It’s June. It’s late afternoon, maybe early evening, and it is quite warm. You’re outside, or maybe inside with open windows, hoping for a breeze. A meal is on the way, but only vaguely. You are not weary of this heat, of this place, of this day, not exactly — but it is time for a drink. 

The correct beverage here is a very light beer. It’s too warm for anything heavier or hoppier. But also: you don’t want a very light beer. Maybe you don’t like very light beer. Maybe, even at this early summer moment, you’ve already found yourself in too many situations where very light beer was the only option. Who knows? 

What you do know is that you want wine. But a room temperature red runs the opposite direction of where you’re heading, and all that Sancerre and even (gasp!) Riesling tastes a bit like acid water in the heat. Champagne? Yes, always Champagne. But really honestly, Champagne feels like a lot right now. 

Crisis seems near, hovering just out of view. Until: 

Lambrusco. 

Yes. Lambrusco. Lambrusco is the answer. Lambrusco is the way. 

Lambrusco is delicious. It does not ask you to think. It’s just good. It’s also ice cold. It need not be served, Montrachet-like, at precisely 49° lest you crush the crystalline bouquet like a clumsy fool. No. Ice down that damn Lambrusco as far as it will go.

Lambrusco has character. It’s an odd bird that tastes like the field and the dirt and even maybe the hands from which it came. It bubbles. It’s Italian, which is good. Italians handle such situations with verve and aplomb. It’s also cheap. Even the really good Lambrusco won’t set you back far. But $25 should do just fine. Order the whole bottle. Order three. And again, make sure whatever quantity of Lambrusco you’re in for is iced way, way down.

Lambrusco is layered. It has tannins and fruit and a spine. It has a little funk. Does it reveal itself as a coy companion through its long, delicate finish? It does not. Which means you can take that next sip as quickly as you like without ruining the Lambrusco experience. You can’t ruin the Lambrusco experience. It’s too congenial. It’s too happy to be here. It’s friends with everyone — the grill, the meats, the cheeses, the olives. Lambrusco and burgers sounds fantastic. You can drink Lambrusco with chicken. You can drink it with lamb. Lambrusco, you might well notice, even hangs out rather agreeably with artichokes, asparagus, peppers and kale, those unpairable green heroes of summer. 

Another delight: Lambrusco is not obvious or familiar to all. Someone near you is about to meet Lambrusco for the very first time. You will be there for the epiphany. You will bring about the epiphany. Horizons will be joyfully expanded. And those who know Lambrusco will greet it again warmly, like the old friend it is. 

But which Lambrusco?

In fact, it matters not. Should you avoid the disgusting, candy-sweet Lambrusco found at the grocery store? Of course. As you should for all wines fitting such a description. But beyond that, if you’ve chosen Lambrusco at all, your path is true. Beneath are several bottles you’d be glad to meet on that path, should you find them. But don’t look too hard. Lambrusco wants to be easily found.

So Lambrusco then! We have an answer. It is affirming and bold. The Lambrusco appears, hauled from its icy chamber. It is poured with a thoughtful and loose hand into the glasses, be they stocky or stemmed, and behold: the inky, ruby-tinged violet of the Lambrusco glints at you for a moment before you take your drink. And then you do. It is cold and wet and filled with berries, with earth, with life. The Lambrusco is good. Welcome in. 

Drink these

Terrevive Lambrusco dell'Emilia Rosso Bergianti “No Autoclave” 2022 ($24)

Exuberantly aromatic stuff made in small batches. Lighter and more refined than the average Lambrusco, but still delivers the bracing acid/tannin combination all good Lambrusco hangs its hat on.

Fattoria Moretto Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 2023 ($25)

Old vines just outside of Modena are to thank for this lovely, well-balanced wine that needs just a touch of olive oil, hard cheese or prosciutto to bring out its clean, lovely black and red fruit notes.

Vigneto Saetti Lambrusco Salamino Rosso Viola 2023 ($22)

What a satisfying wine! Deep garnet with cherries and crushed flowers on both the nose and palate. Drink by itself or meet this burst of flavor head-on with anything that’s not too light or delicate.

(Need more Lambrusco ideas? See our recommendations here and here.)