Two vague terms get thrown around way too much in the world of wine.

The first is value. The second is Burgundian.

When you write about Pinot Noir, you’re quickly faced with both of these nebulous terms. That’s because, when you write about this popular grape, you’re also quickly faced with two truths: People love Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir, particularly from Burgundy, is the most consistently overpriced wine on the market. Thus, Pinot lovers are forced to chase “value” for wines that are “Burgundian.” Which is how we end up thinking of $80 red Burgundy as “good value.” As my colleague Jason Jacobeit noted in his astute piece last month, “Red Burgundy doesn’t do downright inexpensive well.” 

So what to do?

For years now, I’ve been telling Pinot Noir fans to look a little further north, and learn a little German. Well, really just one word, Spätburgunder (SHPAYT-bur-GUHN-der). That’s German for Pinot Noir, literally translating to “late Burgundy” (and differentiating itself from Weissburgunder, or Pinot Blanc, and Grauburgunder, or Pinot Gris).

Yes, folks, they grow a lot of Pinot Noir in Germany. They’ve been growing it there for about 1000 years. It’s the most widely planted red grape in the country. In fact, Germany is the third largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world. Yet I’m always surprised that more American wine drinkers have never tried German Spätburgunder. Part of that is surely lack of availability in the U.S. But that is changing.

Honestly, I had been skeptical of Spätburgunder for a long time. But the overall quality, consistency, and style right now—especially in the $25-50 range—has won me over. Nearly every wine region in the world tries to channel its “inner Burgundy” and attempts to make Pinot Noir. Too often, what you get are overpriced, oaky, jammy, raspberry-juice bombs. It was like that in Germany, too, for many years. But not anymore.

Across the board, it’s a fresher, sleeker, more vibrant style of Pinot Noir now coming from regions like Ahr, Baden, Württemberg, and Pfalz. Critics are already buzzing about the 2022 vintage, which follows a good, cool 2021 vintage, and a hotter, drier 2020 vintage. At the top level, Spätburgunder from Grosses Gewächs (or “grand cru”) now rivals top Burgundy, and at significantly lower prices. At all price levels, look for producers such as Meyer-Näkel and Bertram-Baltes in Ahr, Schnaitmann and Dautel in Württemberg, Dr. Heger, Ziereisen, or Bernhard Huber in Baden, Rudolf Fürst in Franken, or Friedrich Becker in Pfalz.

Pfalz winemaker Hansjörg Rebholz of Ökonomierat Rebholz told me that Germans themselves now expect a lot from their Pinot Noirs. “We have a chance now,” he said, “because Burgundy is too expensive.”

So What Is German Pinot Noir?

So how has a country known best for cool-climate whites become known for Pinot Noir? Climate is one reason. While climate change has brought about severe weather events (such as the tragic 2021 floods in Ahr) to Germany’s wine regions, a side effect is that grapes can reach a ripeness they simply couldn’t in the past. “Our professors in school told us, ‘Pay attention to Pinot Noir, because you are now receiving the climate that made Burgundy famous,’” said Franz Wehrheim of Weingut Dr. Wehrheim in Pfalz. “We can invest in Pinot Noir in a way that no generation before was able to.”

So how does one describe German Pinot Noir? “It’s hard to say what a German Pinot Noir is, because there are so many,” said Christian Dautel of Weingut Dautel. “It’s impossible to define a German Pinot Noir.” After tasting several dozen Spätburgunders, in many styles from numerous terroirs, over the past couple of weeks, I agree with Dautel.

Overall, German clones of Pinot Noir generally give a bit more red fruit and acidity, and fewer tannins, than Burgundian clones. But it’s hard to generalize about Pinot Noir that comes from a range of soils such as limestone in Baden, or slate in Ahr, or loess and sandstone in Pfalz. Pinot Noir from Ahr, for instance, may veer more hedonistic versus more focused and precise wines from limestone-rich areas. Spätburgunder can definitely be many different things. (See my tasting notes for 18 of my favorites below.)

One constant in my tastings, however, has been the high quality. Much of it has been Burgundian. Most of it has been a better value than much of what’s coming from, say, Oregon or New Zealand. 

Yep. I said it.

Spotting Special Spätburgunder

The Grosses Gewächs

A half-dozen “grand cru” from all over Germany—from Ahr to Baden to Pfalz to Württemberg to Franken—that clearly show top-end Spätburgunder can rival Burgundy at half the price.

2021 Meyer-Näkel “Blue Slate” ($100)

From the tragic flood vintage in Ahr, and vines miraculously saved at Meyer-Näkel. And this wine clearly demonstrates how miraculous Pinot Noir grown on slate can be. A nose full of violets, cracked peppercorn, and a hint of smoke. Fresh and light, yet so much tension on the palate, with blackberry, black currant, and layers of peppery tannins, leading to a miles-long finish.

2019 Dautel Forstberg ($72)

Dautel is one of Württemberg’s best red wine producers, and this incredibly elegant and silky Spätburgunder delivers the goods. Savory, leafy aromas mingle with red fruit on the nose, and then comes the juicy, fresh black cherry and cranberry on the palate. Full of energy and balanced with serious minerality. World-class Pinot at a great price.

2017 Friedrich Becker Sankt Paul ($119)

In Pfalz, wineries are permitted to have vineyards across the French border in Alsace, which is where this is grown, on 30- to 50-year-old vines. Perhaps we can call this a German-Alsatian Spätburgunder? In any case, its character is equally complex, and surprisingly integrated after 36 months in barrique. Intense nose, with aromas of pepper, juniper, wild berries, baking spice, and a hint of tobacco. Both meaty and silky on the palate, with pure fruit, elegant tannins and a cool, savory finish.

2018 Dr. Heger Ihringen Vorderer Winklerberg ($70)

A dark, brooding example of Pinot Noir from Baden with aromas of herbs and pepper, flavors of blue plum, blackberry, pomegranate, cranberry, with dark, austere tannins. Great heft, density, and structure. Be sure to open this incredibly dense wine an hour or two before drinking; with a little time, it’s magical.

2019 Salwey Henkenberg ($80)

From one of Baden’s top producers. This is full-bodied Pinot Noir, aged 12 months in oak, yet with a delicate, floral, leafy nose of spring blossoms, fresh mint, and wet grass. Terrific juicy acidity, notes of black cherry, spice, and cocoa, with soft, elegant tannins, and a serious finish. (Also difficult to find in the U.S., so I’ve linked to the importer.)

2020 Weingut Steintal Bischofsberg ($100)

From grapes grown organically in Franken, aged 18 months in neutral oak. Complex and unique, it evolves in the glass from gooseberries to apricots, fresh herbs, and violets to blueberries and blood orange and finishes long and earthy. Cool, balanced, and drinkable, this is a deep, intense, and very special Pinot Noir. (Somewhat difficult to find in the U.S., so I’ve linked to the importer.)

The Next Tier

Ortswein (aka village wines) and Erste Lage (aka “premier cru”) are where great deals on age-worthy German Pinot Noir can be found.

2020 Weingut Steintal Grossheubach Alte Reben ($37)

If we’re going to talk, ahem, “value,” well, this might be the best value in my tastings. From 20- to 40-year-old vines in Franken, it’s elegant, balanced, and velvety. Expressive, complex nose of spice, dried herbs, dried flowers, and rose; a palate bursting with fresh black cherry and blackberry; cool, stony minerality on the finish. Hard to find even though it has a U.S. importer. Retailers, take note and stock.

2017 Schnaitmann Steinwiege Pinot Noir ($35)

From one of Württemberg’s top producers, this is aged 18 months in old neutral casks and then rests in bottle several years before release. Leafy and floral on the nose, along with aromas of violets, plum, and pepper. Zesty and savory in the mouth, with flavors of cherry tomato, forest floor, cranberry, and a serious chalky finish.

2020 Ziereisen Talrain ($40)

Higher altitude Pinot Noir (grown at 500 meters elevation) from Baden. Fresh, elegant, and dense with notes of black cherry and blackberry, an underlying earthy, forest floor character, and savory, intense tannins.

2018 Friedrich Becker Schweigen Pinot Noir ($52)

Becker’s village Pinot Noir, aged 36 months in barrique. A deep, dark, and rich style—you can feel the oak, but it’s integrated. Violets, black cherry, plum, nutmeg, clove, tobacco, and a hint of forest floor. Firm tannins, good acidity, and a fresh finish.

2018 Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg Erste Lage ($52)

Erste Lage from Baden that drinks like a GG. Elegant, fresh, and precise, with subtle tannins. Nose bursting with violets, flower stem, and blood orange, with flavors of raspberry, black cherry, and tomato and a lingering hint of mint on the palate. Super delicious and drinkable.

2020 Ökonomierat Rebholz "R" ($65)

From one of Pfalz’s best producers of whites, but this is a top red for the region. Savory, earthy, with notes of cedar, evergreen, and wild raspberry. Perhaps it leans a little too “Burgundian” for its own good, but this remains a high-quality Spätburgunder. I’ve previously tasted the 2018, which might be even better.

2019 Schnaitmann Simonroth ($69)

From Württemberg. 100 percent whole cluster, aged in new and used oak. A super complex mélange of aromas: rose, sage, mint, dill, cherry, blood orange. On the palate, dark minerality, soft tannins, with notes of black cherry, cherry cola, a hint of smoke, and a juicy finish of black tea and herbs. 

2021 Bertram-Baltes Ahrweiler Forstberg ($65)

Another fascinating bottle from Ahr’s flood vintage. Light-bodied, with lots of juicy acidity and great tension. The flavors and aromas are a study in cherry: cherry, cherry cola, kirsch, with gripping but elegant tannins.

Budget ’Burgunder

Great Pinot under $30? From Germany, definitely.

2022 Ziereisen Blauer Spätburgunder ($20)

Where else can you find a gulpable Pinot Noir this good at this price? This one from Baden balances electric acidity and earthiness. Super juicy, with notes of wild berry, dried herbs, and a touch of smoke.

2021 Dautel Estate Spätburgunder ($28)

From Württemberg, aged 11 months in large, older casks. Intense, earthy, and fresh, with notes of blackberry, black cherry, and green tobacco. Excellent value that often has some of Dautel’s GG in the blend. Christian Dautel told me this about the 2020 vintage: “It’s too good for my entry level, but I don’t have anything else, so I had to bottle it.”

2019 Pfeffingen Spätburgunder Alte Reben ($25)

Another top Pfalz producer known more for its whites, but this good-value red is worth checking out. Light ruby, full-bodied, and velvety, with aromas of rose and nutmeg and flavors of kirsch, cassis—even an amaro note. Could we call this an “Italian-style” Pinot Noir?

2020 Friedrich Becker Pinot Noir ($26)

Another solid entry-level wine from Pflaz, from 20- to 45-year-old vines. Juicy and drinkable, yet with great structure. Notes of tart cherry, wild berry, tobacco, forest floor, and a nice textured finish.