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It's time to stop underestimating this classic region’s restaurants and wine bars.
Sarah Parker Jang · May 06, 2024
It might sound a little silly to say that Champagne is Paris’s best-kept secret. But Reims is just 45 minutes away by high-speed rail from the city, so it’s incredibly easy for Parisians to enjoy a long, relaxing weekend in one of the world’s most famous wine regions. And while accommodation options were slim as little as a decade ago, now travelers are spoiled for choice.
Stay at the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa for the full luxury resort experience (complete with a “Champagne Please” speed-dial option on your room’s phone). Or opt for a highly personalized stay at the tiny (just five rooms) family-run Manoir Henri Giraud. There, you can book a terrace suite and drink a glass of the proprietor’s cuvée while taking in a stunning view of the vineyards of Aÿ. In the quiet of the rolling green hills of Champagne, you can enjoy a peaceful night’s rest that makes for a welcome change of pace from the hubbub of Paris. Just don’t sleep on the region’s restaurants and wine bars.
Since its “hillsides, houses and cellars” were named an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015, and with the rise of the region’s grower-producer movement, Champagne has seen an influx of tourists and a new focus on welcoming visitors. And dining is an essential part of that equation, with many exciting new options opening in the past few years, and classic establishments winning renewed appreciation. When visiting the region, keep the following list of our picks for the best restaurants and wine bars in Champagne in mind.
Journeying to Le Garde Champêtre is a bit of a pilgrimage. And it’s completely worth it. This restaurant, in a former train depot in the Aube (in the southern reaches of Champagne), is the project of restaurateur and wine retailer Juan Sanchez. Its founders include winemakers Émilie and Cédric Bouchard and Jean-Pierre and Véronique Josselin. This is as farm-to-table as it gets: ingredients come from the organic farm right outside the door or are sourced from local producers. Chefs Kazuya Miyashita and Saeki Morrooka create courses such as mushroom wontons with celeriac, lemongrass, and coconut milk; leg of lamb crowned by an oyster and wild garlic; and a bay leaf ice cream for dessert. The natural-leaning wine list features small-scale local producers—some of whom might even stop in for dinner while you’re there—including Ruppert-Leroy and Marie Courtin. The high ceilings, open kitchen, large fireplace, and welcoming service make the space feel bright and airy, yet still intimate and inviting. If you don’t feel like post-prandial travel, you can book a stay at The River House, an 18th-century three-bedroom guesthouse, run by the same group, that's just a short walk along the river from the restaurant.
Situated in an elegant 19th-century château that also houses a 10-room hotel run by Anselme and Corinne Selosse, this restaurant feels upscale yet utterly relaxed. Though the wine list is loaded with all-stars from Champagne and beyond, the draw of Les Avisés for many is the availability of Domaine Jacques Selosse’s portfolio—including the coveted Substance cuvée for €530 (a relative bargain, considering it’s scarcity and commensurate pricing in the U.S.). But the meal will be one of your best in Champagne. Chef Stéphane Rossillon uses locally sourced, seasonal ingredients to create dishes like rillettes de poisson served atop a salad of bulgur, bright crunchy greens and vinaigrette, topped with a slice of fresh avocado and a dollop of caviar. The menu changes daily, and is written on the chalkboard-covered kitchen door by Rossillon's wife, Nathalie, who somehow manages to single-handedly provide impeccable service to the entire restaurant. (Bonus: if you do opt for a bottle of Selosse, you can witness the winery’s NFC technology in action.)
There is no burger joint in the world with a better wine list—period, full stop, end of story. The wine program at this local hangout is focused on—you guessed it— Champagne; the acidity is a perfect match for the fat and salt of the tasty burgers, fried chicken, and fish and chips. Your favorite grower Champagne is available here: Guillaume Selosse (son of Anselme), Élise Bougy, Étienne Calsac, Vouette et Sorbée. There’s also a superb selection of still wines from Champagne, Burgundy, Jura, and beyond. You can even order a bottle of Corison Cabernet if you insist on pairing a Napa Cab with your smash burger and fries. The owners also run a sister eatery, Sacré Bistro, in Épernay, a town that is otherwise a bit short on dining options.
Beloved by locals, this lively wine bar feels like a party. The Champagne list is stacked, of course, but if you’ve somehow managed to grow weary of quaffing the stuff a few days into your trip, you can enjoy a bottle of Pierre Gonon Saint-Joseph or Domaine Tempier Bandol. The food menu offers delicious small plates and charcuterie, such as serrano ham croquettes, flambéed prawns, Morteau sausage, and “nuggets de poulet.” Service is friendly, and exceptionally well-informed when it comes to the extensive cellar.
If you’re looking to seriously splurge on dinner and trying to decide between the several Michelin-starred restaurants in Champagne, this is the place. Located just outside of Reims, this three-star establishment is helmed by the award-winning chef Arnaud Lallement. His food is a love letter to the region’s wines, and with more than 1,000 different Champagnes to choose from, the carte des vins is as comprehensive as you’ll find here. The wine pairings offered with the “Emotion” menu are a mix of classics—like Krug Grande Cuvée Edition 171 with Petrossian caviar—and deeper cuts such as Normandy scallops with a blanc de noirs from Champagne Oudiette et Filles, or duck and a Girard-Bonnet Coteaux Champenois Rouge. The meal concludes with a cocktail of coffee and Ratafia de Champagne, a sweet fortified wine made from the final pressings of Champagne grapes and grape spirit, which earned appellation status in 2015.
Stop by this cheerful wine bar and gourmet deli for artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, and smoked fish to go, or grab a reservation for lunch or dinner in the cozy dining space. With an earnest focus on small-scale producers of food and wine, owners Aline and Eric Serva—who worked in fashion and public radio, respectively, before opening Au Bon Manger—offer a carefully curated selection of organic and biodynamic Champagnes and natural wines, which can be chosen for you by the knowledgeable staff. Aline also produces a very limited (less than 1,000 bottles per cuvée) line of Champagnes in collaboration with grower-producers like Olivier Horiot and Leclerc Briant.
An English pub, serving jalapeño poppers and hot dogs, in the heart of Reims? Yes, and the selection of grower Champagnes (Suenen, Georges Laval, Ulysse Collin, Chartogne-Taillet, to name just a few) is killer, with a rotating menu of by-the-glass pours served in Zalto stemware. Beyond Champagne, you have your pick of Dagueneau, Dureuil-Janthial, Sylvain Pataille, Jean-Marc Roulot, and many more. Order a bottle, post up at a table outside, and people-watch the afternoon away, or stop in for late-night bubbles, loud music, and something deep-fried to perfection.
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