tannin on the palate, matched by the flavor profile, which almost feels held back at present. It’s often remarked that this is a twenty-year wine; while I’ve never had that pleasure, it certainly feels like it could age that long quite happily.

2018 Philippe Alliet Chinon Coteau de Noiré ($NA)

A brooding, serious Chinon from a self-styled “grand cru” in the region, and very  different from the lighter, brighter side of Cabernet Franc. Almost tastes as though Cabernet Franc was filtered through graphite and schist, given its earthy, dark fruits, compact tannins and dry finish. Savory, structured and absolutely delicious, this feels immortal but it’s a lot of fun to drink right now. 

2018 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux  ($240)

Sometimes the greats really live up to their reputation. This is the case for this Les Poyeux. While clearly still a very young wine, this is unfolding in the glass: bright cherries, tobacco, wild herbs, violets, and warm earth. Spectacular nose, and on the palate there’s a depth that’ s simply impossible to fake. A true great of the wine world, and, despite the elevated prices, a wine that simply should be tried at least once by any lover of Cabernet Franc.