The below tasting notes encompass the producers cited in its companion piece, Riding Rioja’s New Wave.

As I wrote in my report on Rioja's new wave, the generational shift in Rioja is one of the most exciting stories in wine right now. Expect wines that emphasize freshness and energy over wood and power, cool-climate wines grown at higher altitudes, smart blends over monovarietal Tempranillo, a commitment to organic or biodynamic farming, and, most importantly, a renewed sense of place. Anyone seeking to understand Rioja's new wave would do well with any of these two dozen bottles.

Reds

2020 Artuke “La Condenada" ($160)
A field blend from a small parcel in a vineyard planted in 1920, this is one of the most coveted reds in Rioja, and a stunning example of the region’s new wave. Complex, intense, nuanced; by turns herbal, earthy, and ripe. Notes of blackberry and black cherry, with thrilling acidity and elegant tannins, and an incredibly long finish. Totally balanced and seamless, with a long life ahead of it. Not cheap, but a shockingly good value for one of the finest reds in the world. This will only get harder to find in years to come.

2020 Oxer Wines "Kalamity" ($150)
Another of the most coveted bottles of new-wave Rioja, Kalamity’s label offers a challenge (via Shakespeare in Edward III): “Shame be to him who thinks evil of it.” A blend of 48 percent Tempranillo, 48 percent Garnacha, 2 percent Viura,and  2 percent Garnacha Blanca, and such a complex wine, layered with black fruit, forest notes, wild herbs, spice, and black pepper. There’s an undercurrent that’s wild and untamed, but this remains precise, balanced, and long. A truly incredible bottle.

2020 Remírez de Ganuza "Iraila" ($117)
Beautiful high-altitude Garnacha from winemaker Jesús Mendoza, who says “of the modern side we are the most classic, and of the classic side, we are the most modern.” From 50-year-old vines and aged six months in a mix of ceramic and cigar-shaped barrels, this is delicate, mineral, juicy, and absolutely delightful.

2021 Arizcuren "Barranco del Prado" ($85)
Amazing red from a 130-year-old vineyard that sits more than 2,500 feet above sea level. Mostly Garnacha, with a tiny percentage of Graciano and local white varieties. It’s wild, intense, dense, with aromas of fresh mountain herbs and flowers, crunchy red fruit on the palate, white pepper, juicy acidity, and full of great tension.

2020 Gómez Cruzado "Cerro Las Cuevas" ($75)
Cool, complex blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, and Mazeulo. Floral, dark minerality, fresh plum, a touch of spice. Both classic and modern.

2018 Pujanza "Norte" ($75)
Great illustration of thrilling high-elevation Tempranillo, fresh and full of finesse, with lots of wild berry and mint, along with floral and forest notes.

2021 Arizcuren "Finca El Foro" ($70)
Complex, pretty field blend of 60 percent Garnacha with 35 percent Mazuelo, a little Viura, and a smidge of Tempranillo and obscure local grapes Garnacha Gris and Miguel de Arco. Fresh, bright, and floral at first, with berry and violet notes. Then comes the black pepper, graphite, and deeper savory notes leading to a long mineral finish. A great example of the potential in Rioja Baja.

2019 Bodegas Valdemar "Balcón de Pilates" Maturana ($57)
Unique bottling of 100 percent Maturana, a grape that was only approved by the appellation in 2007, of which there are only 170 hectares planted. Dark and savory—think Cabernet Franc—with notes of plum, piquillo pepper, and a stony finish.

2022 Elena Corzana Maturana (n/a)
Another exquisite example of Maturana, fermented in amphora made from local clay. Aromas and flavors of black cherry, black olive, dark minerality, and cool, savory finish. The wines of Elena Corzana currently have no distribution in the U.S. (though you can find them in Canada). Let's hope some importer will soon discover these wines.

2020 Oxer Wines "Suzzane" ($53)
Oxer Bastegieta's 100 percent Garnacha is named after the Leonard Cohen song "Suzzane," and its got a similarly mellow, off-kilter vibe. Aged in concrete egg and French oak, there's complexity and elegance, with aromas and flavors of juicy red fruit and purple flowers, tinged by surprising spice and tobacco notes.

2021 Jose Gil "San Vincente de la Sonsierra" ($50)
A blend of Tempranillo with 20 percent Garnacha and a tiny percentage of white varieties, this is José Gil’s village wine, from grapes grown around 1,600 feet above sea level. Gorgeous floral, blackberry, and cherry aromas and flavors, tinged with earthy and savory notes, and balanced by spice and mineral.

2022 Aiurri Landua (n/a)
A new Rioja project from Alma Carraovejas, started in 2020 in the village of Leza. A field blend of 75 percent Tempranillo, along with Garnacha, Graciano, Viura, and Malvasia, this is a serious, intense, and delicious, with great structure, dark minerality, and a long finish. It's not in the U.S. market yet, but keep an eye out for this producer.

2021 Artuke "Finca de los Locos" ($40)
This is Artuke’s village wine, from the Baños de Ebro, a blend of 75 percent Tempranillo, 20 percent Graciano, and 5 percent Viura from a 40-year-old vineyard. Bright and fresh, with lots of power and complexity, with notes of wild berry, herbs, and spice.

2019 Tentenublo Escondite del Ardacho "Las Guillermas" ($38)

From a 70-year-old vineyard site, a stunning blend of 60 percent Tempranillo and 40 percent Viura. It's a Rioja red that drinks like a white, with classic notes of purple flowers and tobacco along with warm citrus and stone fruit.

2020 Sierra de Toloño "Raposo" ($25)
A wonderful introduction to new-wave Rioja, and at an incredible price for such complexity. This is Tempranillo with classic notes of leather and dusty tannins, but with a freshness and bright, juicy fruit that you’ve rarely tasted. The forthcoming 2021 may be the best-ever version of this.

2022 Sierra de Toloño "La Dula" ($25)
A terrific example of how fresh, drinkable, and pure Garnacha in Rioja can be, and yet another great value from winemaker Sandra Bravo. From a 70-year-old high-elevation vineyard (2,300 feet above sea level), pretty and crunchy, with juicy notes of berry and blood orange, and an intense, long finish.

2019 Tentenublo Tinto ($25)
Roberto Oliván of Tentenublo began adding whites to most of his red blends after the extremely hot vintage of 2012—an old tradition in Rioja that the new-wave producers have brought back. Oliván’s entry-level red is an old-school blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo, and 10 percent white varieties. It’s rich, fruity, and chalky, with an underlying tobacco note. Great balance of bright and earthy, fruity and mineral—and a great value. Keep an eye out for Tentenublo’s Escondite del Ardacho single-vineyard series, which is difficult to find in the U.S.

2020 Olivier Rivière "Gabaxo" ($25)
“Gabaxo” is a derogatory Spanish term for French people—similar to "gringo"—and its a cheeky nickname for Olivier Rivière, who came to Rioja from France. This blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha from high-altitude vineyards is linear and precise. Black fruit with spice and black pepper, and an attractive underlying earthiness.

Whites

Fans of López de Heredia’s Viña Gravonia or CVNE’s Monopole Classico (perhaps Rioja’s most famous whites) already understand the potential of Rioja Blanco. But the embrace of Rioja's white wine is a relatively recent phenomenon. Among the benchmarks of the new wave:

Remírez de Ganuza "Olagar" Gran Reserva ($120)
A stunning world-class white from a 40-year-old vineyard sited 2,300 feet above sea level. Elegant and complex; released with some age on it. The nose is Chenin Blanc-like, with aromas of bees wax, lavender, and yellow apple. On the palate, there’s ripe apple and pear, and an underlying and appealing waxy, unctuous quality.

Abel Mendoza "5V" Blanco ($64)
A blend of five grapes—Viura, Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Turruntés– and one of Rioja’s greatest whites.

2020 Pujanza Anteportalatina ($50)

From Viura, aged both in oak and concrete egg. Aromas of beeswax and white blossoms, and flavors of pear, golden apple, honeydew on the palate. Generous, round, mellow, and delightful. Very difficult to find in the U.S.

2021 Artuke "Trascuevas" ($46)
This was the first white made by Artuke, and it’s elegant and delicious. A complex blend of 90 percent Viura, with some Malvasia and Palomino, aged in both oak and concrete egg for 10 months. Juicy, floral, with notes of nectarine, tangerine, alongside bright acidity and underlying notes of struck stone.

2021 Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria ($30)
From a Viñedo Singular, with nine hectares of 50-year-old Viura. This is seamless, with aromas of wax, pear, and honeysuckle. On the palate there’s warm citrus notes, a lovely rainwater texture, and a chalky, salty finish. This is an age-worthy white: I also tasted a 1995 Finca Alto Cantabria that was incredibly fresh and vibrant. Valdemar also makes a terrific sparkling wine from this special vineyard.

2020 Sierra de Toloño Blanco ($18)
Super expressive Viura, with aromas of apricot and pineapple. On the palate, it’s straight and elegant, with lots of finesse, and underlying minerality that gives it fine structure. A great introduction to Rioja whites.

To read the companion feature, click here.