I had my first sip of Lambrusco when studying abroad in Valencia. The bottle cost roughly 2 euros. It was sweet, bubbly, and very easy to drink. Then: a dinner, around a decade later. We were discussing what to drink with grilled meat—and a chilled Lambrusco appeared on the table. It was dry with a crisp acidity, aromas of black fruit and pepper, and paired wonderfully with a plate of charcuterie and grilled steak. This wine was nothing like I remembered from that hazy night in Spain. Was this also Lambrusco?

The answer is simple: yes. There’s the Lambrusco that was made for export, and there is the Lambrusco that, historically, was mostly only found in its home region, Emilia-Romagna. Thanks to smaller wine shops and natural wine producers, Lambrusco’s reputation has come a long way. Wines made by such producers are finding their way outside of the region. It could lead you to believe that the Lambrusco produced now is better than what many of us remember. But there has always been good Lambrusco. It just didn't travel very far. 

Lambrusco: The History

Lambrusco grapes produced Emilia-Romagna’s oldest documented wine. “Labrusca vitis,” or “wild grape” in Latin, was known to the Etruscans and ancient Romans and is related to the Lambrusco varieties that exist today. The fertile ground around the Po river was praised by Pliny the Elder in 78 A.D., and remains one of the most important productive and agricultural areas in Italy. This is also reflected in the local cuisine. Here, ravioli, tortellini, and ragu originated; here Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, Aceto Balsamico di Modena, and the exquisite cured meat culatello di Zibello are produced today. Meat is often a main ingredient in Emilia-Romagna—it’s an inland region—and the area's hearty cuisine has long required a wine that can stand up to its dishes while being not too ripe and tannic. 

Currently, there are over 60 different Lambrusco grapes in Italy, but most wines produced in Emilia-Romagna are made from five varieties: Salamino, Grasparossa, Maestri, Marani, and Sorbara. Lambrusco is often referred to as one monolithic wine, but given the diversity of grapes and terroirs and subregions, real Lambrusco wines offer an intense variety of flavors and complexity. This diversity is reflected in its three DOCs: Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce. In 2021, the Lambrusco estate Fattoria Moretto founded “Monte Barello 155,” a project aimed at converting the Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC into a DOCG— which denotes the highest quality level for Italian wines. "We strive for high quality,” says Alessio Altariva, the winemaker at Fattoria Moretto, “and hope that winemakers follow in our pursuit.” 

Fermentation is Everything

Some grapes can handle anything. Chardonnay is extremely versatile, which is why it’s grown pretty much everywhere, and if you throw the must of Sangiovese grapes in a wooden barrel, chances are you’ll be able to drink whatever comes out of it. Lambrusco varieties are more difficult to handle. “The key is the fermentation,” explains Belgian winemaker Sebastian Van de Sype, who moved to Italy a decade ago. His vineyard is located in Castelvetro, in the province of Modena, where he cultivates 10 hectares worth of vineyards. “Making red wine and making sparkling wine are the two most technical wine categories put together, which are then also diametrically opposed: tannins versus CO2 and acid,” Van de Sype continues. “Those elements are all on the same side of the palate. The right method of fermentation is key in balancing all of that.” 

There are three common methods to make sparkling wine. The oldest—and most used since the 1700s in Emilia-Romagna—is the ancestral method. It was originally discovered by accident around Limoux, France, in 1531, and requires less equipment than the traditional, or Champagne, method. (All those pét-nats? Ancestral method.) But it was the arrival in the 1950s of the Charmat method, often known as the metodo Martinotti in Italy, that changed things for Italian sparkling wine and Lambrusco. With this method, the second fermentation takes place in large metal temperature-controlled tanks. The metodo Martinotti resulted in more stable wines that could also be produced in much higher quantities. The method was first used to produce Prosecco, and quickly found its way to Emilia-Romagna.

Metodo Martinotti proved to be good and bad for the industry. On the one hand, winemakers could quickly produce more predictable, and thus more marketable, wines. On the other hand, it led to industrial-scale production—if you shudder to remember cloyingly sweet Riunite, you can thank the metodo Martinotti—and Lambrusco’s quality and reputation suffered. For local winemakers who never followed the path of the big producers, the decline of their beloved wine was difficult to watch. One of them is Denny Bini, owner and winemaker of Podere Cipolla: “My parents and grandparents produced Lambrusco on their own premises, according to the metodo ancestrale. Their wine was dry with a nice acidity, to pair well with the meat, and completely natural. If sweet wines were made, it was not on purpose,” he says. “Harvesting the grapes too late, due to a lack of viticultural knowledge, could result in residual sugar—and, thus, a sweet wine. But it was never the goal.” 

The Terroirs of Lambrusco

Just as with any other wine, terroir plays an equally essential role in Lambrusco. The right terroir for a dark red Lambrusco Grasparossa is completely different from the conditions that you need to produce a light rosé Sorbara. Cantina Paltrinieri is located in Via Cristo, a very narrow piece of land between two rivers, and only produces blends of Salamino and Sorbara. The high humidity, strong winds, and a permeable soil consisting of sand and clay all play a key role in Paltrinelli’s wines displaying such finesse. The humidity ensures that even with the increasingly hot summers, vines don't need irrigation. The sandy soils provide the perfect terrain for a light rosé—and the wind keeps the mildew away, which can be a problem in humid regions.

Lambrusco’s many other great producers include Poderi Fiorini (which produces powerful red wines near the border of Tuscany); Cantina della Volta (Giuseppe and son Christian Bellei are pioneers in méthode traditionelle in the region); and Venturini Baldini (a 16th century family estate that’s now completely organic). They all testify to the versatility of the wine. Which is good, because there is still a lot of work to be done to undo the damage that the ‘70s and ‘80s did to Lambrusco’s reputation, even in Italy. “The offensive term ‘Italy’s Coca-Cola’ originated in the U.S., thanks to brands such as Riunite,” says Altariva. “Because Lambrusco was not known outside of our small region at the time, everyone else—including Italians from other regions—associated Lambrusco with the new and cheap export product. We’re hoping to change that.”

“We know Lambrusco is not a Barolo, and it doesn’t need to be,” he continues. “But it does have its place within our rich wine culture.” Just as serious, thoughtfully made Lambrusco deserves a place on your dinner table—during summer and beyond.  

FIVE GREAT LAMBRUSCOS

2023 Camillo Donati Il Mio Lambrusco ($21)

“My Lambrusco,” produced with the dark-skinned Maestri variety. A dark ruby with violet hues, the nose is rich in red fruit and floral notes—a full red wine with excellent acidity and a light tannic texture. Try with some grilled meat or pasta al ragu.

2018 Cantina della Volta Lambrusco di Sorbara Spumante Metodo Classico Brut Rosé ($40)

A rosé Lambrusco that perfectly showcases the lighter side of Lambrusco. Aromas of strawberry and red berries finished with a crisp acidity on the palate. A refreshing start to your evening—or, for that matter, your afternoon.

2023 Fattoria Moretto Monovitigno ($25)

A complex and spicy Lambrusco with hints of black pepper. A fine example of how complex a Lambrusco can be—a perfect balance of acidity, elegance, and tannins. Try this with the Emilia-Romagna specialty tortellini en brodo, a classic regional dish from Emilia-Romagna.

2021 Fiorini Corte Degli Attimi Lambrusco di Sorbara ($24)

A bright rosé with very fine bubbles, with scents of violets, raspberries, and mint immediately standing out. Fresh and fruity with good acidity, structure, and a long finish.

2022 Medici Ermete "Phermento" Metodo Ancestrale Lambrusco di Modena ($27)

A bottle for all occasions. This rosé has vibrant aromas of wild strawberry, rosemary, and rose petals. The energizing acidity and crisp lime notes are fresh on the palate and leave you longing for a second glass.