Rome’s food and wine traditions date back to ancient times, when Roman citizens flocked to thermopolia— "hot shops" or "hot things"—for salty fish, baked cheese, lentils, and wine spiced with saffron, pepper, cinnamon, and coriander. Today, its food and wine scene reflects not only its rich history, but also the traditions and tastes of its residents, who value simplicity, quality, and seasonality.

While even Rome’s tiniest, humblest trattorias offer sublime dining experiences, studded throughout the city are hidden gems beloved by in-the-know food and wine insiders. For this guide, we spoke to Luca Costanzi, food and wine manager of Mirabelle; Andrea Vecchia, food and wine manager at the NH Collection Roma Fori Imperiali; Molly Matelski, co-founder and president of Mmmm...Enjoy, a line of premium, women-owned Italian wines, and the director of buyer relations, programming and communications for Italian Expo's International Wine Expo, in collaboration with Vinitaly; and culinary expert and tour guide Katie Parla, author of Tasting Rome.

Morning

Costanzi: "My day typically begins with an espresso and artisanal cornetti (Italian-style croissants) at sustainably-minded Faro. The menu changes monthly, so you can always count on exceptional, seasonal pastries."

Matelski: "Take a table in the back at Gran Caffè La Caffettiera, where it feels more intimate. Red velvet chairs, wallpapered walls, and wood accents give it a warm and charming feel. While many traditional espresso drinks are on the menu, you can't miss a taste of Napoli: espresso made with their traditional, copper Neapolitan coffee machine. The result is a bit of a mix between a moka and a pour-over espresso."

Parla: "Barnum on Via del Pellegrino typically has a kilometer-long queue for their seated breakfast. Still, anyone can walk right in for their exceptional specialty coffee, espresso, and buttery pastries."

Lunch & Afternoon

Vecchia: "For lunch, I recommend Taverna Trilussa in the heart of Trastevere. This restaurant is one of the most historic in the charming Trastevere neighborhood, serving traditional Roman pasta dishes, including spaghetti all'amatriciana and cacio e pepe." 

Matelski: "For lunch, dining in the historic Jewish Quarter is quite special. Carciofi alla giudìa, Jewish-style artichokes, are the specialty here, and you'll typically find a restaurant worker outside cutting and peeling artichokes all day long."

Parla: "Cesare al Casaletto is my platonic ideal of a trattoria, and I love it the most for lunch, which is served under a grape pergola on an outdoor patio. Afternoon dining gives me plenty of time to walk off their fried gnocchi with cacio e pepe sauce and a plate of rigatoni with oxtail ragù, ideally through the nearby sprawling park, Villa Pamphili."

Costanzi: "The terrace at the Michelin-starred Aroma restaurant, situated on the top floor of Palazzo Manfredi, overlooks the magnificent Colosseum. Exceptional, traditional Roman cuisine, paired with cellar selections by top sommelier Alessandro Crognale."

Dinner & Evening

Matelski: "For a lively evening with friends featuring traditional Roman dishes and live music on weekends: Checco Er Carettiere in the Trastevere neighborhood. The place is packed on weekends, so make a reservation for spaghetti cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, and alla gricia, and also supplì, deep-fried risotto balls, a classic Roman street food favorite. This is the perfect place to start your night out in Rome—Trastevere parties all night long."

Costanzi: "Orma. Chef Roy Caceres melds the flavors and traditions of his native Colombia, his adopted home country, Italy, and Syria, where his grandfather was born."

Parla: “Roman food can be intense, especially if you plan multiple restaurant meals back-to-back. Piatto Romano in Testaccio has the most spectacular array of vegetable dishes, including a salad of wild greens with anchovy sauce that will have you asking: carbonara who?”

Late Night

Costanzi: “For after-dinner cocktails under the Roman stars, I love the open-air, rooftop Adèle Mixology Lounge.”

Parla: "Latteria in Trastevere does it all, and well, from affordable-priced natural wines to craft beer, cocktails, light snacks, and one of the best lasagnas in town. It's my go-to with local or visiting friends when we want to hit Rome's chaotic nightlife neighborhood but actually drink well while we're at it." 

Matelski: "For an after-dinner espresso, Sant’Eustachio il Caffè delivers. It's open until midnight. Enjoying a late-night coffee here is one of the most romantic things you can do when in Rome, even—and especially—by yourself."