Madrid is having a bit of a renaissance.

Perhaps, as some locals believe, it’s because the city opened back up to tourism in the wake of the pandemic far sooner than Barcelona or Granada. Or maybe it’s simply because, in the course of 1,100 years of history, every city is bound to have a few moments in the sun. Whatever the reason, things are very much happening right now in Spain’s capital.

The resurgence is especially obvious in the number of new and refreshed hotels popping up across the city, including the indulgent Four Seasons Hotel and Mandarin Oriental Ritz. But it’s equally apparent in the many new hotspots, popular among locals, that are young and modern without sacrificing time-honored Spanish traditions.

“As picturesque and entertaining as Plaza Mayor, Mercado San Miguel and Calle Cava Baja are, those aren’t the spots where most locals hang out,” explains Luis Burgueño, winemaker and export manager for Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres. “If you want to feel like a real madrileño you want to go and hang out in Barrio Salamanca and El Retiro. These two neighborhoods combine traditional and modern—they’re the happening spots.”

To experience the newly energized Madrid like a local wine expert, you’re going to want to look beyond the well-trodden culinary stops (Calle de Ponzano and the areas Burgueño notes above, among them), and perhaps even allow yourself to walk through a few unmarked doors to get to the really good stuff.

Here’s where Burgueño, as well as Silvia García, head sommelier at Madrid’s Mandarin Oriental Ritz, suggest dining, drinking, and shopping while exploring the capital of Spain:

Morning

Burgueño: “Start your day at Quintin with chocolate con churros or porras (a bigger version of churros). You have not tasted a real hot chocolate until you are in Madrid. It’s way more than thick. You want to dip the churro and savor it. Half a dozen churros will suffice.”

García: “The Prado Museum is the most important art center in the city. The museum is impressive and it houses amazing masterpieces. However, lately I am very fond of Colección SOLO. It’s an international arts project based in Madrid which aims to foster, support and share the artwork of today. Estudio SOLO (which houses the Colección SOLO) offers private guided visits, which are perfect to really understand the pieces and discover new contemporary artists.”

García: “A very special place for me is Cuesta de Moyano, just by the Prado Museum once you pass the Botanic Gardens. It is a small pedestrian street lined with 30 book stalls. The history of this permanent book fair, which is open every day of the week, dates back to 1925, when sellers sat offering books for just 15 cents. Renowned Spanish writer Ramón Gómez de la Serna nicknamed it the ‘feria del boquerón,’ since you could purchase a book for the same price as a boquerón (an anchovy). Over the last few years, it has been revamped, creating a quaint pedestrian street with a bike lane that’s popular with locals and visitors alike. The old stalls have been replaced by more comfortable ones, but they maintain a very similar aesthetic to the originals.”

Afternoon

Burgueño: “You have to have lunch at Ten con Ten. It’s as they claim: vibrant, cosmopolitan and fun. Verdinas con codorniz (green beans with quail) will make you savor Northern Spain. Or have a Hamburguesa de rabo de toro, bull’s tail burger—it’s what you enjoy after watching a bullfight.”

Burgueño: “If you are interested in world-renowned designers and want to pick something up to bring home as a souvenir, you’ll want to hit up Calle Serrano—it’s basically Madrid’s Golden Mile. If you’re more into talented independent designers, go to the Malasaña and Chueca neighborhoods.”

García: “Dis-tinto is a very cozy, nice tavern in the Barrio de las Letras with tapas and a good selection of wines by the glass. It has around 350 wines, of which 50 are by the glass. I always recommend one of the high tables near the entrance. And ask for the sommelier’s advice. It’s the place to be for wine lovers in the afternoon or a fun and informal dinner. You’ll often run into oenologists or winemakers having a drink there.”

Evening

Burgueño: “I like to spend evenings indulging at Taberna Laredo. Three siblings—Miguel, David and Javier—take up their mother’s legacy and turn traditional cuisine into avant-garde food. Try their rabbit chops.”

Burgueño: “I always suggest guests check into the Icon Wipton Hotel or at least stop by the neighborhood. It's a boutique hotel located in the heart of Barrio Salamanca on Jorge Juan St., the core of one of the most trendy spots in Madrid today. Enjoy a cocktail next door at The Jungle Jazz Club by Amazonico before going to dinner.”

García: “For a cocktail with your date, head to Savas Bar In the Madrilenian neighborhood of Lavapiés.  It’s on Sombrerería Street, but you might miss it—it’s discreet and you can walk past it, so pay attention. They serve classic cocktails with a personal touch from Gintas and Dovi, the owners. One of my favorites is the Gimlet Jazmin, made with Martin Miller's gin and a green tea cordial with jasmine and lime. But don’t miss the blackboard, where they offer drinks that change according to the inspiration of the day. Simply wonderful.”

Late Night

Burgueño: “You have to check out Salvaje on Velazquez Street. It's not about the food, it's about the ambiance and being seen—it's a trendy place. Have a few cocktails and watch the beautiful people.”

Burgueño: “Spain is the country of Sherry—don’t miss out on sherry wines. Brothers David and Mario run Angelita in Chueca. Whether or not you’re a wine geek, just go and taste any kind of sherry wine they have. It’ll be a unique experience that can’t be replicated—it will put you on the right track to fall in love with Sherry.”

Burgueño: “The ME Madrid Reina Victoria is well worth checking out (or checking into). 

The hotel is surrounded by the capital’s best gastronomic offerings, and it has a breathtaking rooftop bar.”

García: “I love to go to Chispa Bistró with friends. It’s an open and unlabeled kitchen. If you go, pay attention to the first page of the wine list, or simply let yourself be carried away by Ismael [Chispa’s sommelier]. And do not miss the cheese board and sweetbreads.