Brunello is bulletproof. I remember Lettie Teague, The Wall Street Journal’s wine writer, calling it “the Sancerre of Italy.” 

Burgundy and Bordeaux are what you expect a small portion of the fine dining community to know. I'm excited when guests know the difference between Gevrey and Volnay. But no one has ever told me, in the 24 years that I've been serving Brunello, about a preference for a certain wine because it comes from a cooler side or higher elevation of Montalcino or because the soil is heavier there. There is zero awareness of that, even in fairly knowledgeable circles.

In contrast, think of what has happened in the last 10-20 years in Barolo and Barbaresco. Real wine people know that Monfortino is like a Musigny. From Verduno to Serralunga, with the MGAs [Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive, which define specific vineyard borders], Piedmont is now treated 100% like Burgundy. This hasn't happened with Montalcino because the Consorzio [del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, which oversees the marketing and promotion of the region’s wines] controls the messaging.  

With Montalcino, I don't think, honestly, that people even understand that they are ordering a fairly high tannin wine, or a modern- vs traditional-style producer. They are ordering a prestigious, expensive Tuscan wine. 

Similarly, when I tell diners the difference between 2016 and 2018, it's the age difference that sticks out to them more than the contrasts in quality and concentration. And, compared to other top regions, Brunello has the built-in advantage of being three years older than others when they are released.

Generally, Brunello is a tried-and-true category called for by novices, enthusiasts and experts alike. It consistently provides joyful moments and excellent pairings. Rosso is gaining traction as a pour by the glass in several of our restaurants. I often list some of the more ambitious ones, like Canalicchio di Sopra and Costanti. They're Brunello-adjacent experiences.

We're really ready for the 2019, 2020 and 2021 juice. It seems like a trifecta of great quality. There's been a bit of fatigue lately. But with a vintage like 2019, there is a lot of anticipation and excitement. 

Before and during the pandemic we had the 2015s and 2016s. The 2015s were a consumer-friendly vintage—accessible but also age-worthy. Everyone went bananas for them after the underwhelming 2014s. We hadn't had back-to-back greats like those since 2006 and 2007.

Then came the 2017s, and they were all over the place. But they offer accessibility. (Every vintage has its value.) Plus, the producers that are the toast of the region, they're always at their best. '17 was an example of that—some producers knocked it out of the park. 

For 2018, there was no consensus as to what the vintage really was. Some really good '18s are out there though. They may be rediscovered down the road, like the 2008s or 2011s. 

The 2015s are in a wonderful window right now. They have nice, upfront fruit and are just dipping their toes into that tertiary character. Brunello collectors should start pulling those bottles now. They will keep aging well, but not like 2016 or 2010.

Most 2013s are ready to go. They've been shedding their skins and coming out of their shells. There are so many layers of flavor.  

The 2012s are a little bit big-boned. They've got nice structure. It's a good time to pull those and let your 2016s, 2010s and 2006s rest a few more years.

As for the denominazione itself, it needs some re-imagining. It is a challenge to get the wines into the hands of younger gatekeepers in restaurants. They see Brunello as an older person's wine. For them, the spark is missing.

It's in the New York legacy restaurants—Ai Fiori, Sistina, Marea, Brunello moves, no matter the price point, no matter the vintage. But, it's different with newer wave and smaller wine lists: high price points are getting boxed out. Sometimes a Brunello that isn't a big player in Italy—you might see it at an Autogrill [the generally good restaurants located on the major highways], for instance—is on a wine list in the US because it has good margins. 

Brunello could take a page from Chianti Classico's book. They have changed the game with education. They took grandpa's appellation and made it cool with the new Masnaghetti maps [that detail specific vineyards and their owners], getting people on the ground, and just generally delivering the romance. Montalcino needs to talk about the different sections of the hill. They need in-depth investigations to turn over every stone in Montalcino's soil. 

Then, there are the Rossos. Lots of younger consumers can't buy a 2019 Montosoli [a high-end, single vineyard], but they can start with some Rossos. Plus, there are certain vintages where the Rossos are doing better—like 2017. Sometimes there are producers who only bottle Rossos in a certain year, like Val di Cava in 2011 and 2018—incredible values!

Brunello is every bit as high-end as Bordeaux. I love a Riserva because I know it is special for the winery. There is something they found in the vintage that they want to separate. But, they're expensive. You have your once-a-week and once-a-month wines, then you set aside Brunello Riservas for an even more special occasion. 

One thing about Sangiovese is that it is really different from producer to producer. You can really be surprised by the varied styles of producers—even from such a small region in that sea of red, Tuscan wine.

Vintage always plays a big part in collectors' choices. In stronger vintages, you get people coming out who may not collect in every vintage. Some collectors are more producer-driven. It could be a place they visited, or they just really love the house style. Some of our favorite producers are Il Marronetto, Le Chiuse and Uccelliera. With Val di Cava, Biondi-Santi, Stella di Campalto—all the established names, we can't get enough of those.

The 2017s definitely saw less demand than 2015s and 2016s. It's understandable. People bought producer-specific wines, especially from producers they trust. Many people bought them for earlier drinking, like the 2018s.

People who talk more openly about their love for Brunello collect to drink, not to resell. I think Brunello collectors are more sentimental than transactional. Tuscany is such a popular destination. Lots of luxury hotels and resorts—Rosewood, Belmond—are there. Besides, most visitors aren't necessarily wine collectors, but there they get exposed to Super Tuscans and Brunello. You don't see that in Beaune. Tuscany is on par with the Amalfi coast—they have the hotels and resorts that can accommodate those kinds of travelers. 

For gifting, people generally buy Brunello over Chianti Classico. Maybe Brunello's minimum aging requirements attach a sort of pedigree and higher standard or expectation to it. 

I recently commissioned a study of 40,000 on-premise accounts to learn which are the best-selling Italian wines in US restaurants. Of the top 150 wines, 18 are Brunello. That's 12%. [In contrast, Barolo & Barbaresco together have 17 entries.]

Still, Brunello could be sexier. Piedmont is sexy. Etna is sexy. The New York somms have a lot of influence in these areas. To rival the sexiness of Piedmont, Brunello needs to do some serious sub-zoning. What are they waiting for? You have to give something to the wine geeks. Another thing that Brunello needs to do—and some have already adopted this tendency—is to go toward the lighter side. Embrace the drinkability that the market wants. 

Other than the iconic wines, they need to get out the message that the wines are affordable. People think that Brunello equals expensive. Italian wines are still #1 in terms of quality-to-value, even in fine wine.

Then there is Rosso di Montalcino, the #1 undervalued wine there. Often, when Brunello isn't at the top level in a certain vintage, they declassify the wine to Rosso. Usually, entry level wines are less expensive—that's true of Rossos—and there's more volume. It is hard to promote Rosso because there isn't enough. They're busy making more expensive Brunello. But the flip side is that Rossos offer faster cash flow. And they're affordable and delicious. Not exactly "give me a straw" kind of wine, but almost. They should be making more Rosso. 

Don't be so dogmatic about vintage charts! Everyone goes crazy about the vintage charts the Consorzio puts out. They are not a blanket for every winery and every label. Sure, 2018 wasn't that sexy, but you can find good deals and good wines. Plus, there are lots of opportunities with lesser-known wineries. Just try the wines.

People are obsessed with Brunello and for good reason. The wines are delicious. They seem like they've been around forever because they are refined and beautiful and have a sense of place. There is a complex history, just within Tuscany, surrounding Sangiovese. There are producers celebrating 500-plus years of production. Brunello doesn't have that long legacy, but its modern history is incredible.

People should start to drink their Brunellos based on the style of vintage. Heat and ripeness really play into it. I think these are the first vintages to drink. Some Rosso bottlings can age, but I tend to drink those. It is brilliant to have Rosso and Brunello because prices do weigh in on whether to drink a Brunello. Even in Italy you don't drink Brunello every day. It's for select occasions only. 

Another thing that I notice sometimes is that the Riservas tend to be lighter than the traditional annata wine because of their acidity and the brightness. Riservas don't have to be bigger and more powerful to have more complexity.

Whenever I see 2010, I drink them. I love pretty, red-fruited Sangiovese and high acid. I think 2012 is a great year. 2015 was a winemakers' vintage, and 2016 was the perfect vintage. 

Generally, Rosso di Montalcino is easy by the glass. It's a great way to introduce the wines of Montalcino. Rosso by the glass is one of the fastest-selling wines we have. They tend to be versatile and go with lots of different foods. It is easier to sell by the glass than Chianti Classico! Maybe it's because there's just not that much Rosso, so it is a more coveted wine than Chianti Classico.