Along with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, Aglianico is considered one of the big three when it comes to Italian grapes. Yet it definitely isn’t as well known as the other two. Maybe it’s just geography. Aglianico is found in Southern Italy, particularly in Campania and Basilicata, and there are vast differences between Italy’s South—which encompasses everything below Rome—and its North. I still recall a comment made by a waiter in Melfi, a small town in the region of Basilicata, when he learned I was  visiting from Belgium: ‘Oh, you have a lot of rain, just like in Milan.’ For some, Northern Italy might as well be Scandinavia. 

Aglianico is a dark-skinned grape that produces powerful wines with lots of tannin and high acidity, especially within the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) Aglianico del Vulture, located in Basilicata and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) Taurasi, located in Campania. 

Locals often refer to their beloved wines from these appellations as ‘Barolo of the South.’ Not just because of some similarities between Aglianico and Nebbiolo; the grapes are quite distinct, and more about that in a moment. But because, until the early 20th century, Barolo often contained Aglianico, which was typically added during Piemonte vintages that had subpar harvests. While northern Italian wine became famous during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the best appellations that focused on Aglianico did not. This delayed the development of certain wine regions, and led to something of an inferiority complex in the South.  

What do Aglianico and Nebbiolo have in common? Both are naturally high in tannins and acidity, and both are late bloomers that benefit from later harvests. But there are vast differences. Aglianico is more fond of the sun, tends more towards ripe and dark fruit characteristics, and thrives when grown on volcanic soil. Campania is home to both active volcanoes, such as Vesuvius and Campei Flegrei as well as extinct volcanoes and volcanic subsoil. In Basilicata the regions around Melfi, Potenza and Monte Vulture are sometimes referred to as the Dolomiti Lucane because the landscape is similar to that of the Dolomites (although not volcanic). Indeed, the greatest Aglianico can be found on the volcanic subsoils of the Taburno, Taurasi, and Monte Vulture DOCGs.

Aglianico is found in regions that have hot, sunny summers, which can result in jammy wines high in alcohol.—though there are a few things winemakers can do to ameliorate this problem. In the better DOCGs Aglianico is planted on elevated terrain—some of which is 2,000 feet above sea level, or even higher. The higher altitude guarantees greater temperature fluctuations between day and night, which result in grapes with a higher acidity and wines with more freshness. Skilled winemakers also know that Aglianico benefits from gentle pneumatic pressing during vinification—and that a harder pressing results in unpleasantly harsh, tannic wines. Lastly, timing of harvest plays an important role. Aglianico’s long ripening helps the grape to mitigate, somewhat, its naturally high acidity and powerful tannins. 

Elena Fucci and Aglianico’s Generazione Vulture

But perhaps the major factor behind Aglianico’s lack of (international) recognition is where you find it. Piemonte is near Milan, and Tuscany’s romance goes hand in hand with that of its major city of Florence. Basilicata is a remote, mountainous region with an underdeveloped economy, and hardly any tourists. There is no marketing and commercial apparatus like that of Piemonte there. And while grapes have been an integral part of the region for centuries, local knowledge of viticulture long lagged Italy’s renowned Northern regions. For a long time, Basilicata’s grape production was secondary to olive and tobacco. Even though grape harvest happened in November, olive pressing was more locally important, and grapes were often macerated for almost three months. Given Aglianico is already a grape naturally high in tannins and acidity, it should come as no surprise that such lengthy macerations produced rather harsh wines. 

Also, until the 1970’s, the regions of Vulture and Taurasi only had winegrowers but no real winemakers. The grapes were sold to local cantinas or transported to Piemonte. Especially in Vulture, the lesser known region of the two, this led to resentment toward the north and, perhaps, a lack of ambition to do better. Today, there are still winemakers there who are frustrated that the region seems to be at a standstill, and that many young people with potential seek opportunities up north. 

Then there are winemakers like Elena Fucci. Her family has long owned famous Titolo vineyards, which are planted on some of the most interesting subsoils in the region. The subsoil is mainly clay, with underlying layers of volcanic tuff. Ian D'Agata describes those vineyards as the region's only ‘grand cru hors classe.’ However, the estate has only produced its own wines since 2000, when Elena took over the domain. Her reputation has since grown exponentially, and she is now considered one of the best winemakers in Italy. An emerging group of interesting newer estates and  winemakers in the region draw inspiration from her, such as Cantina di Enza and Massimo Carleo; perhaps inevitably, they are known as Generazione Vulture. They stand against longstanding local winemaking practices  which, in their view, are not sufficiently open to organic farming, or moving away from aging in small wooden barrels. 

The renaissance of the Taurasi region started much earlier. Its winemakers and grape growers were more aware of the value of their terroir and wines. The wines from the small family estate of Salla Delle Spine were the first to win the honor of DOC status, in 1971, and the Mastroberardino estate’s DOCG Taurasis began to garner international notice in the 1980s. 

Aglianico and Climate Change

Just as any other region in southern Europe, climate change poses huge challenges to Aglianico’s home regions, all of which report less annual rainfall, heavier storms during growing season—and of course, rising temperatures, which make it more and more difficult to maintain the necessary acidity. However, according to two studies from the University of Naples, Aglianco seems to be well up for the challenge. When simulating two climate projections on three different vineyards in Molise, Campania and Sicily, it turns out that Aglianico—particularly when compared to Cabernet Sauvignon—remains best suited for climate change. The specific volcanic terroir and biodiversity surrounding the vineyards of the south are to thank—and volcanic soils, since they drain very well, are well-suited to weather the more intense storms winemakers now see. Which means, perversely enough, rising temperatures and heavier rains in the sunny South could work to Aglianico’s advantage. Watch out, Barolo. The great Aglianico wines could be coming for you.

AGLIANICO WINES TO KNOW

2019 Elena Fucci SCEG Aglianico del Vulture ($35)

Aromas of crisp red fruit, minerality, herbs and pepper, along with a hint of wood. Supple and spicy on the palate. Nice acidity with subtle tannins—remarkably smooth, and pairs perfectly with a charcuterie plate. 

2019 Elena Fucci Titolo by Amphora Aglianico del Vulture ($50)   

A very concentrated palate, with notes of dried red fruits, elderberries, and bay leaf. The onset is spicy, and the acidity and tannins meld nicely in the medium-long and spicy finish. Aged 18 months in amphorae.

2017 Musto Carmelitano Pian Del Moro Aglianico del Vulture (NA)

Complex, with aromas of blackberry, pepper, cinnamon and sweeter spices and licorice and leather. A full, round body with firm tannins and acidity. Aged 12 months in large French oak barrels. 

2019 Il Cancelliere Gioviano (NA) 

From the Irpinia DOC in Campania, and aged six months in Slovenian wooden barrels. Strong tones of blackberries, smoky notes and balsamic vinegar. Gives a strong first impression, with nicely woven tannins and a medium body.

2018 Mastroberardino Radici ($40) 

From arguably the greatest producer in the Taurasi DOCG.  A spicy nose with aromas of green herbs such as thyme and bay leaf, alongside dark, dried black cherry and cigar box and licorice. Elegant and powerful, with a fine acidity and pleasurable tannins.